Hey guys. I need to let her breath and the stock front end isn't going to cut it. Now I know its a CYM and some people say its bastardizing it, but the color doesn't mean a thing to me. So, what front end do you guys think I should get that is functional (for drag racing), looks good, but not too over the top?

TIA,

Ernie

i was gonna put the knightsports front on my cym back in the day.

The feed front looks good and it looks as if its functional. Here is a pic of one that came by for a dyno day recently, its also yellow. No it didn't dyno.

Just scroll down and you'll see it....

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1108704

Dont get the feed ernie! I have it, with about 500 other FD owners. I wish i didnt buy it, its getting played out badly.



I say take a sawsall to the front bumper and hood!



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...CODE=12&CID=240



I like panspeed the best.

I guess you don't feel like doing another GTC?

I would, but you can't get the original GTC like I had. (atleast that Im aware of)

I don't like the panspeed. I do like the Feed and CWest, but I know both have saturated the market.

I like the 99 spec w/out the plate holder and the PFS nose or who ever he got the design from. PFS nose is great for draging and real close to the stock look.



So when are you going to do some shake down runs?

the PFS is an old knightsports front..

I thought it was eribuni.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

99 spec front



but your turbo is such a vortex that the front end is the limiting factor? I've seen the photo's...but DAYEM!!

http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/aerokiti...emenu.asp?cat=6



it does look really good. needs some 99 specs tho!

I do like the '99spec w/ out the tag, but the opening for the FMIC is small. And the track is closed by me so I don't see any racing happening till spring. I have to get a cage anyhow.

Damn, I do like the Panspeed GT2000 front end. Looks tight. Havn't really seen anyone w/ it either.

Its only about a 6 1/2" mouth on the 99spec. I'm going to make the best of it. Is that 3row still on that car Ernie?

the ings seems to have a big opening.



kevin.

i have the 99 spec bumper with a greddy 3 row. If you like to see it just pm me an email address.

Yes, it has the Greddy 3 row. And for now I'm keeping the A/C and power steering too. That way nobody can say its not a streetcar.... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

Yeah, that red car on taka haria is sweet, minus the front fenders...

http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/cwest/rx7_7.jpg

C-west front bumper



http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/border/802_1.jpg

Border Type II FRP front bumper



http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/kn...rts/fd3s_4.jpg

Knight Sport Front TypeII



http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/ksauto/839_0.jpg

I really think this KS Auto Front nose kdi is 100% bad ass

Ernie

i recently posted the following on the other forum but thought it did address your thread to a degree... if you are primarily a drag racer too large a nose will cost you both et and mph... IMO, there's nothing wrong w a fmic but my suggestion, backed up by the following post, would be to attempt to minimize the front nose as to openings and frontal are...







Aerodynamics is a legitimate and very significant factor as to fd performance. And here again we see the high relative value in the fd design.



Mazda spent huge amounts of resources sculpting the fd’s aerodynamics in recognition of aerodynamic’s importance as to determining vehicle performance. Mazda pushed to the edges the envelope by, for instance, shrinking the cockpit to the point of almost being claustrophobic… all to lower the frontal area and drag coefficient.



Mazda placed significant emphasis on the nose of the fd, making it as small as possible with as little cooling openings as possible.



All because of the great cost of aerodrag. Everything in the top speed formula is constant for a given vehicle ( drag coefficient, frontal area and the divisor) except for MPH.



MPH is cubed!



That means that it takes EIGHT times as much power to go 200 mph as it does 100 mph.



It takes 3.3 times as much power to run 150 mph vs 100 mph.



Above 85 mph aero is king.



It is the excess power above what is needed to drive the fd at, say, 100 mph, that is available for acceleration.



So even if you are not a Bonneville participant, if you drag race for example, aerodynamics is important as the slicker your car the more power is available to accelerate.



Which brings me to ask….



Do you want to look fast or go fast?



The “tuner” front ends for the fd are for looking fast, they have all the aerodynamics of a Hummer. Slap one of those on your car and you can just kiss all of mazda’s aero investment goodby.



If mazda’s well designed R1 aero package swaps away some aero slickness for a bit of downforce w just a splitter and a smallish rear wing in a low pressure area what do you think the huge tuner front end does to the car. The R1 package increases aero drag by 6.9% requiring 6.9% more hp to accelerate even w the non R1.



