I've noticed I can usually get .001" more reading when I put my screwdriver on the outside of the CW vs putting the screwdriver in the middle near the eshaft... If this process in depth down to the .001" of an inch I would think it would be outlined where the hell you put the screwdriver??? And another thing that pisses me off, when using a dial caliper I get lets say 79.85" for a reading. If I squeeze hard I can get it down to 79.79" then If I squeeze really hard 79.76. Wtf is up with that? Seems really unaccurate to me.

Looking at the pic you provided I think the best place to put a pry bar to check end play would be between the flywheel and rear end plate. Your checking the amount of movement between the e-shaft and housing/plates. Putting the pry bar between the counter weight and front housing does nothing for you, the e-shaft is being forced up and the motor is already being forced down. Hope that helps. Or put the motor on it's oil pan part and then try to move the flywheel back and fourth by hand.

chuck

Ok. ReTed mentioned to do it horizontally so I don't have to fight gravity.. I'm almost postive in the atkins rebuild video it shows them doing it on the cw...

have the motor horizontally like mentioned above, like it owudl sit in teh car, then just put the micrometer on the flywheel and grab the flywheel and go back and forth with it, i dont like to use the screwdriver method.

I would imagine the motor in the video is on a stand.

chuck

While the end play could be measured with the engine laying flat on the bench, I think it is more fun, and quite a bit more accurate if the engine is still in the nose down as it was built position on the engine stand. I do it alone so I have to have the stand thing going so I can then lift off the engine with my little wall crane to hang it in the car. But you can do it front plate face down on the bench with some made up bolts with long tubes welded on to support the front iron high enough to clear the stack and front pulley for the end play measurement. You can also build up the stack with just the front stationary gear and the stack and check it that way before you build anything. Put the magnetic base on the number one throw and move the stationary gear. Simple, safe, accurate. Hold the crank in the vice at the center with some rags wrapped around it. Lift the stationary gear, watch the dial.



If you make up the long bolt deal to build on a bench, you can then cut a block of wood to stick under the crank nose to do the center iron angle hell bit. The block of wood does not cut into your beer supply, and does not look away at exactly the wrong time and miss the end piece popping off into that hell you call a floor.



If you are using the stock giant flywheel, leave it off until you are done with the end play deal. Just spin on the nut and lay a 2 X 4 and a piece of a broom stick across the rear iron to pry against. If you have to lift the flywheel with the screw driver, you will not feel the distance close on the bearing, and perhaps become overly enthusiastic with the screw driver.



The amount of force required to get the measurement is no more that you can generate with your hand, pushing the crank for and aft, or lifting it with your knee while in the stand. I don't like the term "pry" as it makes it sound as though a large amount of force is OK when doing this. It is not. You are not supposed to be measuring how far you can bend the thrust plate, or one of the counter weights. Just the bearing clearance.



If it it is not enough end play (.002") ( Racing Beat says .0015" is OK) at the stock torque, you need a longer spacer. If it is too much with the stock torque (87 pounds) increase the torque and measure again. You can go as high as 120 pounds without damage. If there is still too much (over .0035") you need a shorter spacer. The higher torque makes the stack a bit stiffer, and an over tensioned belt may not kill the engine.



I threw away the long bolt deal when I built the engine stand. If anyone wants to see it I will make up another and provide pictures and a drawing. The only problem is that you end up with a 250 pound engine standing on its nose, and still need help moving it. My first race is a week away and my time is running short.



As far as how much force is required to get the correct reading on a dial caliper, try measuring an item of a known size, and get used to using "that amount" of force on the caliper to establish repeatability on that item. Start with feeler gages.



Leave the beer alone until after the engine is complete.



Lynn E. Hanover

Good info Thxs Lynn. And Yes the beer always waits till the job is done.

when you measure stuff like this you have to get a feel for the actual measureing stuff. feeler guages are a great example, how tight should they be before you move to the next size? a good rule of thumb is to be gentle

(SNIP)



You're fricken crazy! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



-Ted