Well I finally was able to get my car running earlier this week.....it took along time to get it started but she eventually did. It was idling then for approximately 10 minutes but then it began to overheat some so I shut it off.



Well I am trying to get it started again so that I can try and fix my overheating problem but my car won't stay running long enough to try and do anything. Most people won't have this problem, but a few of you with an Aeromotive A1000 FP may be able to help me. I know it does not have a schrader valve on it so fuel pressure is not help constant in the lines once the pump quits running. I can not start my car by letting the pump prime and then starting it. I have to start the car while the pump is priming and then it will stay running anywhere from 1-20 secs. before it dies.



I am running a -10 Feed line into a pair of -8 lines to both rails in parallel. Then a -8 return line from both rails to an SX FPR, and back to the tank via another -8 line. I have no evaporative system on my car, I doubt that matters much, but just in case, I am letting you know.



My question is about fuel pressure and why the car won't stay running. Could I have too low of pressure, too high of pressure, too much fuel coming in via my 750 pri/1680 sec injectors, not enough fuel, etc...? What would cause my car to start only when the pump is priming and only run for a few seconds now.



I don't know what else you need to know about my car, it has a brand new ported motor in it, we have used ATF to start it, we have unflooded it a few times, I am just trying to figure this out and I am sure someone knows what the problem is and possibly how to fix it. I am also running an Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller.



Thanks,

Scott

What computer are you running? I think the fuel pressure should be around 30-40psi. New motors are a bitch to start untill all the seal breakin properly. Have you pull started it? Someone that I know has a Aeromotive A1000, he has to crank the car but not start it too get pressure in the system.

I am running an Apex'i Power FC. It is being a complete bitch to start....it is definately fuel related though. The pump won't keep the lines pressurized so I can't start it any other way then to crank while it is priming...it is kind of annoying.



Any A1000 users that can help me out?

Do you have the PFC set for 750/1600's?

I think I know what your problem may be. IGY helped me figure out mine when it did the same thing. I ran 2 in tanks pumps and had one hell of a time keeping the car idling. IGY traced it down to the voltage going to the fuel pump. At idle, the FP is at -6 volts DC. When the gas is pushed down, it switches to -12 vdc(or whatever the alternator is putting out). To remedy this, we put a relay inline with the power wire going to the Fuel pump causing it to always be on at -12 vdc. Soon as the relay was in...car starts everytime. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Yes, I have my Power FC set for the 756/1680 injectors.



Here is a layout of the wiring I have for the fuel pump and fuel pump controller.



The pump has a 10g ground and a 10g wire to the fuel pump controller.



The controller has a 10g wire to the pump, a 12g wire to a battery source w/ a 30AMP in-line fuse, a 16g ground, a 16g wire to a relay which spliced into the factory harness at the ECU (so my relay is being used instead of the factory relay), as well as a 16g wire to another relay which is spliced into the factory harness at the ECU (so my relay is being used instead of the factory resistor).



The controller than operates the pump and uses the ECU to control the pump, so it primes just like stock, it switches the current just like stock, and all that jazz.



I know my problem is fuel related....it is just a question of what is the actual problem. Could be fuel pressure, could be fuel pump voltage, could be injector problems, etc....I just need to be able to trace down the problem and fix it. I will check all the voltage today and see if that is my problem.



Thanks for all the help so far....please feel free to help more. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the system? What's the rail pressure set to?

That is kind of a bitch....I have a fuel pressure gauge, but stupidly I placed my FPR against the firewall (which now I know it has to be at least 6" away from the firewall to be NHRA legal, so it needs to move) which keeps me from having a gauge installed while it is running...it hits the manifold. It sucks. But what I did, was powered the pump to stay running while the car was in the on position, removed the UIM and all that, and checked the pressure, we have it set at about 40psi when the pump is just running with the lines full. It really needs to be moved and fixed, that is just ******* dumb, I know, but I don't have enough parts at the moment to move all my lines. I would like to run a fuel line from the gauge port to another spot in the motor so I could monitor it, but I can't find any lines like that. Male on one side, and female on the other, plus the bends would worry me as well.