My bet is that the front ends pictured in post #29 add 15% more drag due to increased frontal area and god-awful drag coefficient.



So here’s my take:



Aero factors are more important than most realize. The stock front end is a thing of beauty engineering-wise…. compact with just enough power robbing ducts to provide cooling. I run it w the R1 splitter and no wing at 25 inches ( low is fast aerowise) of ride height front and rear measured at the wheelwells.



I routinely track my car at Brainerd Int’l which has a 6000 foot straight leading to a banked wide radiused turn which I run 165 mph thru and my car is very well composed. I could run through it a bit faster but I track on Toyo Proxes street tires so elect to leave something on the table.



BTW, 7Langit, I like your mods… front splitter, relocated battery ( I run 52% rear-weight), the Pettit/ASP large IC (super efficient and better aero and weight distribution than fmic), getting rid of the bose weight….



Also above, there were numerous posts about low…. Low is fast both for straight-line speed and cornering as the only 2 factors primarily effecting fd lateral weight transfer is center of gravity and track width.



howard coleman

Veilside GT2 I lke a lot but it doesnt like the sinking roads of LA.

Howard,

very interesting reading and I am sure you right. Still I think the FD front was made for the 250hp and not 450hp and the accompaning cooling and air requirements. Even in stock form (granted a lot had to do witht he cat and piping) we could use more cooling air. We like our cars fast but also hold up.



Ernie,

As for a front end, I have the wise bumper and like that a lot.

Especially if your at the 700hp mark... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

i would have to agree with howard on this one, oem is the best

I'd also say OEM is the best for Aero. As for cooling, in reality the oem is going to be fine because there is not ONE fmic that the core can flow more than the opening of the bumper. The problem is that fmic's are mounted right up agaist the opening where it cuts off the core's edges and it cant be ducted to cover the entire ic core.



What you should do is run the stock nose with a V mount thats ducted so that the entire core gets flow.



Stephen

V-mount core is too small. I'll probably get the '99 replica w/ out the liscense plate from Rotary Extreme. Thats seems to be the cleanest look. Im also going ot get the Feed rear spoiler with the carbon fiber insert. No sideskirts. Don't want to go too "over the top".

Ernie,



I use a HKS FMIC in a custom Vmount setup with the GTC nose. My cooiling temps are PHENOMINAL running on roadcourses in 100*+ heat.



Just something to think about.......

Thats good, but for drag racing, the Greddy 3 row is going to be the best choice.

How big is the Greddy 3 row core? I'm doing a custom V mount thats about 21x13x3.5, is the greddy much bigger than that? Thats 273" of surface area and 955 total cubic inches.

Ok, I've found the front end Im going to get. Check it out.

Ernie, do yourself a favor and go air to water. I convreted my apex fmic to

air to water and saw 60F on a 100F day. That was initial and it topped out

at 80f according to my haltech on a 4th gear pull. That is compared to

the 120- 130 temps air to air. I don't care how big of a nose you get,

you can't come close to that even with co2 or n2o spray bullshit. Regards.

Trust me, I'd love too, but they arn't legal in the street class or I'd be all over it.

id stick to this ernie..

the differences in opening in comparison with others wont provide a substantial difference in temp gain imho..

God I hope that your joking. Stick with the GTC or the RE 99 replica.

The FD is a good looking car because it's so clean, smooth, and sleak. I hate seing people muck it up with bumpers that dont match the cars smooth lines at all. That said i would go with either the Vertex kit, as seen on Apexi's white drift FD, or an oldschool mazdaspeed kit if you can find one.



http://www.roadnspeed.com/webpm/board/file...D_apex-fd3s.jpg



http://www.oneshot.jp/customers/mazda/e/2.jpg

You must have been running ice in your water. If you werent running ice please explain how the water was able to pull the temps down below ambient.



What size heat exchanger are you running?

Sorry it took so long to reply. Yes, I ran ice. I have a 5 gallon fuel cell in back,

a rv pump. Heat exchanger is a b&m plumbed in after the intercooler so the

heated water is cooled before return. It also won't heat up the ice water that

way. I am testing the pwr 6x10 barrell soon and will post results. I doubt

it will be as good as the apex- not as big, but alot less weight and is really

reduces pipe length. It looks wicked, hope it works well. Anything under

100f will be ok with me. To answer question, the b&m is about 8x10x1.