OK, since the search feature is not working and I am just about ready to make my single turbo order. I have a few quick questions.



1. Do I need to have a seperate boost controller for my turbo at first? I am running the PFC now, and I will be ordering a Boost controller but do I have need it immediatley or can I wait a few months?



2. Same basic question as #1. Ignition system? I am going to get one in a few months but do I need it now?



3. For my fuel system, should I run -6 AN lines or -10 AN lines? What are the major differences? I assume -10 AN lines are larger but are they better for a T78?



This is what I am ordering.



T78 kit

1600cc inj. and fuel rail

SX FPR (-6 or -10?)

HKS SSQV BOV

misc. other things like plugs, wires, etc...



Here are my current mods. I have a brand new BNR Race Ported motor as well. I plan on running 15psi or so at first until I can get a proper tuning session done and get my 3Bar map sensor installed. Thanks.





__________________

1993 FD R1 Black

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Pettit Street-Ported Motor

3mm Apex Seals

FEED DP

Blitz NUR Spec Exhaust

TKT Power Pulley

Apex'i Intake

Greddy Pulley Kit

Pettit Aluminum AST

Pettit Short Shifter

Boost Gauge

Eibach Pro-Kit

Apex Power FC w/ Commander

Blitz FMIC

RX7 Fashion Midpipe

Denso Fuel Pump

Fluidyne Radiator

BNR Stage 3 Clutch

Racing Beat Lightweight Flywheel

well a friend of mine just went thru this with the apexi kit.

the stock ignition is fine until at least 10psi, so you dont have to do anything right away (maybe not until way later)

the power fc wont control the boost, you can either run on the wastegate spring or get a boost controller



mike

So the PFC won't control boost with a Single? I have never heard that before. I was using it alone to control my twins. And the ignition system is good until at least 10psi? Do you mean at most? Or does the ignition system suck below 10psi? I am confused about your post.

PFC wont' control boost with a single unless you use the boost controller kit OR just buy the apexi avcr solenoid that plugs into the stock wiring harness and controls boost WITH the PFC.



Stock ignition is good for 10 psi EASILY.



You may just be able to run off of the wastegate spring. Find out what the wastegate is and boost off of that.



use -6 line...-10 is serious overkill.

Thanks for the help. I want to order this week but I just needed to make sure what all I needed right away. So the boost controller is a definate need and the ignition I can wait on unitl after my break in period.



Someone else told me to tun the -10 lines since I am planning on upping the boost later on. I would like to have a 15-17psi setting for low boost and a 20-22psi setting for high boost once I get it all finished up this summer and I don't want to have to do anything again. I hate doing **** twice.



Thanks, Scott

are you running new a sump and new fuel lines from the sump to the fuel rail ??



the search feature works here. you sure it doesn't work ?

i recommend the profec b and blitz sbc-id, boost controllers. i've used both and they are nice units

Trust me man, -6 is PLENTY fuel.



-10 is roughly the same size as your oil cooler lines... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

what i meant was his ignition (stock 130k stuff) was fine up until 10psi, over that and xs felt that he needed to spend another $500, so it wouldn't misfire. my other friend is running 17psi on stock ignition and its fine.



mike

Sorry about the search feature. I first started as a member on the RX7Club and it wasn't working there so I just copied and pasted the same question. This site is so much more informative and helpful then the other one. I always come here first now and the other one later if I still can't find an answer.



I am just running the Nippondenso Competition fuel pump as of now. I would like to add another in-line fuel pump later on. I also would like to switch over to dual 7 gallon fuel cells instead of the 20 gallon stock tank. That way I can have on ehigh pressure setup with 100+ octane for at the track and another with 93 octane pump gas for daily driving. But that is also later down the road. I have not switched out any of my fuel lines either, should I do it now while the motor is out? I have removed the AC and PS and I want to go ahead and get rid of ABS but I really hate ******* with my brakes. I have heard it is easy to do but I am still debating. It looks like I could always do that later on even with the motor in since it won't be any more difficult with the motor in or out.



Thanks, Scott

why don't you just sump your stock tank and run dual external fuel pumps?

I still don't like having a 20 gallon fuel tank. That is the same size as my SUV tank. I am still new at this whole customizing thing. I pretty much have always been a bolt on person but now I have decided to go all out and more or less build a really fast street car. I have got my cage and everything and my motor and my single hopefully on the way this week. Now it gets down to all the custom fuel work. And then the custom brake work and then the entire rear end is getting replaced with al the normal stuff. 700m axles, M2 toe links and trailing arms, KAAZ 1.5 diff, Mazdaspeed PPF, and I have been debating on switching gears from 4.10 to 4.33. But I am not all for that. I know the way it is that I can run over 140mph in 4th so I would hate to make it any lower and have to shift into 5th if it got high enough trap speeds at some point. I know you have all this stuff already but I am trying to create an order of operations for it all. What to get first, you know.

a 20 gallon tank is a good thing, especially if you drive on the street. i have to fill my fc up every 100miles (12gal tank) and it sucks



mike

But for weight consevation and safety, I do not like the idea of a 20 gallon tank. Because I would rather race with a full tank instead of a 1/4 tank to save weight but I would also like to save weight. I do not want to risk my internal pump sucking air if my low fuel tank was to shift one way or another. This way can have a full tank and still only 7 gallons in it.



I am not sure what gasoling weighs a gallon but I believe it is close to 8lbs or something. So I could save 100lbs by running a smaller tank that is full of gas vs. a stock 20 gallon tank full of gas ands still have the comfort of racing with a full tank.

Stock ignition is good for 20 psi I hear. I've been running 16 psi with no breakup. If you're getting breakup your problem is elsewhere, and an amp is a lame cure. You do need to run race plugs though.

your car will not be a street car with two fuel cells!!!

yeah, you will have to stop for gas like every day



mike

once every three days is enough for me https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

once every half hour at WOT, vos?

It is not my daily. I get horrible gas mileage the way it is. But this is just a future plan of mine. Maybe in the summer or next winter. I just want to get my car back on the road and I want to go ahead and order what I need now and get what I want later.