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Hi Guys, May I know is it possible to bring a dead rusted 10 year old 13B-T engine back to normal condition by replacing almost all the things inside the engine? ( E.g. rebuild it with Master rebuild kit from Atkins Rotary )
thanks for the helps friends... |
Originally Posted by asimo' post='924320' date='Jul 14 2009, 03:27 AM
Hi Guys, May I know is it possible to bring a dead rusted 10 year old 13B-T engine back to normal condition by replacing almost all the things inside the engine? ( E.g. rebuild it with Master rebuild kit from Atkins Rotary )
thanks for the helps friends... DEPENDING ON HOW BADLY THE (RUSTED) PARTS ARE TRY CLEANING THEM WITH ATF, MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, SEAFOAM https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif |
Originally Posted by RX200013B' post='924327' date='Jul 14 2009, 12:16 PM
DEPENDING ON HOW BADLY THE (RUSTED) PARTS ARE
TRY CLEANING THEM WITH ATF, MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, SEAFOAM https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif Or, if you can be trusted with exotic materials, try hydrocloric acid. Called Meratic acid at Lowes or similar stores. Very dangerous. Retail stuff is like 1/2% in water. Light yellow color. Use in the a limestone gravel lot. If you spill some the lime stone will neutralize it. Have warm water with baking soda standing by in case of accident. Buy a plastic tub deep enough to submerge the part to be derusted. Remove oils from part with solvent and high pressure water and soap at the car wash. Soak the clean dry part in the Muratic for an hour. Takes Ferris metal down to bare new looking part. When the part looks like you want it to, drain and place in a similar pan full of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. When finished pour baking soda into the Muratic to destroy it. Used to etch concrete prior to painting. Will disolve concrete right out of the bottle. Not for nonferris metal which will turn black and desolve quickly. That means no rotor housings or bearings. Nothing aluminum. Wear face and eye protection. Wear heavy rubber gloves. Stay at 90 degrees to the breeze. Don't block the air moving over the parts, and don't get down wind from the parts. Do not breath the fumes from the cleaning process. This works great when restoring old cars. Do not let animals near it. Lynn E. Hanover |
Originally Posted by RX200013B' post='924327' date='Jul 15 2009, 02:16 AM
DEPENDING ON HOW BADLY THE (RUSTED) PARTS ARE
TRY CLEANING THEM WITH ATF, MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, SEAFOAM https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif looks like really bad...since the engine sits in my uncle's warehouse for not less than 15 years...my uncle sells to me for $300 engine & Manual transmission. well thank alot RX200013b for your help https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif |
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='924336' date='Jul 15 2009, 08:29 AM
Or, if you can be trusted with exotic materials, try hydrocloric acid. Called Meratic acid at Lowes or similar stores.
Very dangerous. Retail stuff is like 1/2% in water. Light yellow color. Use in the a limestone gravel lot. If you spill some the lime stone will neutralize it. Have warm water with baking soda standing by in case of accident. Buy a plastic tub deep enough to submerge the part to be derusted. Remove oils from part with solvent and high pressure water and soap at the car wash. Soak the clean dry part in the Muratic for an hour. Takes Ferris metal down to bare new looking part. When the part looks like you want it to, drain and place in a similar pan full of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. When finished pour baking soda into the Muratic to destroy it. Used to etch concrete prior to painting. Will disolve concrete right out of the bottle. Not for nonferris metal which will turn black and desolve quickly. That means no rotor housings or bearings. Nothing aluminum. Wear face and eye protection. Wear heavy rubber gloves. Stay at 90 degrees to the breeze. Don't block the air moving over the parts, and don't get down wind from the parts. Do not breath the fumes from the cleaning process. This works great when restoring old cars. Do not let animals near it. Lynn E. Hanover Thank you very much Lynn E. Hanover for your detail explaination https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif |
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