i really want to build my gslse up. im planning to strip it all down and basically have an engine, wheels, and seats. i know i need a lot more than that but you know what i mean. my goal for the car will be to have the same power to weight as the 405hp z06, no real reason for choosing that car, just think its a good goal. basically this will be what i need. 299hp at 2300 lbs or about 260 at 2000 lbs. here are the questions:



can i get the car to 2000 lbs? no ac, no carpet, racing seats, aluminum dash, blah blah blah. maybe lexan?



can i make 260hp on an NA motor? i would like to stay FI. i dont want to go turbo bc i want the car to be reliable and i havent really seen a reliable turbo rotary.





p.s. does anyone make lightweight body parts for the fb?





thanks





oh yeah, needs to stay street legal

 

ok gotta change the numbers. i was going by claimed hp and not rwhp dyno results. the most im seeing out of the 405hp cars is 360rwhp. this means i need to make about 230hp at the wheels for 2k lbs or 265 at 2300 lbs



sorry

 

Wow, this could be a long response. First let me ask if you are serious? Do you have the cash flow? How much time are you working with? How much money? Do you have a DD? If you answer all the questions correct, here are a few basics.



1. 2000lbs is tough... close to 2000 is still tough but from what I hear you are pretty much running with a shell. How much comfort do you want? I used to have a site for fiberglass parts that were made for the first gen. Be careful with those. They are typically suited for race cars. I am not sure what thickness the FG is and might not be suitable for street use. Does not mean that I would not use them though

2. Remember that a rotary will rev out more than a typical v8. I am not saying that it is better but it gives you a little more RPM to work with. This being said I have seen 400rwhp 3rd gens take new z06's in the quarter. The light weight attribute of the rx7 really helps.

3. In order to get 400rwhp you will need a large turbo. There is almost no way that you can get around the turbo unless you want to run a 4 rotor or maybe a built 3 rotor. Turbo is not a bad option but now you are looking of the added system and cost and sometimes reliability. In order to achieve 260(I assume whp) in NA format you will need a 3 rotor.

4. As for cost look at around 7k... I think that should be a safe estimat for 300rwhp or so...



I hope that gets you started.

David

 

I firmly believe that a turbo rotary-properly tuned of course-is going to be MORE reliable than a ported-out-the-wazoo n/a. Period.

 

well theres 2 ways to skin the cat.



1. is strip everything, build a high hp na motor, and live with basically a race car on the street. this is what i'm doing shortly, figure 2200lbs, i'm going to run a stock engine and then swtich to the 270hp PP 12a a bit later. 270hp flywheel and 2200lbs. it should be loud, no heater, but fun. i'm keeping the body stock, but i do have lexan windows for it



2. a stock t2 engine will make about 220rwhp with an open exhaust, stock -SE is about 2500lbs, put a larger turbo on it, good ic and ecu and it should make 300ish rwhp @10psi and run forever. plus you can keep the ac/ps/interior etc etc. you could also loose some of that, and take some weight off the car.

 

Agreed, gotta have something for those seals to run on

 

yeah, after i made this post i had a thought. at the power level i need a turbo motor will be reliable. nothing too crazy, no high boost. j9 im thinking the same thing, loud, no heater, etc... i wont be driving it everyday so it doesnt matter. for now its just sitting in the driveway, and im really tempted to start stripping it. my only conflict is that i like having a backup incase the fc doesnt want to run one day.



has anyone done the fc to fb front subframe swap? this is what i am planning to do in order to get 5 lug up front and larger brakes. this will also give me fc motor mounts. also, i think it will be easier to find an fc manual steering rack

 

click on re speed up top there, they have a 5 lug kit

 

I have done the FB to FC subframe swap. It is not too bad to do, The down fall to it is that it moves the front end forward about 1.5 inches, You can tell that the wheel is not centered in the wheel well. The other part that makes it kinda tough is building your steering, and you dont have to run a manual rack just depwer the FC rack if it is power, they have less turns lock to lock.

 

shane, send me a pm if you want a hand with anything. im free saturday and sundays and the sr runs now so im not going to be wasting any more free time on that thing.



ive got some engine options for you as well. ill give you a call about that later.