hello all...



As my car is pushing 150k with the original suspension, I am planning on replacing the whole thing. I want to increase stiffness and maybe drop it slightly, but not go overboard as its a daily driver (for now). Would anybody recommend a suspension package or a list of parts to go with? I definitely want adjustable shocks to increase stiffness later on, but I don't think coilovers are necessary. The eventual goal is to make it into a 911turbo-killing street car without killing drivability (very modest). I'd like to spend about 2k max for the whole deal if possible. thanks! -billy

poly bushings

KYB AGX

Eibach springs

At 150K you should probably replace the ball joints too.

You could probably do all this for less than a grand.

Good luck

Thanks for the advice. Mine is a 3rd gen though, and I wasnt able to find KYB AGX shocks for it...any other recommendations for a 3rd gen?



Thanks, Billy



[quote name='Travis R' date='Apr 22 2005, 10:36 AM']poly bushings

KYB AGX

Eibach springs

At 150K you should probably replace the ball joints too.

You could probably do all this for less than a grand.

Good luck


[/quote]

With $2000 you don't need to rule out coilovers, the Buddy Club or new Apex'I fit in there and still leave room to replace bushings and spherical joints.

do you want to go fast or do you want a stiff suspension?



the two correlate less than most think. of course anyone in the business of selling speed parts would have you believe you need to replace everything on your car.



the fd is a one of a kind streetcar because it has a genuine racecar suspension. yes it needs some help in certain areas. the key is understanding where to spend the money.



and it is here you may be pleasantly surprised..



the fd OEM spring rate is 263 front and 195 rear. much higher rate springs do not necessarily make the car faster. they make it appear livelier as you feel every bump. yes, stiffer springs decrease bodyroll to a degree but they do NOT change lateral weight transfer, only the speed at which it transfers... so they make the car less communicative. therefore less able to be driven at the limit.



i run 432 front and 378 rear and consider that to be the optimum spring rate for aggressive street and track driving. the tein flex coilovers have the highest acceptable rate at 566/422.



i recommend the Eibach Pro Kit springs, around $200. the rate is up 33% from stock at 350/255. they have the perfect drop, around 1.25 inches and will transform your car ride-wise. you can hang it right out on the edge w these springs and considering the fd's potential that's real fast.



you mentioned stiffening up your car w adj shocks. you don't stiffen up your car w shocks.. you do it w springs and you control the springs w the shocks. i have owned a digital spring checker and a shock dyno and i have tested all kinds of shocks/springs. i recommend for 95% of fd owners the Eibach springs and the stock shocks which are excellent.



do yourself a favor and put the springs on and drive the car. you will be amazed and probably conclude you don't need shocks.



bushings are a key item w the fd.

there are only 2 sets of bushings that should be replaced w upgrades.



in the rear:



the big fat rubber bushing in the front of the lower longitudinal link absorbs all braking and acceleration. if it deflects your tire toes in and out. very bad. replace it w Rotary Extremes rod end product, or as i did by having nylon bushing made and keep the cool aluminum link.



the other bushings to be upgraded are the differential bushings. again, big fat rubber and they secure the rear end! if you put a jack under the diff you will note the jack moves the diff up an inch before the car moves. bad deal. nylon replacements needed.



the above bushings carry almost no vertical vehicle load so there will be virtually no increase in NVH w their upgrade.



rear toe link is spherical bushed w a very small cushion so unless the bushings are bad no need to replace nor any performance upgrade.



there are a few "pillowball" spherical bushings in the rear suspension that need to be routinely replaced... it is the cost of a racing suspension.



combine the above w air pressure set at 30 psi front 27-28 rear set cold, 1.2 degrees of negative camber front and rear, less than an 1/8th inch toe in front and rear and zero rear thrust angle and go wipe out just about every car you find.



howard coleman

If you really want a killer street car, he's right, stiffer is not faster. As a matter of fact, the only reason to go stiffer is if you're hitting the bump stops during hard cornering on flat surfaces. Body roll actually promotes traction. Softer springs also make it possible to compensate for over/understeer with throttle. The reason that track cars are so stiff is simply because their lower than low ride height requires it. Softest without bottoming is fastest.



Regarding dampers, adjustable is pimp. I like a car that is undersprung and overdamped. It's nice to be able to play with my settings, but without the right springs, ride height, and corner balance, it'll never make a difference.

I definetley reccommend the widefoot racing front anti roll bar mounts as well.....