1981 rx7 gsl hard to start no idle and smoking engine
06-11-2011, 07:06 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Hi I am new to nopistons.com but anyway my car will start with the choke out and run horrible and it wont idle, so I checked the sparks plugs and they were all black so I cleaned them, later I brought my car to a
mechanic who knew nothing about pistons and rebuilt the carburetor but that did not help,6 months later put some gas in the tank which was low then found out it was flooded so I unflooded it got it started with alot of white spoke coming out the
the back tail pipe send out alot of white smoke , then after 3 minuted of running it I heard a big PUFF and one minute later my engine started to smoke which was also white last I shut if off cheked the temp gagea
and it said that it was not overheated. Well I don't know whats wrong with this car it sat for 12 years in a shed before I bought it and it use to work but not anymore.
mechanic who knew nothing about pistons and rebuilt the carburetor but that did not help,6 months later put some gas in the tank which was low then found out it was flooded so I unflooded it got it started with alot of white spoke coming out the
the back tail pipe send out alot of white smoke , then after 3 minuted of running it I heard a big PUFF and one minute later my engine started to smoke which was also white last I shut if off cheked the temp gagea
and it said that it was not overheated. Well I don't know whats wrong with this car it sat for 12 years in a shed before I bought it and it use to work but not anymore.
06-11-2011, 10:32 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 170
Is your car automatic? My car had almost all the same symptoms except for the rough running and it was from a valve that relieves pressure in an auto transmission. It vents to the carb and when it leaks the carb sucks up the tranny fluid. Don't remember the exact name of the valve but it's on a thread in this section. It's called 'on the verge of tears' if you want to look at it or might think it's the problem you have.
10-04-2011, 06:58 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Sorry I have not replied for a long time, I forgot about this post. And sorry for my grammar I wrote this pretty badly. I meant my mechanic knew nothing about rotary engines.
The car is a manual and my mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and I checked for vacuum leaks.
Could this be a bad coolant seal, or maybe a corner seal?
The car is a manual and my mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and I checked for vacuum leaks.
Could this be a bad coolant seal, or maybe a corner seal?
10-10-2011, 04:02 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Now I took off the spark plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil into the engine and let it sit for 24 hours.
I started it up making the biggest white cloud come out of my tailpipe. The car died a few times but after 5-10 minutes it was running a lot better and actually idled with
smoke coming out of the I think catalytic converter or exhaust manifold but after about another 10 minutes it would not idle but it did run.
So the next morning I try to start it up and I could not keep it running for a minute unless I pumped it 20 times. I also cleaned the spark plugs.
I checked through the window of the carburetor and it was empty
So I am now guessing this is a ventilation issue, Carburetor issue, or a vacuum leak I cannot find.
I started it up making the biggest white cloud come out of my tailpipe. The car died a few times but after 5-10 minutes it was running a lot better and actually idled with
smoke coming out of the I think catalytic converter or exhaust manifold but after about another 10 minutes it would not idle but it did run.
So the next morning I try to start it up and I could not keep it running for a minute unless I pumped it 20 times. I also cleaned the spark plugs.
I checked through the window of the carburetor and it was empty
So I am now guessing this is a ventilation issue, Carburetor issue, or a vacuum leak I cannot find.
10-18-2011, 02:39 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 32
it is important that you check that your fuel bowl vent solenoid is connected and functioning.
check this out too https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US
check this out too https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US
10-21-2011, 02:55 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
it is important that you check that your fuel bowl vent solenoid is connected and functioning.
check this out too https://docs.google....VkMjZl&hl=en_US
check this out too https://docs.google....VkMjZl&hl=en_US
If it is I do hear it clicking every time I turn on the key.
10-25-2011, 02:29 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 32
check out this doc https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US
it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.
also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.
it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.
also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.
10-26-2011, 03:25 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 32
yes it is. sorry i did not answer your question in my last post.
10-26-2011, 05:16 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
http://intertron.com...es/carb/c13.jpg
yes it is. sorry i did not answer your question in my last post.
yes it is. sorry i did not answer your question in my last post.
check out this doc https://docs.google....VkMjZl&hl=en_US
it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.
also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.
it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.
also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.
Maybe I could adjust it but I don't know what to do even when I look on sterlings site I can't find the things I must adjust even when looking at the carb manual also I dont have a tachometer to help adjust the carb.
