Hello all. I have a month before I start to take my engine apart and start porting. I have been doing a bit of research but have not come across much 6 port turbo ports for .... obvious reasons. (there arnt many people people turboing NA engines)



Anyways I was wondering if there were any tips or rules I should be looking for as far as a street port for a 6 port. Is it pretty much the same as a turbo 4 port or is there more to it? Here are a few of my ideas I have been tossing around as I day dream at work. I'm sure some of these are bad ideas but other then just saying "no it wont work" could you explain why? That is the only way I will really be able to figure out what I am looking for. I am looking for an OK idle ok gas milage (15 mpg is fine I get 23 mpg on my turbo na right now(highway)) and I don't want to have only power after 6000 rpm. I will be getting the engine balanced but I don't think I have enough money to be able to make the engine able to handle 9000 redlines while drifting. Here are the ideas I have been throwing around in my head. Most have to do with getting rid of the center section between the ports.



Stock ports

https://i172.photobucket.com/albums/...91NAWhite9.jpg



Showing the areas possible for porting I think:

https://i172.photobucket.com/albums/...mes/report.jpg



Showing what leaving the middle thing but porting close to it

https://i172.photobucket.com/albums/...es/report3.jpg



Big port ( I think it could get a little bigger if I went more to the outside red)

https://i172.photobucket.com/albums/...es/report4.jpg



Just the middle section gone

https://i172.photobucket.com/albums/.../report5-1.jpg

so with all of this are you still going to keep the 5th'6th port inserts or are you going to ditch them and try to run it as a large 4 port ?

I have already ditched them because I am running a turbo setup. Would this just be a large street port or would there be other issues like only power after 10,000 rpm?

imo i would the only real change id make, is to not close the ports later, open em early, make em bigger, but the 6 ports already close late, and with a turbo you dont really need later closing. later closings going to move the peak power up, and this is good na, but not really needed in a turbizzle

This is sort of what I am doing. Using 6 Port END Plates



T2 Center Section and Rotors and Housing.



Talked to Rob over @ Pineapple Racing this last week (He pressed my bearings in for me). And he thinks I am crazy.



I am using Pineapple Racing Templates as well.



The 6 port is much like a bridge ported motor. A huge amount of additional intake timing for the cost of swaping in some plates.



More here:



My Project Zuki



I am hoping to make this done in 30 days...

that website is crazy. And you sir are also crazy. Congrats on everything you have done so far. Amazing.



Anyways, I have a few questions specifically wondering why you chose certian parts. Why did you choose the t2 center housing? I understand the t2 rotors for lower compression, but any reason you chose the t2 housings?



Do you have any more pictures on how much the template takes off of the stock port? I would like to see exactly what it is doing, either opening earlier, staying open later, or just making the port bigger?



Do you think the haltech is required? Do you really like that EMS? opinions on it?



Any dyno results on any of the past builds you have done with the engine before it was turboed? Or do you have it running turboed now?



THANKS and you are awesome! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

may I ask also, why the 3rd gen flywheel?

The T2 center plate has a LARGER port then the N/A Motor. So I choose to use it and also port it via Pineapples template. The N/A Port has a TINY port on it.



http://www.daczone.com/TS4010250.JPG

Stock N/A Center Port



http://www.daczone.com/TS4010248.JPG

Stock Turbo Center Port



I'll have to look at home, But I did the mid-level port from Pineapple. Not yet finished with my exhaust ports. Also running a 3" downpipe so this thing really flows. It's lighter than a RX7 and has a 5.125:1 rear gear ratio.



Using the Haltech because it's a motor swap... Would have taken much more work to transfer over the wiring. The Haltech is outstanding. I use it for NOS control and my shift light. It's costly, but allowed me to run 16 PSI of boost on this motor.



I had a very tired motor. It was very fast, but According to my Gtech was only putting out 220 HP. When I blew my apex seal I had no compression on the front and rear rotor. It should have continued to run on the front rotor, so I don't think it was putting out the amount of power it should have.



I know it looks a little crazy, but it's streetable and super fun to drive. People look... and Stare, but that's part of the fun.



1st to 2nd shifts were insane under WOT.



I'm pretty sure with some slicks the thing would lift the front end.

Because it's lighter than the Turbo2 and made of steel.



I got a heck of a deal on it too... It's been surfaced and looks brand new.



20 lbs. Vs. 23 or 27 for the Turbo II

I've always wanted to build a six port turbo but one ported like this one http://www.yawpower.com/dec2004.html maybe one day when I'm bored.