I would imagine the torque bieng alot less then on a bolt.

 

[quote name='RONIN FC' date='Jul 8 2005, 09:51 AM']I would imagine the torque bieng alot less then on a bolt.


[/quote]





Which is why Pressure Tape testing should be utilized to duplicate the correct torque values

 

[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jul 7 2005, 07:40 PM']Mint!



This is for the entire engine round correct, and the front iron is threaded, right?



So I take it you thread the studs in by hand and then use nuts on the opposite end? Or am I completely off base here..

Excuse me I don't do teardowns as often as you to say for sure how you would assemble this kit.. Forgive any misunderstanding on my part...

Let me know though!


[/quote]





Correct.

 

Okay so how can you be sure each stud is threaded into the iron all the way before you torque the outer nut?



It might sound silly considering there isn't alot to get in the way of the threads being dirty or something..





But can you assure there is a very minor chance anyone can make the mistake of partially threading into the iron and torquing the outer nut? You won't have the full thread strength although your torque wrench will click to spec, that can be disasterous..





I might be off base again but these are things I've run into problems with aside from engine building, other applications in life.. I'd want to be 100% on it when putting an engine together.





If it were me I would snug each stud into place by double lock-nut on the tip of the opposite end, then undo the lock nut and torque the proper nut to spec





Are people going to be aware of this type of procedure for assuring proper full threading or is it a no-brainer type of install?

 

FYI I'm pretty interested in picking this up should you be able to attain sufficient torque specs..

 

[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jul 11 2005, 08:03 PM']Okay so how can you be sure each stud is threaded into the iron all the way before you torque the outer nut?



It might sound silly considering there isn't alot to get in the way of the threads being dirty or something..

But can you assure there is a very minor chance anyone can make the mistake of partially threading into the iron and torquing the outer nut? You won't have the full thread strength although your torque wrench will click to spec, that can be disasterous..

I might be off base again but these are things I've run into problems with aside from engine building, other applications in life.. I'd want to be 100% on it when putting an engine together.

If it were me I would snug each stud into place by double lock-nut on the tip of the opposite end, then undo the lock nut and torque the proper nut to spec

Are people going to be aware of this type of procedure for assuring proper full threading or is it a no-brainer type of install?


[/quote]



You should use a bottom end tap to clean the threads with this kit, and use it to cut several more MM of thread in the front iron. After cleaning the threads you should run the studs in by hand, and you shouldn't have any problems with not having the stud in far enough.

 

I have 7 kits in stock currently available. I am currently assembling 2 motors of my own for testing, and possibly 2 motors for customers over the next month or two. Torque specs are 120 ft lbs. If anyone is interested PM me, and I'll give you the shop phone #.

 

I just got the rest of the hareware in and I should have a motor done with them next week. I believe I am going to goto 85 ft #s, and start with that. I know it can goto 120 ft #s safely.

 

I thought the idea was not to overtorque...



So these aren't to be torqued to 120, they can just handle 120?



What's the OEM torque value offhand anyways?

 

OEM is 23-29 I believe? Something close to that.



I am assembling them to 80 ft #s.

I just did a test on a motor since people are so worried, and

the rotor housings did not crush at all, even down to the .001" ...



$350 shipped is the price tag.

PM for payment information.