Hi Guys,



Bear with me this might be one of the longest post yet



I did a rebuild with a Rotary aviation Master rebuild kit..My old engine had a scratched housing and a broken seal.. I also replaced the scracthed housing.... then i drove the car for 800 miles without boosting and keeping the RPMs below 3000...



After 800miles of run-in i gave it a little throttle to see if it boosted.. and it was boosting fine till 4-5 psi so i stopped.. the vaccum was a little low at around 350mmhg but my car is streetported...then after another 200miles i floored the accelerator at around 3500 rpms.. at 8 psi around 4500rpms my car started hesitating.. like something was stopping it and made some load noises from under the hood felt like something was holding it back.. so i stopped...



I thought my turbos must be shot.. so i bought a single turbo kit from a friend.. it has a custom manifold, an HKS T04E turbo and a Turbosmat pro-gate wastegate... after installing the kit i drove the car for a little while without boosting... then i boosted but at around 8-9 psi at around 4500 rpms the same problem occured....



The i asked some ppl and they said i might have the wastegate hooked up wrong.. so i got the diagrams and hooked it up correclty.. then took the car for a spin.. it ran great..i just gave it a test run and parked the car.. the next day i was very busy so i just gave it another test run and parked it again.. then i asked my mechanic to come by my house in the day and take the midpipe off and put a resonator in it.. the problem came back.. now i have taken the resonated midpipe off and have the straight through mid pipe in.. still the problem is there.... what could it be.. following is a list of the mods :



Streetported motor

HKS T04E turbo kit

Greddy large SMIC

Apex-i GT spec Radiator

Apex-i N1 Exhuast

Apex-i Power FC

Greddy E-01 boost controller

Midpipe

Aquamist 1s system





Any clues on what it could be.. also when the hesitation happens i can hear the wastegate popping it makes loud noises and at time it gives a sound like an explosion... and severe hesitation..



Please Help https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

What broke the last engine?

did u ever tune the car??

What size injectors are you using? Is the FPR connected properly? On the Power FC did you see high injector duty cycles, was the knock level high?



What are the boost cut settings on the Power FC?



Really need some more information to figure it out, It could be fuel related or it could be a limiter setting on the Power FC.

sounds like he's hitting a rev limiter and/or the ecu is set so rich that banging sound you hear is fuel over-run.

Sounds like tuning. Find someone who can give you some maps or help set it up correctly.

Quote On the Power FC did you see high injector duty cycles, was the knock level high? /Quote



When the one day it ran fine at 13 psi i saw 96%.. else it hesitates at even 60% duty cycle.. I am using stock injectors..





Quote What are the boost cut settings on the Power FC? / Quote



I don't know.. are they the ones which say primary and secondary.. those i have set at 1 bar..





Quote sounds like he's hitting a rev limiter and/or the ecu is set so rich that banging sound you hear is fuel over-run. /Quote



Feels like it too.. when i hear the bang it feels like its hitting the limiter or something...





Ok now i remeber ever since i put the single turbo in the car it is running richer.. the o2 sensor always read rich... the exhaust air is signifcantly cooler.. i don;t have an EGT but it feels cooler if i put my hand infront of the exhuast..Also after a run if i park the car and then start it up again.. it starts right away but it starts like its flooded a little.. takes atleast a minute to idle properly..



Can it be the FPR... should i try using an aftermarket FPR??



About the maps.. i am not sure if they are the problem as i was using the same powerfc on my car before the rebuild on the old engine .. and it was boosting fine...



Please help...Thanks

Ok reset the ecu.. drove the car and it felt much much better... i ran like 2-3 3rd gear runs uptill 5500rpms at around 9 psi.. all was fine...



then after i parked it and then drove it at 9 psi it would again hesitate a little... so i turned the boost controller off.... now at 6.5 psi it runs great.. no hesitation..



Can it be the boost controller... it does make some strange noise too..



at 6.5 psi i drove it for half an hour without any problems to 6500rpms...



Ok this is what i do.. when i park the car i let it idle for 1 minute and then turn the engine off but keep the ignition on so that the fans would stay on.. i let the ignition on for 40 mins and after dinner went back to take the key out and monitor the max water temp on the Commander... to my surprise it had reached a max of 108c



Isn't that a alittle higher than it should be?



