i guess it comes down to me goin back a few years ago and running 12.0afrs at 21psi boost at 300rwhp for a year and a half of severe severe abuse,harder than i drive the car these days,and that motor was stock with 3mms elas,thats it.



these days i make way more power,but also have a far more conservative tune,less harsh driving style,less overall powerband and hence softer load on engine and water injection and greddy pro plugs etc.all in all its very conservative and still did same damage as my first motor which just took little bit off end of seal when it over boosted to 25psi from 21psi and leaned out to arund 12.6-12.7:1.



i just would have thought with my tune in it now and setup,it shoudl ahev been firther form detonation than that,im not angry or winging,just looking at it from a "what will i try next" approach,that said,i think if there was ny fault this time it was the fuel system that may have let it down being at over 100%.i mean it was on 12psi for 2 months b4 that and was happy as,ran sweet,went well(easy 119mph on 12psi on first attempt),i wonder if i had of left it on 20psi where fuel was not so on limit would it have lived a longer life,guess we will never know now.



oh,bump start,one more thing,forgot to mention it let go at about leak torque in 4th gear(bout 6g),which is also where i have it rich as to allow for 25psi boost,so it actually at the moment it let go had 10 deg timing,probably 90-95% of total fuel system and 9.5afrs.does that change anything?

After market seals are more robust and can take some mistakes, factory ones are touchy most times



Don't fall for the trap



"I haven't got enough money to do it right, but I have enough money to do it twice"



Like I tell the customer, you will have to buy the expensive part in the end anyway, it's just how much money are you going to waste before you realise you need the better part



Just dowel everything and after market apex everything. It's kinda of an insurance policy and it could save you butt.

mate i in all honesty do not trust a rotary to last a huge amount of time anyway.



i will not be dowling it at any stage,its not necessary.i will run a different apex seal if i can gt solid inof on some of them.



this next engine is goin to be bare minimum internals wise as a 'test" engine,then im more than happy to run big $$$ stuff after that,im not putting 7.5G into a fancy block to grenade it while testing the setup,but i do understand ezxactly what u mean,also i have had built fancy motors b4 this and they lasted same time as my stock refreshed one,so im not a huge fan of "fancy" blocks.

thebluerx7, do you have a picture of your rotor housings at the plug area?



Is it carbon stained on the sides of the plug holes?



Any cracks at the hole?



This is what mine look like.



Attachment 18178

nah mate,perfectly clean ,no cracks.



housings are mint(except for damaged rear one obviously)



i dont really have carbon at all as i run water injection.

if you want to fill your trash can, put a straight edge across the rotor housing around the trailing plug hole, seems like the housings like to sag there

mine are perfect,i dont even have any carbon marks or anything on there.