I would maybe try getting rid of one of those relays. Just use a switch to power up the relay and wire direct to the battery. Unless You are using the Aeromotive fuel pump controller in your setup. If You cant keep enough fuel in the lines at idle You are going to have big problems when Your into some big boost.



Steve

I am running the Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller as well....hence the two relays. One is for the PWR and the other is for the SWT.

Scott,

first off... how have ya been? good i hope. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

as you know, i also run the same pump. i do have a differnt EMS than you which plays *somewhat* of a role in this.... with the haltech is also primes the pump but as Jspecrace7 stated with the PFC the voltage is differnt due to the wiring from ecu to pump. volytage *could* be your problem, but i have a feeling your problem lies wiht the actual pump. if you notice, the pump will not hold pressure due to there being no *check ball*. if you notice, when turned off, imediatly if you check the guage, there should be zero presure. this is totaly differnt form the stock replacemt style pumps where they will hold presure.

also, did you build the start map from scratch? or using another mapas a starting point? your starting map areas could also be playing a role in some of the hard starting problems, but i have a feeling that after the pump ids primed, is where you problem may start....

btw, good to see you are making headway though. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Lane change,

I've encountered a similar issue and I was running the Cosmo fuel pump. The problem is that the fuel lines do NOT stay pressureized after shutoff. To remedy this issue, people have recommended a check valve after the rails.



Jim

The pump primes, but does it stay running once the car starts? You also really need to check your fuel pressure while the car is running. And did you hook up the fuel pressure requlator backwards, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen this done and have the symptoms your having..

I just finished relocating my FPR to the front of the UIM so that I can monitor my pressure to see if that is the problem. How do you hook it up wrong? I have two lines in and one line out. Seems pretty straightforward to me.



I have checked the power and I have 12V going to the fuel pump controller, but I did not have a spare set of hands to check the pump itself when the key is on so it can prime. I will though.



I can hear the pump running when the car is idling and it idled for roughly 10 minutes the first time, before we had to shut it off due to temps....that is what I am trying to fix....but now I got to get her running again to fix that problem....so I now have two problems.



If it would just stay running long enough to build fuel pressure I am sure it would stay running, but it won't stay running any longer than 10 seconds or so.



Who knows....I will play with it some more and see why it won't stay running. It could be my maps, fuel pressure, pump voltage, etc....

it sounds to me like you just need the pump to keep running not just prime and stop then start running again after it's started... if the pump doesnt have any check valve to keep the pressure in the system the 'prime' step is futile as the pressure leaves immediately after it stops priming. Why not just have the pump get 12V whenever the ignition switch is in the on or start positions?





if you would like to confirm your problem is that there is no pressure after it primes for starting, just put a battery in the hatch (for testing purposes) and wire it straight to the fuel pump.. then start the car... and troubleshoot your cooling system https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I used to have that Aeromotive pump in my car and it should pressurize the system damn near instantly with no problems. If it isn't then your pump is junk or you FP Reg is set too low or you need to adjust your fuel map.



I've seen people hook the in and out lines backwards on the regulator. Ie. fuel pump went directly to the out fitting on the regulator.



It should be hooked up somthing like this diagram

I checked the voltage going to the Fuel Pump Controller. I have 17.2v going from my battery source to the controller...15.3v going to the pump.....17.2v going to the SWT.......and 0.0v going to the PWR.



I know my Voltmeter is a bit off, even though it is a brand new Craftsman, I should not have 17v from the battery, it should be 12v. Either way, you get an idea of what has power. These tests were done with the key in the on position, not with the car running, it may be different, but I can't start it to find out.



I tried swithcing the SWT and PWR wires around on the controller and on the relay....same results, PWR had no power and the SWT has 17v. I did not try switching the currents off of the ECU, could that be it? I wonder if the ECU wires are wrong....anyone know how they have their Fuel Pump Controller wired up?



Thanks,

Scott



Once I get it running again, I will check the fuel pressure and all that.

Also, Dragon, nice pic....mine is set up right. I am running a -10 feed and a -8 return. There is no getting them mixed up under there.