Should i try a manual boost controller?



thanks

i honestly honestly think its ALL tuning related. You are a brave man to slap a single turbo on your car and run around boosting on stock injectors without a thought at to what the maps are. Tuning issues could cause any number of problems to cause the car to react as you described.

another possibility is that its a bad harness or wiring.



it does sound like its either detonating, or hitting a fuel cut

I had a similar problem a while back , turned out to be the ignition pick up , not the magnetic sensors but the wheel it self. After checking everything , I noticed the little tab that sticks out from outer edge that signals the home trigger (I think ) was bent forward away from the sensor , after I streightened it out , like magic , everything went back to normal. Only thing is , at high RPM there was still a bit of breaking up and backfiring , I did some reading ( HALTECH manual) , and found out that the clearance between the sensor and the wheel is very critical , especially at high RPM,s , so I took the wheel off an got it as flat as I could , put it back on , then got a feeler gauge and got it as close to the sensor as possible without touching (of course) and I now hit 9000rpm with no sweat.

Thanks for all the replies...I understand that i must get the car tuned but there is no tuner here https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif ... i will try it myself..



What i am curious about is that when i turn the boost controller off and drive the car at 6.5 psi it runs great without any hesitation... But when i turn the boost controller on and add even 2% it starts hesitating ...I am confused why it starts as soon as the boost controller comes into the picture even if i am not increasing the boost significanlty.. may be .5 psi or something...



Will also check the ignition pick-up tomorrow.





thanks

Hi Guys,



OK here it goes... Whatif i just put the XS Single turbo map that i downloaded from the Forum... Considering that i am using a pretuned Powerfc which i ordered from a guy and asked him to tune it for 12psi for the twins.. Now the XS map should be better than what i am running now.. won't it??



I am asking because i don't have a Datalogit and i assume its easier to tune using the Datalogit... I will have to tune using my Commander... I think it will take the most of my weekend...



Also can a high Knock reading be whats cuasing the hesitation?? should i try turning off the Knock sensor?



Thanks for all your help.. but still more is needed... I am also thinking of getting a manual boost controller from a friend to check if the Profec-E01 is causing the problem.. because surprisingly even if i turn it on and increase the boost by only 2% the problem starts.. if i raise it further under pressure i hear the wastegate popping open...



thanks alot guys for all the help... I hope soon i can write to you guys saying Problem solved...

My first two thoughts were, wastegate, connected improperly maybe; and knock sensor. When I'm boosting 10PSI on my twins with my ProfecB SpecII and PMS piggyback, at higher RPM I hit a HARD fuel cut, but it I keep my foot in it, the boost will come back.. cut again, come back.. This problem has been attributed to the knock sensor, used in conjunction with the exhaust.. The knock sensor is 'listening' and getting resonance off the rotor housing and trips, cutting the fuel. Apparently relocating the knock sensor helps rectify the situation. The difference is, everyone says that a PFC solves this problem. This long explaination suggests that you read the knock sensor output on your PFC (if it has one) and see if this is cutting your fuel!

if you have high knock that might mean you're detontating, fix the detonation!

What do i check other than the engine? My knock sensor had high readings on the old engine and the engine before that...Car ran fine... i see 150+ on the commander...

How do i check the sensors if they r the reason? Also an update.. today when i was driving trying to boost more than 6.5psi the car made a loud noise and some exhaust gasket started leaking.. its making too much noise under the bonnet...else was all fine it was boosting till 6 psi i think i did'nt notice if it was holding boost or not.. but it is very loud... when i brought it home it seems like the gasket in between the manifold and turbo is gone...could that have been what was causing the problem.. i will give the car tomorrow to have a new gasket installed....



How do i check if i have a faulty sensor on the power Fc?? I read a post on the other forum titled "my car is what my tuner calls a problem child" this guy was having the same problem.. turned out to be a faulty water temp sensor... he said his old sensor gave feedback of 2.40v on the commander and another one that he used which fixed the problem gave feedback of 1.70v .... i don't know if i am checking the right screen but mine says .76v on the commander sensor check screen??



Please help and tell me where to locate the water temp senosr as i want to swap mine with a friends.. also where is a air temp sensor??



thanks

How do i check the sensors if they r the reason? Also an update.. today when i was driving trying to boost more than 6.5psi the car made a loud noise and some exhaust gasket started leaking.. its making too much noise under the bonnet...else was all fine it was boosting till 6 psi i think i did'nt notice if it was holding boost or not.. but it is very loud... when i brought it home it seems like the gasket in between the manifold and turbo is gone...could that have been what was causing the problem.. i will give the car tomorrow to have a new gasket installed....



