I only have about 25k miles on my current rebuild which I have pulled the engine because of O-ring failure. I will oder Atkins video to see what kind of insane project it is to rebuild myself. I know I still need the gasket kit at about $1500 but if I can save another $1k on labor, then that will go to my T04Z fund.



Anyhow with only 25k mi since the Mazda reman/rebuild I don't even see the point of changing Apex seals or rotor housings (unless warped) but I would want to port.



Any comments, sugestions, recomendations? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png



At this rate i'm going to miss 7Stock. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

Wait... $1500 just for a gasket kit? You can get gasket kits for like $270 from the nopistons.com store... Check it out, dude. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/cool.png

pull it apart and see, if they used good or cherry used housings in your motor you should be fine. i have some real piles of crap for mana motors though



mike

I don't think we are talking about the same things. The rebuild kit is $1500 and probably includes apex seals but I can't remember. The gasket kit is $500 from Mazdatrix which every race shop except for them does not include in the price of a rebuild. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png

What exactly will you be replacing? I recently rebuilt my engine for the cost of an oil ring kit and one apex seal...The oil ring kit only cost $100~ Which is basically all you'll need engine wise.

Seriously, check out this section of the store, you'll be pleasantly surprised https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I only had o-ring failure. All I need to replace are the o-rings "unless" a housing is warped. I have less then 25k mi on this motor, although it was a Mazda reman/rebuild. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

Who knows what susprise you have in store for you https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png Start praying now!

I agree with todd, its like opening a letter telling you if you have cancer or not. You may open it up and find that just a O-ring kit is needed, or you may open it up and find that the rotors look like somone has been using them to pound roofing nails all summer. Its a shot in the dark each time. I personally have been able to tear down 5 at the shop, and each time you hold your breath lifting off the plates to see what goodies are in store. Good luck, you will definately need to be careful though.

Thanks for the replys. I ordered the new "how to rebuild your rotary engine" form Atkins and hopefully i'll be able to open it this weekend. If i'm lucky I can just replace the water o-rings. If not i'll do some porting. I have no idea what i'm getting myself into but I want to drive my 7 to 7stock.

Well just the o-rings is duable (i think). The hardest part looks to be removing/reinstalling the flywheel. Does anyone where where to buy that huge socket?



The apex seals requires "alot" of attention to detail but I won't mess with the rotors (didn't have compression problems anyhow).



I can actually see the orange o-rings squeezing through the cracks in between the housings and I have no idea if it means their warped or the Mazda assembly people were retarded.



I can't test any of the housings for warpage, so i'm not sure if i'll take those to a shop for testing or not.



The very last step testing the excentric shaft for play, which I can't do either.

if you can actually see the O rings (theres a gap between the housings) you might have tension bolts that came loose and/or broke.

buy a 2 1/8" socket from sears

And a 3' steel pipe extender from Home depot

It will look good when ya finished....

I seem to recall saying this in another post recently....



It's silicone RTV that is used with the coolant seals during assembly that you're seeing "squeezing" out between the housings.



I have NEVER ever seen a coolant seal get pushed out between housings in over 50 motors that I've done... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Mind you, we are talking about rotaries here, so anything's possible! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

If you have a true surface (machined to be flat) and some feeler gauges you can check for warpage. If you don't have a true surface, go to a machine shop and have them make one for you. They are easy to make, so it should be cheap. If you don't have feeler gauges, GET SOME, you shouldn't be rebuilding your engine without the proper tools.



Buy a stand and a dial indicator, they are not that expensive, and they have many uses. If you rebuild your motor another time the purchase will be more than worth it.

I'm rebuilding my engine with 113k miles. how important are the tests for wear if the only problem was a blown apex seal? i'd rather not buy precision measuring tools if i'm only gonna use them once. would it be risky to just do the visual inspection and feeler gauge tests on the rotors and housings?

You could get away with it, but you never know. I mean, it's your money, so if it is worth it to you to risk another rebuild, then go for it. I don't think I would do it without checking. See if any of your friends have any of the tools.



If you are gonna have this car for awhile, or you are gonna have more rotary vehicles, the tools would be a good idea to pick up as you could use them forever....you could always sell them on ebay when you sell your rotary vehicle, or include them with the sale https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

usually if it passes the visual tests its good, but once and a while you can get bit



mike

How do you mount the block on to the engine stand? I know I will probably have to buy the adapter plate from Pineapple or Mazdatrix but from the pix i've seen the engine mounted on the side. I don't understand how you can dissasemble the housings this way. If the flywheel side has to be up, then shouldn't the block be attached to the end housing? ...and how do you mount it with the flywheel up instead of horizontal?

