not even that hard!



Take your tire/rim off, remove your brake caliper (1 or 2 bolts, I think), then just remove 2 screws that are holding your rotor onto the lug studs. Pull it off, take it to shop. It looks soooo much nicer! Went from rusty, grooved streaks to a mirror shine, for $18 a piece at my local machine shop.



Or were you talking about the DTSS bushings? If so, see this thread.

Turning your rotars is to take of scratches warps etc. you don't turn them unless you need too...it weakens them...also your rotar have to be a certain width (thickness)to be safe, effective, and not crack or warp...hope this helps + eightteen is kinda high to turn rotars, I get a set done for 10-15....your getting JACKED

just to clear something up, if your rotors are "warped" like someone mentioned... turning them wont do jack ****.



i'd reccommend turning/cutting the rotors with every other brake pad change... unless you do some sick damage to them, or notice a lack in braking performance.



When you cut rotors you dont remove much it's really just to make a smooth flat contact area so when you put new pads on there wont be any shaking or vibrations due to previous mars in the rotor surface meeting with the new flat surface of the brake pads.



kevin.

You are a mess dude, there are 3 reasons to cut rotors.



1. to give a fresh even surface for your new brake pads

2. to remove any grooves caused by stones/debris getting trapped between pad and rotor

3. to cure brake vibration(WARPED ROTORS)





The key to a "good brake job" is to cut the rotors to eliminate any or all of the above 3, and to use new pads. I do this **** all day long, I know what I'm talking about.



Can you just slap on pads without cutting the rotors? Sure but the car will not stop as well, and may also cause your brand new pads to squeek like a bitch.



Can you use old pads with new rotors? You can, but same consequneces as above. Not to mention that while rotor's get glazed from the heat, so do the pads.

Do the job once, do it right, and feel comforatable knowing that the car WILL stop when you need to.

You are a mess dude, there are 3 reasons to cut rotors.



1. to give a fresh even surface for your new brake pads

2. to remove any grooves caused by stones/debris getting trapped between pad and rotor

3. to cure brake vibration(WARPED ROTORS)





The key to a "good brake job" is to cut the rotors to eliminate any or all of the above 3, and to use new pads. I do this **** all day long, I know what I'm talking about.



Can you just slap on pads without cutting the rotors? Sure but the car will not stop as well, and may also cause your brand new pads to squeek like a bitch.



Can you use old pads with new rotors? You can, but same consequneces as above. Not to mention that while rotor's get glazed from the heat, so do the pads.

Do the job once, do it right, and feel comforatable knowing that the car WILL stop when you need to. [/quote]

i ask you to define warped rotors.



most are just uneven runout, uneven wear patterns etc. I should find that article for you where a race pit team says they've never seen warped rotors, only problematic rotors.



now if you happen to get warped rotors, REAL warped rotors not just uneven wearing rotors, that means the flat plain of the rotors (look at it from top down) has been disconfigured into a diagonal direction...THIS IS INCURABLE EXCEPT BY REPLACEMENT.



Now you list 3 things, #1 i said in my post, #2 is basically the same as #1, and brake vibration is generally caused by #2.



so all you did was restate what i said but somehow try to make me look incorrect.



so in reply, YOU sir are a mess. Oh and i DARE you to show me a picture of warped rotors that you've EVER dealt with.



kevin.

You are a mess dude, there are 3 reasons to cut rotors.



1. to give a fresh even surface for your new brake pads

2. to remove any grooves caused by stones/debris getting trapped between pad and rotor

3. to cure brake vibration(WARPED ROTORS)





The key to a "good brake job" is to cut the rotors to eliminate any or all of the above 3, and to use new pads. I do this **** all day long, I know what I'm talking about.



Can you just slap on pads without cutting the rotors? Sure but the car will not stop as well, and may also cause your brand new pads to squeek like a bitch.



Can you use old pads with new rotors? You can, but same consequneces as above. Not to mention that while rotor's get glazed from the heat, so do the pads.

Do the job once, do it right, and feel comforatable knowing that the car WILL stop when you need to. [/quote]

if you do this **** all day long you should know by now that you've never seen warped rotors, you've just seen rotors with uneven deposits of pad material and uneven wear.





I believe the article teknics is referring to is here:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

You are a mess dude, there are 3 reasons to cut rotors.



1. to give a fresh even surface for your new brake pads

2. to remove any grooves caused by stones/debris getting trapped between pad and rotor

3. to cure brake vibration(WARPED ROTORS)





The key to a "good brake job" is to cut the rotors to eliminate any or all of the above 3, and to use new pads. I do this **** all day long, I know what I'm talking about.



Can you just slap on pads without cutting the rotors? Sure but the car will not stop as well, and may also cause your brand new pads to squeek like a bitch.



Can you use old pads with new rotors? You can, but same consequneces as above. Not to mention that while rotor's get glazed from the heat, so do the pads.

Do the job once, do it right, and feel comforatable knowing that the car WILL stop when you need to. [/quote]

if you do this **** all day long you should know by now that you've never seen warped rotors, you've just seen rotors with uneven deposits of pad material and uneven wear.





I believe the article teknics is referring to is here:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm [/quote]

and i thank you good sir named pengaru.



kevin.

OK you can try and say what you want, put a rotor on a lathe, as it turns, if the cutting tip only contacts 1/2 the surface area as it makes it's sweep, the ******* thing is warped. A few passes will clear it up, as long as the rotor is still in spec after you are finished.



Uneven wear is when the thickness of the rotor changes as you go from the outer edge of the rotor towards the center using a micrometer.



You want to try and be all high tech, and a internet guru, thats fine, but in the real world, the way I state it is how it is.

My reccomendations I stated previously are pure automotive fact.



I dare you to find one garage/dealership/ or any type of repair facility that will tell you different.

Go somewhere and tell them you have a bad vibration in the brake pedal when you brake, espescially at higher speeds, 10 out of 10 mechanics will say your rotors are warped. I'll bet any amount of money on it.



Oh and since I'm on the topic, try this... get your brake rotors really hot by doing some hight speed stops, then drive through some water. Guess what??? The rapid cooling of the rotors can cause them to.... warp, thats right warp. Maybe it's not the correct rocket scientist terminolgy, but facts are facts, and working in the real automotive world is alot different then reading about it!

oh and about your statement that I said everything you did and made it seem like you were wrong., Well you say to only cut the rotors every other brake job, then you go on to say that you cut rotors to eliminate noise and vibration, and have a good mating surface. So that right there is stupid. Why would you want those conditions only every second brake job? Would'nt you want your brakes to perform the same EVERY brake job??



I'm not saying you HAVE to do it, I'm telling you it is how you are SUPPOSED to do it.



Oh and not to throw my weight around but my being a ASE master tech for over 10 years, and running a successful buisness may put some serious proof behind my words

Just because something has been generally accepted by the industry does not make it correct.



I don't think this has anything to do with being an internet guru, high tech, or how it is in the real world. All we're pointing out is what should be an interesting fact about brakes that appears to be little-known.



Turning rotors on a lathe works, it's a fact, I don't argue this. It's simply not because the rotor is warped. There is excessive runout, yes. I do not think this is caused by the rotor being warped by heat though, sorry. Does heat play a role? Sure. But pad material depositing into the surface of a hot rotor does not constitute rotor warping in my opinion.