I want forced induction so badd for my car, but don't know where to start.

Greddy has a nice turbo that comes with all upgrades you need for about 3k. It will add 60whp (wheel not measured at engine, rx8 has about 200whp stock).



However, if you can wait I am getting the pettit racing twin-screw supercharger. It also gives 60whp (that includes power loss to run supercharger, so it is a little more psi than greddy). So, it has same power as Greddy but comes on much faster and stays high in psi in high RPM when turbo goes down. The product is from what I hear finished, but pettit hasn't quite started selling them yet.



If you want more power there is a kit that gives 80 more whp but it costs $7,000 so I won't even bother mentioning the company name. Since the supercharger comes on earlier and does better in high RPM, it might be faster anyways.

I meant more 80whp than stock, not turbos/superchargers. If it were 80 more than them then 140whp more than stock would be a great deal. Sorry if I confused anyone.

Good luck without a bunch of cash, the Greddy kit is a pile of dog poo IMO.



I have been talking with 1revvin7 and figuring out best way to go about this but he should be working on a engin dynod turbo setup. Exspect around 400whp and over capable.

How big is your checkbook?

hmm, now that you mention it,,, my checkbook is HUGE. i of course just bought more checks though...hehe

The boosted Rx8 idea worries me. Unlike a conventional 13B under boost, if the renesis detonates and attempts to chuck the apex seal out the exhaust... where will it go? It doesn't have side exahust ports like the normal 13B, instead...the seal will get stuck and bounce around in the motor for a few seconds, then grind away at those expensive housings. Just my thoughts... I still like the rx8 and want one, but I dunno if I'd boost it. If I did, it would be low, 5 -7psi max...

Precisely the reason why the Renesis is more resilliant to detonation. The seals can't be blown out the periph ports, so they don't deform under light detonation. Now, you can blow the MSP up, but it is no longer the case that one good ping will spew a seal like the REW.

Its always good if a seal stays where it's put...and even better that the renesis can take a few pings more than the REW..but lets face it, most the rx8 guys out there wanting to boost their cars and are NOT rotary mechanics and they WILL blow the motor after numerous pings, etc.



Seriously, out of all the Rx8 owners i've run into and actually talked to, only two of them had previously owned an rx7, neither of which modified their cars, but are planning to mod the rx8,lol...



the rx8 in capable hands would be a terrific car, but otherwise...

The pettit supercharger definitly comes on before an unmodified Greddy turbo. In fact, it is on in idle (not full boost of course).



Also, I have never heard of people saying its not the turbo size that makes it lose power in high RPM. Experts who have been working on getting more power from it (over 350 whp) say it still goes down in high RPM. People have put larger turbos on the rx8 and keep power in high RPM. Unless the turbo had its own gears, it can't keep power in high RPM.

Now there are more options. Pettit is making a stage 3 kit which they expect to get near 400 whp.



Also, Mazsport has a Greddy kit with 350whp under 12 psi with their Intercepter which costs around $2000 (not including turbo).



There is a supercharger being worked on that has 2 gears. So, it comes on early and stays on throughout RPM. That is supposed to be 7-9k when it comes out, but it doesn't look like it will be out soon.



Gear Supercharger

The greddy kit drops from the WG and the undersized turbine.



I have been seeing alot of reni motors coming for rebuilds.

i've done 5 greedy-powered renny's aready. it's more the emanage than the turbo itself though. the stock computer is just hard to work around.

After seeing the damage that occures to these engines I have decided that I will never boost one. If it goes poof everything is junk. The broken apex seals can't escape the engine and distroy everything. If I were to turbo an RX-8 it would get a FD engine transplant with a bunch cool toys and a good EMS.

don't be scared. mazsport already has the interceptor out, and haltech's sure to follow.



or you could always use an fc or fd front cover and use whatever ems you want.

^ But you lose all the intake port tuning.



Wouldent you have to use the E11V2 seeing as there are 6 INJ's and 6coils?

2 are rpm switches. the 6pi is the only thing you'd have to get around, but even then, you can still build a bracket, use the gear and solonoid from a power doorlock setup and actuate them.



the e11 wouldn't do anything much over the e8 besides the omp. it still can't control tertiary injection, as far as i know. and there are only 4 coils.



but if i were to get really crazy with a renny, it'd be a ported 4-port turbo motor. then other than the crank sensor, it's an rx7 motor, as far as the computer is concerned.

I need to look into the E8 I forget about it I always think E6K.



Sorry for that over site on coils that was stupid lol :-P



Nice thinkin on that lock.

i wonder if anyone would trade me a 4-port motor for my 6-port?



i'm curious to see how it would like some overlap. aka actuated peripheral ports.

I have a 4 port but I don't know what it would take to put the 6 port in the car.



Obviously more because the ECUs are different and harness is different.

if the 6 port weren't blown, i'd trade you. i've got the harness, ecu, manifolds, etc...



i think the 4 port is gonna get on with boost a little better than the 6 ports. the 6pi is great for na's, but not needed once you start shoving air in there on its own.

check out this july's issue of car and driver PTP motorsports turbo kit for 5k delivers 152 horsepower plus other mods....

cost more to turbo a 8 then my FB

Check out this months Car and Driver magazine July 2006, complete turbo coverage on the Protech system for the RX8.

