My RX-7 has the same problem if it makes you feel any better. If I floor it, it's fine, but if I lightly accelerate, it will die. I tried adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw, making it run lean, and it seems to be working better. Maybe you could try this on your 83 RX-7 and see if it works? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

If his problem is the air/fuel mixture then it's not that hard to fix.Just make sure you can get it to idle steady at 800 rpm.

what is the fuel regulator? i have been looking at the wrong part. ive been looking at something totally different. gunna replace as soon as the cash flow brightens up.....god damnit this sucks...u know?

yeah i know, my 83 has no vacuum leaks, and i rebuilt the carb and it still wont run under 2k rpms



mike

Hey mike is your air/fuel mixture good?my idle on the old 12a I had was bad till I adjusted it on the carb then it idled at 1000rpm which is close enough for me.

yah, its off but theres not enough screw



mike

You might need to look at a adjustable FPR and lean out the main line.When I got mine the idle was 2500rpm that was nuts for mazda just giving it a tune up.Damn morons. :rant:

cant find a damned fuel pressure regulator on the damned cr. but check this out....ventilation and check valve......and a fuel check and cut valve. seems to be the two closest things i can come up with, i know where they are but not too sure what they do??? any ideas?

ok get this. the vent and check valve goes to numerous hoses and pipes and ****, one of which may go to the carb....one line goes from the vent check valve to thefuel tank....now the check and cut valve is located by the gas tank and has two hoses coming from it, if its by the gas tank u would assume it would have something to do w/ the fuel flow, so .....possibilities are arising.

well another ******* dead end.......but i dont think the one i got from the junk car is any good. who the **** knows though right? no one knows **** about what the **** is wrong.....where's my gun

Sounds like your headaches could have been spared with a simple sidedraft carb kit on it.The Nikki carb is good if you can get it to work properly.

yeah let me lend about a grand for repairs and upgrades buddy.

Haven't you spent about as much as buying a used aftermarket setup?It should be close to the same cost with the other carb you bought.

im just going to start over, there has to be something ive missed.

Yeah,just find a wrecked car and take some photo to make sure all the vacuum lines are going were they're supposed to.

still thinking it may be carb trouble. but i will check the vaccum again.....listen i was looking at the floats, and you know how its two arms that hold the float in place?...well on one of them the arm's bent to the side...maybe it is not moving freely?????

thats possible, mine was like that too, i think its the way we pull the top off the carb. i bent mine straight and it didnt do much, i dont think mine has carb trouble i think mine is a vacuum leak. i'm going to block off the air control valve next



mike

let me know if it works.

yup

I found on my other car (read: non-rotary), some hoses under and towards the back of the carby which had split and were pissing air all over the place. I cut where the split was and just slid the hose back on... problem solvered.

So what I'm getting at is that it happened after I was doing a service on my carby, when I pulled it off I must have caught the hoses and split them, causing my hose/vacuum problems. I would seriously recommend looking at anything and everything remotely looking like a piece of hose all around your carby and check all the connections. I know you guys have proabably already checked again and again, but at the moment, thats all I can think it would be.

I'll keep digging around and see what I can find out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

i know i dont have any external leaks, and the shutter valve is good, hows that?



mike

well im slowly but surely getting closer, it can only be a number of things.

I got a question.....when you take off the upper part of the carb, and you have the floats attached, are they supposed to be even...i mean, the same amount of movement in each float. the one has the amount you would assume would be right, i do, and the second has virtually no movement. So i guess what i am asking is, are the two floats supposed to be the same in the movement, the same range of play?

I got out my haynes manual to see if I could help to answer the question about the floats being even. The manual does not specifically say that they have to be even, but I could not see them having to be adjusted to have different ranges of motion. The manual gives very detailed instructions on how to properly adjust your floats. Maybe that will help you some. Also, if you guys don't already know, a good way to track down a vaccum leak is with the car running spray carb. cleaner on the vaccum lines. If in your spraying, the idle jumps up quickly then goes back down, you have found your vaccum leak.

ahah sounds similar to mine... still waiting for a sunny day to go check everything, though. good luck :bigthumg: car looks good :bigok:

Hey man couple of things u can check.



If you replaced your fuel pump did you also add a pressure regulator? My replacemetn fuel pump was sending too much pressure to the carb. Fuel pressure should be about 3 psi (I think).



Vacuum leaks (That rats nest is crazy) check to make sure your hoses and such are ok.



Secondary blades on carb. Make sure that diaphram has no leak and the spring is in good condition.



Or maybe your motor is low on compression and is just getting tired..

i found part of my problem, the air pump came apart and messed up the air control valve, causing a vacuum leak. also the timing is way off, some joker put the front pulley on wrong



mike

Mike: Just block the ACV off.Don't you love it when some non-rotor head works on a car and puts it together wrong????Was he a redneck? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/spam.gif



~Luis

yah i fixed the acv, i dont know about the guy who put the pulley on, it looks like the engines never been touched?



mike

Must of been the guy at the mazda production factory. I can just hear him now... "But it is my first day." https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

haha, the penalty for putting on the pulley wrong is hari kari!



mike

Mike: how's it running now?

i dunno we are saving too much day light.

update: the engine is an 81-82 block rigged to use the stock oil cooler, dizzy is now in correctly as is the pulley (i think), all i need to do is put sparkplugs in it and see what happens.



mike

Cool keep us updated on it. :bigthumg:

ok well it needs a motor, no compression on the front rotor!



mike

Idiot right here was thinking it was getting too much fuel.....no, its not getting enough, which narrows it down, a lot. And where in gods name is the damned fuel filtert, i couldnt find one when i got the car, it was no where to be found, so i said **** it and stuck on one near the firewall so i could moniter the fuel flow/content from up front. well if the filter is not clogged, because the only one it has is the one i put on, and its clear so i can see it, but what would it be...pump?...should do a pressure and volume test then right? i mean if the carb isnt getting enough fuel, the its somewhere between the carb and the tank...right?

The fuel filter is at the back of the car near the fuel tank and sits just before the fuel pump. If you get under the back of the car near the rear wheels, you'll see it tucked up in a little bracket.

Check the filter!!!!!!!BTW MIKE:If you read this CHECK YOUR PM's!!!

i responded



mike

I never got one yet??? :rant: