So i just rebuilt my 13b 4 port gsl se that was running before in my datsun510. I rebuilt it because it overheated. Anyways i put the engine together with new seals the works from atkins and im trying to sort out some bugs on the car becuase when i drive or rev the car it starts to miss around 3.5k. The car has about 200 miles, but i can't get the timing right, i know that the pulley needs to be at the first TDC mark and the key way in the crank needs to be at 9 oclock. Then you line up the dots on the distributor shaft and slide it in and i always it up right. But when i start the engine and go to time the car, the timming is off. I have tried to time it about 7 times and i dont get it. Also on my distributor cap, the terminal where the trailing coil plugs into is burned on the inside side of the cap. Why would it burn because it sems like when i put a new cap on it that it will just burn that terminal. The car runs good when you drive it kepping it under 3.4k, but if you try to accelerate to 4k it will start to miss around 3.5k, and i know the timing is off because i cant get the mark to line up. soooo.... car is equiped with holley from racing beat, porting, racing beat header and exhaust, distributor but without the points...



Im going to try putting the distributor in with the dimples aligned so it will be a tooth forward and then a toothbackwards if i have to and try to time the car like that. But then if the car times on the right marks like that then how come its like that when it shouldn't be. Any input would be great. Im going to get some pictures up here soon.



[attachment=45097:IMG_0394.JPG]



This is an old picture, when i had just put the engine in, about 2 months ago. before the car was running. koyo 3rd gen rx7 radiator with spal fan installed, and 1st gen oil cooler.

Did you make sure that you put the timing gear on correctly when you reassembled the "front stack"?



Is the distributor locked?



Are you using an actual timing light?

distributer is not locked, and i am using a timming light. The gears only go on one way if im right, because everything has to line up in the key way. You just have to worry about stacking the parts and bearing right which i did.

the dizzy gear has a bevel on one side, and that faces the rear of the engine. it is possible to put it on backwards, not really sure what that does to the timing.



also when you line up the marks on the dizzy, its not too hard to knock it a tooth off installing it, that might be the problem...



if it was my car, and you're sure the timing marks on the pulley are right, then id just put the dizzy in until it was right.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif oh no timing is wrong

1 turn motor to tdc

2 line dots up on dizzy and fit(dont fit vacume lines to dizzy leave them blocked off at this stage)

3 start engine (at this stage timing will be wrong)

4 attach timing light to leading no1 check and adjust

5 attach timing light to trailing no1 check and adjust

6 with vacume lines still disconected rev engine and check mechanial advance works

7 use a mtivac or similar conect to dizzy vacume line and check vacume advance

8 hook up vacume lines close bonet and spin wheels

9 if bp motor lock mechanical and vacume set timing around 18 (may want to check that 18 may be wrong)



if still not good repost ill sort you out https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

by the way what porting cause that is critcal to decide on timinig bp you lock leading and trailing together and lock mechanical advance so its solid and dont use vacume advance

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

My car has a streetport, Anyways i timmed my car the way you told me to and its timmed right. But i still have a problem with it. My car still wont rev about 4k. Around 3.5k it starts to miss. I dunno what to try to replace. I do know that at idle both my leading and trailing plugs are all firing, I tested that by using my timming light and veryifing that the plugs are firing. Im thinking that maybe i have a bad coil? or maybe some bad wiring from swaping the engine into my datsun510? Car runs good untill you try to get it past 4k, any suggestions?

fuel filter?

fuel filtre and fuel pump are good. By the way im running a racing beat carb with a holley blue pump, I think my problem is more ignition related, or some wiring issue.

anyone know where i can get some wiring diagrams? 85 13b gsl se.

whats the cap rotor and leads like? is it points or electronic if its points check the gap and replace the condeser as these can give all sorts of strange probs also check to make sure coil is gettting battary voltage if its a 12v coil if it is ballsast type it should be around 6 to 8 volts check for voltage drop to the coil (needs to be done with circuit running) are the leading and trailing around right way is the advance side of things working ie mechancle advance and vacume if these are not working and engine is running retarded up in rev range it will be flat hope i have shed some light

again, I have little experience with rotaries, but this should be true with any 4-cycle. Once the engine is modified, you can throw out all the OEM timing and electrical settings. OEM is designed for compromises like MPG, emissions, sound, temp, longevity, etc. For modified V8's:

1.Start engine, if it spins easily, timing is retarded, Advance the dist a little, repeat, repeat until it is hard to start, back off 2-3 degrees. (this is independent of the actual timing mark numbers). You can use this set up to test if you're marks are off, and check the advance. (if advance if working well, engine may start knocking at high rpm.)



This is the highest initial timing you can have. You engine should run fine above 4k. That is the purpose of the mechanical advance, easy starting and progressive timing with rpm. But if you modified the ports your timing curve will be 'not optimal'.



but if everything is working correctly and installed correctly my vote is coil or carb. Holley's make excellent power, but they are a bitch to tune and fail easily.



Note: early say pre-90's cars timing marks were routinely off -4 to 4 degrees, that's why knowing how to degree cam based on actual TDC and valve opening was such a science (v8's). I never use factory timing marks anymore.