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-   Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/)
-   -   Problems With Oil Pressure Regulator Swap (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/problems-oil-pressure-regulator-swap-34638/)

CarmonColvin 03-01-2004 08:06 PM

I know the oil jet mods are my problem. I figured that out the day I started it up for the first time. I replaced the regulator hoping it would be a bandaid for the problem. I know the only real fix is to replace the oil jets or swap to a high volume oil pump.



I am a bit hesitant to pull the front cover off the motor to get to the oil pump with the motor still in the car. I know that the needle bearings can fall out of place when the front pulley is removed if the motor is not inverted.



I will eventually swap to a high volume oil pump but I am lazy and still in the middle of a nightmare home remodeling project so it will probably be later in the summer before I try it.



I have lived with low oil pressure for a few months so I can deal with it for a few more.



Thanks for all the input.

mazdaspeed7 03-01-2004 08:36 PM


Originally Posted by CarmonColvin' date='Mar 1 2004, 10:06 PM
I am a bit hesitant to pull the front cover off the motor to get to the oil pump with the motor still in the car. I know that the needle bearings can fall out of place when the front pulley is removed if the motor is not inverted.

Ive had the front cover off countless times with the engine in the car, and its not an issue at all. Just be careful, and double check it before you put everything back together. You are goign to need to take off nearly everything up to the thrust bearings to get the oil pump chain off anyways. When you assemble it, just make sure the bearings are sitting properly, and be careful not to rock the ecc shaft arount much when putting things back together. If youre really worried, you can wedge your clutch pedal down, which will keep the ecc shaft pushed all the way forward.

Pistonproof 11-26-2016 06:24 PM

Re: Problems With Oil Pressure Regulator Swap
 

Originally Posted by CarmonColvin (Post 460845)
Grrrr... Mission Accomplished but deemed a complete failure!



I went to Sears and bought a standard 26 mm socket and Kahren was correct it would fit even though the clearance between the regulator and the rear housing is tight. I torqued it down, cleaned the oil pan up applied the gasket in a tube and bolted everything up. The Permatex blue I used said it cured in 24 hours. I pushed the car out side and let it sit overnight.



Today when I got back from helping MPM get his car started I put oil in and started it up. Within seconds I had 60psi of pressure (at ~3000 rpm) I was excited that I had fixed my oil problem. The RPMs dropped to around 900 and the oil pressure settled to around 35. Everything was great until the engine got up to full temperature. My oil pressure slowly dropped to around 10psi. I could rev it up and see as much as 60+ on the gauge but at idle for a few minutes and I would have only around 10.



Is it possible that my oil cooler is clogged up and when the bypass opens up it is so restrictive that it robs all of my pressure?



I suppose my problems go back to my engine build. Because of a tight budget I decided to use the old oil pump. Even though it speced out to tighter clearance than suggested in the Turrentine Video a new one would of been stronger. And I also should not of done the oil jet modifications. When I decided to do that I had not read about any oil pressure problems as a result of that mod from any other forum members.



I am NOT going to pull this motor just to replace the oil pump unless it completely quits and I am definately not pulling the motor apart just to replace the oil jets with stock ball and springs.



Hrm.. I suppose I will start using a heavier weight of oil and possibly have the oil cooler flushed out.

This is day one stuff and assuming you haven't checked, check the pick ups not comprised and is letting air in somewhere or blocked?


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