Racing Beat (complete-seals, springs, o-rings) rebuild kit 93-95 turbo 13B Part # 30017 $1,360.00

Nopistons Store (Atkins complete-seals 2mm or 3mm($234.99), springs($59,99), o-rings($399.99)) rebuild kit 93-95 13B



Total=$694.97 Plus I bet Scott will rape you way less on shipping and handling https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Actualy RB is 10 min from me, so shipping but I do get taxed. They don't list everything in the kit but it's all gaskets, apex, side, corner & rotor oil seals, o-rings, F/R main seals, evrything that should be replaced. I don't know how JSpecRacer did it for $100? ...I think he only replaced hte water o-rings. There's also DP, turbo, exhaust manifold gaskets. It probably doesn't include all the nuts but I should call and ask and write it down.

You could call Scott and ask him what is all included in the kits in the store. I'm just trying to save you some money man, you do whatever you need to do.

Get an O-ring kit, new apex seals and new long and short apex seal springs and new corner seal springs. You should be able to reuse the side seals, side seal springs and corner seals unless there has been water sitting in the engine. This will rust the corners seals very quickly, but you may be able to clean them up. It would be a good Idea for you to take off the intake manifold now and pour some oil down each runner and turn the engine over a few times adding a little oil ever 1/2 turn of the engine for 1 1/2 turns so you get each side of each rotor, then spin it around a few rotations with out adding any more oil to mix it up a bit and then let it sit for a few days or more. This will loosen up and rust/carbon and make it easier to disassemble and clean up. also make yourself two boxes with 6 small sections labeled 1-6 with a f on one of them and a r on the other so you can keep track of the rotor parts and put them back where they are supposed to go. Also go to the rebuild section of the forum and look at the tips and tricks and posts on rebuilding and learn as much as you can. Good Luck...

Thanks Dragon, hopefully I will get that far.



Ok, so I didn't buy the engine stand adapter from Mazdatrix ($90) so my stand is useless (D'oh). Can I just sit the engine on it's (pully) side on the floor in the garage?

No. Get the adapter. You'll definitely need it to re-assembly it.

I think Van is spoiled. You don't "need" to do it on an engine stand, but after the first time you build an engine on one you will swear that you do. I've used old beer crates with holes cut in them, and two cinder blocks worked OK to.

ok, i'll tried the piano mover kart thing. It's pretty close to Iggy's beer crate idea, but on wheels. So now i'm stuck again. I forgot to have the nut on the front housing zapped off. Now when I try to take it off it just spins! Is there a way other then an air wrench to get it off?

Yeah, I forgot you did that with your first motor.



So what if I'm spoiled? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

you'll need a fly wheel lock to get the 54mm off the back side and the front e-shaft bolt off or one hell of a impact. If you've already taken off the 54, put the flywheel back on and then screw the 54 on finger tight to put on the flywheel lock and then just pull it back off once you've got the front bolt out.

ok, i bought the fw lock (fr MTrix) and roled the block to GoodYear and asked them to zap it. He tried but it never budged. He tried a bigger gun and still no luck. We tried my breaker bar, but no breaky. We tried a ratchet/wrench and a 3' pipe for an extension and broke the wrench. Do I have to use dynomite and blow it open?

I use a 3/4" breaKer bar and socket with a 6ft pipe to get them loose...

It is not an easy bolt, for future reference, loosen the front nut first before the flywheel.

I can check Home Depot for a 6' pipe but then i'd still need at least one other person to stand on the engine or i'll pole vault it through the roof.



My broNlaws friend that custom builds roadsters & classic cars or anything for big bucks said he could take if off with nitrous. So my question is, will 1000psi destroy the bolt (or anything else) if it's only for a second?

Mate.



Put the motor back together without the rotors. Front plate, housing, dowels, centre plate, dowels, rear housing, rear plate. Use a few through bolts and do them up. This will only take five minutes. Loosely put the flywheel back on (don't forget the woodruff key) and tighten the rear nut by hand. Then lock the flywheel whichever way you feel is best (a friend can help- there are many ways of doing this. I use a specific tool called a flywheel brake that bolts on to the rear housing through one of the bellhousing bolt holes and locks up agains the flywheel teeth.



Get a breaker bar on the front nut and then get a bit of four foot wood (sturdy stuff) and whack the **** out of the breaker bar. The front nut should come straight off. Sometimes just kicking the bar good and hard will do it. Especially if you're a fta bastard like me! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif



This will only take 20 minutes tops. I do it by myself and learnt to take the nut off first after the first time!

Not only am I fat, but also dyslexic... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png