The GReddy computer doesnt have anyway to control the fuel pumps in the rx8 so changing the fuel maps doesnt fix everything. At certain rpms and certain throttle position with the right load there may still be fuel starvation problems because fuel pumps are still running like they would with a stock tune. Fuel pressure fluctuates with stock set up. The Mazsport Interceptor allows you to fix this problem, so tunning is much more acurate. With the Interceptor, in my opinion, you still need an air temp sensor and a wideband o2 sensor, both specifically calibrated for the Interceptor. This will cost about $1000+ from Mazsport on top of the cost of the Interceptor. You may want to also do something to modify the fuel pick up because hard cornering with much less than half a tank may cause fuel starvation problems too.



The turbo in the GReddy kit isnt big enough to hold more than 5 or 6 psi at redline, so no matter what you set the boost for, it will fall off up high. Mazsport is in the process of designing their own turbo kit i believe.



Rx8s have overheating problems so no matter what you do, the first upgrade should be either vented hood or radiator relocation, so hot air has a way to leave the engine bay. Aftermarket radiator will help too, but without a way for air to escape that wont be enough. Vented hoods seem to be the cheapest way to help with this problem, radiator relocation is most likely alittle better, but i think a vented hood usually does the trick.



The renesis will hold up to boost if its tuned correctly.



I would also get urethane engine mounts, or even solid mounts before you add much power to the cars, or even drive them hard in stock form. The stock liquid mounts suck really really bad and when they go bad your lower intake manifold will crack from hitting the subframe. Vibrations are almost non existant even with solid mounts, i have no idea why ford/mazda felt that liquid mounts were a good idea. Your whole drivetrain will last longer with harder mounts, soft mounts put alot of unnecessary stress on everything.



If you want a reliable car that you can beat on like it was stock, then dont try to turbocharge an Rx8 without about $10,000 to throw down on all the stuff mentioned above. You may have to have engine mounts custom made, if you go solid you also may need engine mount brackets made because the stock ones are just cast aluminum and they will crack and break with time, but someone may already make something, i dont know. If you are going to have custom mounts made, then you should know the subframe is about 3 degrees from level and that 3 degrees faces away from the engine on either side. I believe this angle has to be compensated for in the top of the engine mounts or the engine mount brakets wont sit correctly. Anyway, I have gathered this info from working on the cars myself and talking to some of the people making parts for the rx8 so i am 99% sure its all good info.

just since i'm getting another renny motor with the interceptor, i'll use it. it's nice to have a little extra control, but at the end of the day, it's still a microtech, and has the typical microtech limitations.



but the other renny gets an fc front cover and a haltech e8.

The microtech isnt too limited, the only thing i can see that really matters is when tuning by load you cant tune the ignition as well as you can fuel. Ignition can only be tuned the "user friendly" way. But most people dont have access to a dyno that will allow them to tune for load anyway. I havent had much experience with haltech, how much more capable is it? Just curious.



The nice thing about the Interceptor is that you can still keep the stock TB and stock steering rack. Personally i dont like the feel of the steering much and would like just a damn manual rack on everything i drive. But the interceptor does keep things very simple. Its not perfect though.

as far as the rx8 is concerned, options are limited.



go dl the haltech software and poke around with it.

i guess maybe the haltech lets you play with when and how injectors come on instead of just letting you play with overall amounts of fuel?



I'll take a look at the software, i think i might be looking for fuel management for my 7 sometime in the near future.

yea, it has a few different staging options. primary hold, duty cut, has extra load bars, etc etc... it's got a lot of control to it.



the one thing it doesn't have that i wish it did is staging load vs. rpm. it's load dependant, but not rpm. if it had that, i could stage at say 10 psi @ 3500 rpm, and 4 psi @ 5k rpm... stuff like that.

If you want to control the fuel pump with the E-Manage, you can. But it is not necessary. The pump low speed is only engaged in verly low load. It is always at high speed when you are anywhere near boost so it isn't an issue.

With the Int-X, you will also want to calibrate for altitude, so a dedicated BARO sensor is a good idea.

The fuel starvation issue is mostly right-handers at low fuel levels. A secondary pump might be a good idea for that.





The turbo in the kit is good aout to 20 PSI on the Renesis. It is the WG actuator that causes the problems.





Not all have "overheating problems". I think it needs to be addressed on a case-by-case basis.

Simply installing a larger rad has solved this in all the cases I'm aware of.

I live in the desert and regularly see air temps around 114°F. The surface taemp can easily top 160°F. I run full boost at high speeds for long distances under these circumstances without my coolant temps going over 230°F.

A vented hood simply moves the air outlet from the side to the top. No real benefit there, but it will screw up the airflow and cook things that wouldn't otherwise get cooked.





Agreed. True for all motors. Bad tuning gives some motors a bad rap. I've seen far more bad tuning than good in my years and half of the time it was at the hands of "professional" tuners.





The OEM mounts can be filled with 80 durometer shore urethane for about $15. I did this and it makes the floping go away. There is some additional NVH at idle, but it is negligible.





The shear strength on the OEM aluminum mounts is almost as great as the control arms. It would take a significant impact to break them.

That said, building a box-tube around the connection tang on the OEM mount will cost $8 and take 30 minutes. "Problem" solved.

there is a new updated engine mount, and service bulletin, as of about 10days ago. i'm not sure what the update is, but the older ones collapsed and it felt like the engine was sitting on the frame.

i would love it if haltech did that, its the only thing really lacking vs the oem ecu's on the e11/e8 series, you can get it to do everything else

why do you need that? it really becomes a problem with itbs, at which point you should use tps for load sensing.

its more of a want....

MazdaManiac,



What do you see for EGTS preturbine?