I'm afraid to say my opinion cause Dragqueen will yell at me again, but....



I was using the windshield washer methanol and water. about 50/50, maybe 60 water to 40 meth. Anyway, I noticed that the opening to the manifold (where the cute little butterfly is) had some white spots. It almost looked like lime deposits? I have a fear that methanol corrodes aluminum and rubber and things. I am using 100 pct water now. On days I go to the track I'll either use all water or use some iso.



BTW...when you put fuel additive that keeps it from freezing in the winter, most of the time its methanol. I would guess that in a big 17 gallon tank, putting a little methanol will not corrode anything, but I doubt it would give you any benefit either.



Just my two cents. Let me say for the record that its just my opinion, the little white deposits/corrosion could have been caused by little aliens and I'm not starting a cruisade against methanol. Infact I recommend it. Use it!! its great !!!!!



Ok, I need take some drugs, be back later.

MeOH will attack rubber O rings etc , be careful !!!.

I have one question for Zerobanger. You said you chose wi because you were stuck in traffic, bumper to bumper traffic, one day and it was 100+ degrees right. How would wi help you at all in that situation. If it comes on at 8psi and you are barely moving 5mph how would it lower your temps. That's where your engine might start getting pissed that it has no intercooler if you went that route.



- Hand

As for removal of your IC when using H2O inject. , don't , thats a bad idea . I run the AQUAMIST system 2D together with my custom FMIC and they work very well together , other things to consider are ,

1 . When my engine is idling the turbo is spinning and "boosting" somewhat , the inlet to the IC is always hot and the outlet cold , where would this hot air go if there was no IC?.

2 . I don't inject all of the time , I have mine set up to start at about 12psi , don't our cars use an IC for 10 psi boost when stock?, why differ? , What do you think would happen before injection starts ? , you would also use a lot of water if you have to start injection very early requiring you to carry around a larger heavier tank among other things. Too early injection can also have an adverse effect on turbo spool and overall engine performance?

3. Why not let the IC do its job ?, if the IC "pre-cools" the charge then the WI will do a better job and allow even lower intake temps. , if you think about it the time available for all of this to take place is very small (air moves through an engine PRETTY FAST ) , the more cooling the better , You would also have to again use moor water to get the same change in temperature necessitating a larger HEAVIER water tank , more (larger ) jets and even multiple pumps.Richard lamb at AQUAMIST has recommended a dual pump set up for me and I still have my FMIC !!.

4. don't expect any noticable improvement in boost response / lag time if you remove your IC ( unless it was GROSSLY inadequate to begin with) , most likely it may be just a few RPM,s .In fact it can deteriorate as your engine would be ingesting HOT air before the WI comes on , and as we all know , A cooler charge makes more power 'cause there is more O2 present , the ECU would also limit your ignition advance.Remember you have to go past say 2psi @ 3500RPM before you get to you injection point of 15psi @ 6000RPM .

5 . WI systems do fail or become in operable or even run out of water (as has happened to me) , in such a case you would have no protection.

methanol mixed in the gas will lean out your a/f ratio and you'd have to tune specificly for it. If they sold Methanol here in Japan (unfortunatly they don't) I'd probably put in a 4-5 gallon fuel cell and run a seperate fuel system to feed a 1000cc sub injector in the intake pipe with a AIC or Rebic sub injector controler. Back in the mid 80's when we ran methonal in our IMCA Modified class dirt track car running at 13.5:1 compression threw a modified Holly 4 barrel carb the intake manifold would form about 1/8" of ice on it by the end of a race. Very cool stuff.. Makes pretty blue flamage as well..

water injection does not lower your temps when your in bumper to bumper, but as soon as I hit boost, even if my intake temps are 85C (based on the sensor) the are going into the engine is much much cooler because of the water.



I have alot of web pages that did tests with turbo M3's and other cars. They did dyno runs back to back with the WI on and with it off. Also they did drag strip runs. They showed no heatsoak with the WI on.



So in otherwords, heat soak exists in terms of what the gauges show, but its not relevant because the air is much colder when it gets into the engine, regardless of what the stupid sensor said.



Also, the intercooler does nothing when sitting in bumper to bumper traffic either. Infact the IC takes a long time to cool down from heatsoak from that situation.

If that's the case, then my air intake temps are "magical" since I never see over 47 in bumper/bumper traffic. When I had my SMIC, it would SOAR to 70+ no problem.

lol

under the same conditions my car was under, a FMIC car would show the same heatsoak. its the sensor under the manifold that gets heatsoaked. Yes i know the smic will be heatsoaked too and take longer to cool down than the FMIC. Im talking about the sensor.

but if your intake temp are always cooler from the intercooler doing it's job then the intake manifold won't heat soak as bad and the sensor will not be affected as much by that heat soak. If your intercooler is in the engine compartment then your pretty much screwed and it's going to heat soak to hell and back, but if you have a good front mount it will do its job even when sitting in traffic or idling in a parking lot. Like I said earlier on, let you car heat soak and feel the in and out end tanks you'll notice a huge difference in temp.