BDC's cracked front iron block
06-15-2007, 03:46 PM
#1
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Location: Grand Prairie, TX
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06-19-2007, 10:36 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='875413' date='Jun 18 2007, 07:32 AM
interesting. how to the grooves in the rotors spec out?
I haven't measured them. Thanks for reminding me.
I'm also curious why the corner seal springs on the front rotor were all flat (well, almost all of them).
B
06-19-2007, 12:45 PM
#4
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the motor that came out of my old gsl-se was like that, spotless, but the corner seal springs were pounded into the rotors... that motor saw a LOT of high rpms, everyone who borrowed the car would say the same thing
them: donuts/drifting etc are so easy in that car, you just rev it up to the limiter
me: it doesnt have a rev limiter
them: donuts/drifting etc are so easy in that car, you just rev it up to the limiter
me: it doesnt have a rev limiter
06-20-2007, 03:20 PM
#5
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Here's the actual post from TeamFC3S.org along with the link to the pictures:
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The motor is torn all the way down. Here's the low-down:
- Front iron's inner water jacket o-ring (an RA teflon-encapsulated ring) was beginning to split on its teflon jacketting on the combustion side
- 5 flattened corner seal springs on the front rotor
- Two small cracks on the upper dowel land on the front iron plate. Rear iron was fine.
Photos are uploaded. They start from here: http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/ProjectC...bly/?g2_page=2 at image 5246 onward. Got 23 of them uploaded.
For a motor that was built in Mid 2004 and having been run daily since up to the point of breaking in Dec 2006, it is remarkably spotless. There was an extremely small amount of carbon build-up left on either of the two rotors. The rotors are nearly carbon-free with the exception of a few small spots. Also, all of the seals and springs were carbon-free. In the above-linked photos, you can see one of the side seal springs in one of the photos -- it's 100% carbon-free. I believe the alcohol had this profound effect on the internals as nothing else can explain it. The motor had run for 2 years as a daily prior to the introduction of alcohol. In the short 5-odd months or so of running alcohol, and only having it engage in boost, is what I believe cleaned the internals of the motor. The intake ports are spotless as were the exhaust ports along with all of the seals and springs (excluding the oil control ring springs). Simply amazing. The removal of any carbon deposits is a benefit as it removes potential for hot-spots to develop that might cause some other kind of pre-ignition or detonation. The rotors are so clean that I won't have to dunk them in the cleaner bucket. That has never happened once since I started building RE motors.
My plans on this motor are to replace the 12 corner seals with newer, updated solids, the 6 RA apex seals and springs with 3mm Atkins 2pc seals and stock apex seal springs, the 12 corner seal springs, all 12 side seals w/ new Mazda ones, the oil control ring springs, as well as the oil control ring o-rings. I am also reverting back to the use of stock coolant jacket and dowel pin o-rings and dumping the RA ones. Not replacing any of the crankshaft bearings as I did this 3 years ago. I'm replacing the two outer irons w/ replacement S4 turbo ones and hopefully having them pocket-pinned for additional shear strength. I'm also removing the RB oil pressure regulator and upgrading to an FD3S regulator. Not sure if I'll have to restrict the oil pressure going to the turbo. Since the oil control ring scrapers are finally getting old, I may go ahead and replace those as well.
A couple other things I'm doing -- Replacing the oil pressure feed line to the turbo with a hand-construct -4AN unit, extending a portion of the modified RB oil filter stand, constructing -4AN lines for the wastegate and dumping the blue silicone hoses, as well as replacing the Turbonetics 60-1 HIFI w/ 0.96 A/R P-Trim turbo I had (since now sold) with a Master Power T70 w/ 1.32 A/R P-Trim turbocharger. I've also since upgraded the Alkycontrol nozzle output to use twin M10gph nozzles while replacing the single M15gph one. This will yield 25% more alcohol output as I believe the turbo I'll be switching to will add atleast 20% more power to the motor. I hope to crack 550rwhp and over 400ft/lbs torque on 93 octane/Methanol combination.
Did I mention the seals, springs, and rotors were spotless?
B
----------------------------------------------------------------
The motor is torn all the way down. Here's the low-down:
- Front iron's inner water jacket o-ring (an RA teflon-encapsulated ring) was beginning to split on its teflon jacketting on the combustion side
- 5 flattened corner seal springs on the front rotor
- Two small cracks on the upper dowel land on the front iron plate. Rear iron was fine.
Photos are uploaded. They start from here: http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/ProjectC...bly/?g2_page=2 at image 5246 onward. Got 23 of them uploaded.
For a motor that was built in Mid 2004 and having been run daily since up to the point of breaking in Dec 2006, it is remarkably spotless. There was an extremely small amount of carbon build-up left on either of the two rotors. The rotors are nearly carbon-free with the exception of a few small spots. Also, all of the seals and springs were carbon-free. In the above-linked photos, you can see one of the side seal springs in one of the photos -- it's 100% carbon-free. I believe the alcohol had this profound effect on the internals as nothing else can explain it. The motor had run for 2 years as a daily prior to the introduction of alcohol. In the short 5-odd months or so of running alcohol, and only having it engage in boost, is what I believe cleaned the internals of the motor. The intake ports are spotless as were the exhaust ports along with all of the seals and springs (excluding the oil control ring springs). Simply amazing. The removal of any carbon deposits is a benefit as it removes potential for hot-spots to develop that might cause some other kind of pre-ignition or detonation. The rotors are so clean that I won't have to dunk them in the cleaner bucket. That has never happened once since I started building RE motors.
My plans on this motor are to replace the 12 corner seals with newer, updated solids, the 6 RA apex seals and springs with 3mm Atkins 2pc seals and stock apex seal springs, the 12 corner seal springs, all 12 side seals w/ new Mazda ones, the oil control ring springs, as well as the oil control ring o-rings. I am also reverting back to the use of stock coolant jacket and dowel pin o-rings and dumping the RA ones. Not replacing any of the crankshaft bearings as I did this 3 years ago. I'm replacing the two outer irons w/ replacement S4 turbo ones and hopefully having them pocket-pinned for additional shear strength. I'm also removing the RB oil pressure regulator and upgrading to an FD3S regulator. Not sure if I'll have to restrict the oil pressure going to the turbo. Since the oil control ring scrapers are finally getting old, I may go ahead and replace those as well.
A couple other things I'm doing -- Replacing the oil pressure feed line to the turbo with a hand-construct -4AN unit, extending a portion of the modified RB oil filter stand, constructing -4AN lines for the wastegate and dumping the blue silicone hoses, as well as replacing the Turbonetics 60-1 HIFI w/ 0.96 A/R P-Trim turbo I had (since now sold) with a Master Power T70 w/ 1.32 A/R P-Trim turbocharger. I've also since upgraded the Alkycontrol nozzle output to use twin M10gph nozzles while replacing the single M15gph one. This will yield 25% more alcohol output as I believe the turbo I'll be switching to will add atleast 20% more power to the motor. I hope to crack 550rwhp and over 400ft/lbs torque on 93 octane/Methanol combination.
Did I mention the seals, springs, and rotors were spotless?
B
06-21-2007, 10:32 AM
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06-22-2007, 08:47 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='875858' date='Jun 22 2007, 07:21 AM
sure, i'd love too. how do you detect em before the engine fails?