Just rebuilt my FD engine and just want to make sure I have the rotors timed right, they are 180degs out from each other.

A tip is at 12o'clock on the front rotor and a tip at 6o'clock



Is that right??

Generally, if you don't need a big hammer to get the rotor housing on it, the timing is fine.



After a few times, you just stick them on, and it looks right and it is, and you are a builder.



Later you can lay them in with the apexes at the sides, so as to make the center iron go on a bit easier.



You can make a bracket that clamps to the engine stand that stops the crank at just engaged in the rotor bearing for installing the center iron. After you have done a few, you can use one knee for this and forget the bracket.



With no stand, you can buy long bolts for the front cover bolt holes. Tighten the bolts against long pieces of tubing to make them stiff enough. Long enough for the crank nose to just clear the bench. When it is time for the center iron to go on, you stick a block of wood under the crank nose

and hold it up high enough to slip the iron on. Or you can make up a set of brackets to hold the front iron to a square piece of 3/4" plywood to form the stand. This also provides handles for when you put the engine on the creeper by yourself. Or, better yet with you friends.



Lynn E. Hanover

I have it all together, since it is my first rotray rebuild I had a few things on my mind and when I left it last night I was thinking if I had timed the rotors right, since I moved the eccentric shaft to the 2o'clock position, I'm sure I moved it back to 6o'clock. But you know what its like.



So at the moment I have the tip of the rear at 12o'clock and the tip of the front at 6o'clock.



Is this right??? The engine is together and bolted up now, just the long block so I can see in the exhaust ports.

Are you talking about the tips on the opposite side of the rotor from the gear? I think the tips help break up the oil spray as it enters the rotor to cool it. Or maybe it has something to do with the hot oil as it leaves the rotor's inards. I call them drip tips but I don't know the correct term. I place them 180° apart out of habit.



I solved my issue with the center iron using a scizzor jack. Now I can raise the shaft and lower it in a controlled manor. It's much less stressful than the old way.

I must be explaining it wrong sorry guys.



Right here goes.



I need to know if I have the timing right regarding the rotors and the ignition timing and the injection timing.



How can I tell??? if the E shaft is set to TDC or BDC where should the front and rear rotors be in relation.

I would check the book on what has to be timed with the crank and how its done. Even if you have to consult the library. You must have a book of some kind, yes?



The front rotor is at TDC when the keyway in the crank is at 90 degrees on the Passenger side of the engine. That would be the 9:00 oclock position looking from the front of the engine. The front rotor has an apex seal between the intake ports and the exhaust ports. The two remaining apex seals are one above the other exactly on the plug side. The rear rotor has an apex seal between the plug holes. The rear counter weight is between the plugs on the rear housing.



Is that what you wanted?



Lynn E. Hanover

thanks lynn, perfect.

Just checked it and its bang on.



Thanks for your help.

Won't the Rotors only go in one possition with the E-shaft in place?

yep, unless your hammer is that big