I would start out checking your vacuum lines. A backfire will make that pop and either pop off vacuum lines or break them, especially after sitting in a barn that long

Is your car automatic? My car had almost all the same symptoms except for the rough running and it was from a valve that relieves pressure in an auto transmission. It vents to the carb and when it leaks the carb sucks up the tranny fluid. Don't remember the exact name of the valve but it's on a thread in this section. It's called 'on the verge of tears' if you want to look at it or might think it's the problem you have.

Sorry I have not replied for a long time, I forgot about this post. And sorry for my grammar I wrote this pretty badly. I meant my mechanic knew nothing about rotary engines.



The car is a manual and my mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and I checked for vacuum leaks.



Could this be a bad coolant seal, or maybe a corner seal?

Now I took off the spark plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil into the engine and let it sit for 24 hours.



I started it up making the biggest white cloud come out of my tailpipe. The car died a few times but after 5-10 minutes it was running a lot better and actually idled with



smoke coming out of the I think catalytic converter or exhaust manifold but after about another 10 minutes it would not idle but it did run.



So the next morning I try to start it up and I could not keep it running for a minute unless I pumped it 20 times. I also cleaned the spark plugs.



I checked through the window of the carburetor and it was empty



So I am now guessing this is a ventilation issue, Carburetor issue, or a vacuum leak I cannot find.

it is important that you check that your fuel bowl vent solenoid is connected and functioning.



check this out too https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US

Is the fuel bowl vent solenoid the same thing as a air vent solenoid?



If it is I do hear it clicking every time I turn on the key.

check out this doc https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US



it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.



also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.

http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c13.jpg

yes it is. sorry i did not answer your question in my last post.

If it was rebuilt right do you know of any other problems it might have? My mechanic did not know how to adjust the carburetor could it just be a wrong adjustment(s)?

Maybe I could adjust it but I don't know what to do even when I look on sterlings site I can't find the things I must adjust even when looking at the carb manual also I dont have a tachometer to help adjust the carb.

perhaps you can try adjusting the idle speed and mixture screws as referenced in the jpg image i linked in my post above. turning the mixture screw in (clockwise) will lean the mixture and the opposite direction will richen the mixture at idle. turning the idle speed screw in will increase the idle speed. if you cannot get your engine to idle below 1000 rpms you have a vacuum leak. places vacuum leaks can arise at:

- Engine-to-manifold gasket

- Air Control Valve or ACV Block-off plate

- Vacuum source for Anti Afterburn Valve

- Vacuum source for vac brake booster

- Big black vac nipple (capped stock) near where shutter valve was

- Shutter valve or its associated vac holes

- Manifold-to-spacer

- Vacuum nipples on spacer

- Spacer to carb

- Vac ports on carb (should be 2-3 on either side I believe, plus extras at the top by the alt compon late models)

another thing that comes to mind besides focusing on the carb is the basics since you mentioned the car sat for 12 years.



the basics include fuel, compression, spark. are you getting spark in your ignition system? do you have good compression? is there fuel flowing adequately?



easy way to test compression is to pull out lower spark plugs on each housing and disconnect fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. if you hear three even "woosh" sounds then its most likely ok. if you hear a woosh woosh pause woosh woosh pause then you may have some stuck or bad seals. there are various methods to try to see if you can resolve them by pouring some marvel mystery oil or seafoam into the housings and rotate the engine by hand and let the fluid sit for a few days.

I did do this before in a previous post on Oct. 10 here is what I said



I started it up making the biggest white cloud come out of my tailpipe. The car died a few times but after 5-10 minutes it was running a lot better and actually idled with smoke coming out of the I think catalytic converter or exhaust manifold but after about another 10 minutes it would not idle but it did run. But the next day I was back to square one. It did not want to run and I was lucky if I could keep it alive 30 secs.



If I did this marvel mystery oil thing again but let it sit longer do you think that would help?



Also there are three good even whooshes coming from the engine.



One last thing in a different post of this someone told me to disconnect the fuel line that goes to the Carburetor and put the line in a bottle to see if there was any fuel flow and there was.



I guess I could try turning the screws. And see what happens.



Thanks for helping me so far https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png