How do i check if i have a faulty sensor on the power Fc?? I read a post on the other forum titled "my car is what my tuner calls a problem child" this guy was having the same problem.. turned out to be a faulty water temp sensor... he said his old sensor gave feedback of 2.40v on the commander and another one that he used which fixed the problem gave feedback of 1.70v .... i don't know if i am checking the right screen but mine says .76v on the commander sensor check screen??



Please help and tell me where to locate the water temp senosr as i want to swap mine with a friends.. also where is a air temp sensor??



thanks

Ok got the gasket installed.. during the process noticed one of the silicon hose from the intercooler pipe had a nasty cut... so i changed that too and thought to myself finally problem found and that i would be able to enjoy the car... But it became fine for 1 run and then i parked the car... 2 hours later i took the car out again same problem was there....



Ok one thing for sure the car is running rich.. even at the 4000rpms hesitation the A/F meter always reads rich.. Also after driving for a while if i park the car for a little while and then turn it back on it seems like its flooded... it starts right away but sounds like there is alot of fuel and the car seems like it wants to stall and then after 40 seconds to a minute it becomes ok...



Help help help... I think i thaw a tweety bird... oh man i am going bonkers...



Its 4:30 in the morning and i can hardly keep my eyes open.. still am browsing the forum to find a post with a similar problem...

Ok i think i did it....



When i started the car today the idle was like the car wanted to stall....



So i switched the car off to check what was wrong... i noticed on the power fc commander even with the car off.. it read +0.024 kg



even with the car off... when i start the car instead of going into negative it stays in positive... also fuel is being dumped from the exhuats... i thought it might be the map sensor... but it is hooked up..



Is it time for another rebuild??

do you have the map sensor hooked up to the right nipple?

I checked it.. it was hooked up right.. i even took it out and turned the car on.. now it remained at +.024 did not move at all... with the map sensor back on the vaccum does move put mostly stays in positive... only at 1800rpms it went to -350mmhg...........



whats wrong...

Some feedback... Please help...

[quote name='ScrewedByAFD' date='Jun 15 2004, 01:23 PM']Hi Guys,



Bear with me this might be one of the longest post yet



I did a rebuild with a Rotary aviation Master rebuild kit..My old engine had a scratched housing and a broken seal.. I also replaced the scracthed housing.... then i drove the car for 800 miles without boosting and keeping the RPMs below 3000...



After 800miles of run-in i gave it a little throttle to see if it boosted.. and it was boosting fine till 4-5 psi so i stopped.. the vaccum was a little low at around 350mmhg but my car is streetported...then after another 200miles i floored the accelerator at around 3500 rpms.. at 8 psi around 4500rpms my car started hesitating.. like something was stopping it and made some load noises from under the hood felt like something was holding it back.. so i stopped...



I thought my turbos must be shot.. so i bought a single turbo kit from a friend.. it has a custom manifold, an HKS T04E turbo and a Turbosmat pro-gate wastegate... after installing the kit i drove the car for a little while without boosting... then i boosted but at around 8-9 psi at around 4500 rpms the same problem occured....



The i asked some ppl and they said i might have the wastegate hooked up wrong.. so i got the diagrams and hooked it up correclty.. then took the car for a spin.. it ran great..i just gave it a test run and parked the car.. the next day i was very busy so i just gave it another test run and parked it again.. then i asked my mechanic to come by my house in the day and take the midpipe off and put a resonator in it.. the problem came back.. now i have taken the resonated midpipe off and have the straight through mid pipe in.. still the problem is there.... what could it be.. following is a list of the mods :



Streetported motor

HKS T04E turbo kit

Greddy large SMIC

Apex-i GT spec Radiator

Apex-i N1 Exhuast

Apex-i Power FC

Greddy E-01 boost controller

Midpipe

Aquamist 1s system

Any clues on what it could be.. also when the hesitation happens i can hear the wastegate popping it makes loud noises and at time it gives a sound like an explosion... and severe hesitation..



Please Help https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif


[/quote]

[quote name='PORTED' date='May 23 2005, 01:34 PM']
[/quote]



Just sounds like your power fc is doing a rethink. I sometimes have to do a default and drive the car for an hour before it comes right stopping every now in then to press the save button. Apexi picks up any little change and automatically runs a kind of a O2 test which doubles the A/F ratio and wont allow you to boost over 5psi https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif . untill its finished.