I just finished installing a new motor in my fd and put it all back together. I built the motor myself and installed it with little help or supervision. I used a generous amount of assembly lube. I turned the car over with the egi fuse out to get oil circulating before I started it. When I try to start it the motor cranks and almost sputters with a steady rythm. Its almost as it speeds up a bit as it cranks then slows down and repeats steadily. I pulled the spark plugs out one rotor at a time and cranked it. All the pulses sounded smooth and uniform and it seamed to have compression. The car is getting fuel, as the plugs were soaked. I grounded the f/p pin in the diagnostics box and the fuel pump ran. I also pulled a spark plug wire and made sure it was getting spark. I unflooded it and put in a little bit of atf. I also swapped the 10.5 race plugs for 9s all the way around. After attempting to start it for a while a slight amount of smoke can be seen from the tailpipe. It also made a small pop once. The motor has a large street port that I did myself, using another motor that my friend built as a reference. I made templates of that port so they are very similar in size and shape. Seals are stock Mazda 2mm. The car has a gt 35/40 single turbo, full exahaust, and power fc. Injectors are 550/1680. It has a GM 3 bar map sensor. Fuel pump is a Cosmo pump. I am running an SX fuel pressure regulator. It has a vacuum line that I ran to the back of the intake manifold and a fuel hose that I ran to the back most hard metal fuel line under the throttle body closes to the firewall. The fuel hose comming from the back of the car with the yellow dot is hooked up to the center hard fuel line. the last one is hooked up to the front most line. I haven't adjusted the regulator since I last had the car dyno tuned. I'm not sure what to do. I looked over the car but couldn't find anything obvious. Its been over 4 months since I took the car apart and I moved 1600 miles. I did my best to keep stuff organized but it took forever for me to find everything and remember how it went together.

Some things to note:

1. The harness is a mess. Not in bad physical shape and not too brittle, but the previous mechanic who worked on the car wrapped all the no longer used conectors with electrical tape.

2. The connector to the fan thermoswitch located under the water temp sensor on the back of the coolant neck is missing. I couldn't even find a wire for it. I assume my previous mechanic eliminated it. Is it needed with the pfc?

3.I routed the harness slightly wrong and the knock sensor wire didn't reach. I cut it at the harness side and extended it. I didn't see a problem with it and didn't feel like taking all the crap off the top of the motor to get to it. As far as I know, the stock knock sensor is useless anyway.

4.The pfc shows a -25 degree leading ignition at rest with the car off but key in the on position. I don't know if it means anything.

5. The water and intake air temperatures are very close to each other, maybe 1 degree difference. I assume this is because the motor has not been running and nothing is warmed up.

6. I changed the fuel filter. I used a replacement from O'Reily. Seamed to have no restriction when i blew into it. Again, I am not too concerned about this because the motor is getting fuel.

7. The gas in the tank is about 1/4 full and is Sunoco GT 100 unleaded. Its been in there since January. I had the access cover off to test the fuel pump since then. I only slightly bolted it down but it wasn't sealed completely. Could the gas be so bad that the car wouldn't start?

8. Should there be another fuel hose going to the fuel pressure regulator? perhaps one of my friends turned it shut when helping me pull the motor?

9. The radiator fans run all the time when the ignition is on. This was a problem I had before the motor blew and I think it is unrelated. I assume its either a relay or I have something grounded. I disconnected them for the time being so I could try and start it without the fans killing the battery.



This is all I can think of now. Any help would be appreciated. I need to get my car back on the road.

your fan running is because your coolant temp sensor is missing, its a saftey thing such that if the sensor fails the fan comes on. Once you disconnect the sensor the fan is always on. I've found that 4 or 5 months is long enough for a tank of gas to go south so you might want to top that off with some race gas or at least some more 100 octane. I'm not very well versed with fds but i hope that helps a bit. Have you tried any (gasp!) starting fluid in the plug holes? Its not good for the engine, but a little to get it cranked over shouldn't hurt anything at this stage. Good luck.

if it was an fc id say it was flooded. i still think it might be flooded



mike

ihor, race gas goes bad when exposed to environment and heat after a certain amount of time, try getting new gas.

that is the same thing jay's car did. new rotaries are hard to start! i had to unflood then give it gas when i cranked then it fired right up!

yeah you should fly vosko out there. turns out he has the magic touch



mike

Ihor I replied to your email on the list. Check out what I suggested, and let me know what happens..

Oh yeah and WELCOME TO MY HELL CLUB!!!!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif