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Have clearance issues with the fc turbo on my repu

Old 05-12-2009, 05:36 PM
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Ok, first and foremost, I need to keep costs down.. I basically have everything for the fc stock turbo setup. I just wanna get this truck runnin, or as close to it as possible.. But i hit a snag.. after i decided to run megasquirt and turbo it since i have all the parts I reconfigured my engine mounts , and realized that the turbo hit the passenger's side framerail. I remember seeing that the engine in my FC was offset more to the driver's side to allow more space on the exhaust side.. I can probably get away with that by shifting my engine to that side a couple of inches, but i would also have to raise it. As it was now, i had it only about an inch above the crossmember, from the oilpan(repu pan drilled out to fit T2 block, first gen style front cover).



SO , my main question is, if i cannot figure out how to get it to fit with the stock hardware, can i make a custom manifold? How hard would it be, and would mig welding be recommended. Or should i get it tig welded? I could mock it up and tack stuff into place, then take it to get tig welded..



I know I can maybe purchase a kit, BUT since it is for an fc it may still have similar clearance issues, so even if i went with a custom turbo i might need to still make a custom manifold.. If i do go this route, I imagine i would need to make provisions for a wastegate and then make a flange to fit the stock turbo.. OR make it the t4 flange which is more popular, and get an adapter to run the stocker for now..



Ill post some pics in here when i take some, to see if you guys got any ideas/suggestions.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:58 PM
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Well after staring at the engine bay and doin a bit of eyeball measuring.. i figured i could try and move the engine up two inches, closer to where the stock position was.. I did that and I moved the engine slightly to the driver's side. Now i can Fit the fat *** air thingy that moves the flap within the manifold(which i would much rather remove unless it does anything special).. The other air actuator that i guess controls the wastegate still hit the frame though, so I removed it and i clocked it about 20 degrees on the turbo, and now it does clear the frame, I just have to modify the rod that goes to the actual flap on the side of the turbo.





I did notice the shaft has about 1/32 of play on it, but it doesn't drag on anything when i spin it.. Should i be worried about that?
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