i plan to do a streetport on my 79 12a sometime in the future and was wondering-what templates are the best? I've seen some at racing beat and mazdatrix, but is there a big difference in them? Can I get them from somewhere else?

as far as I know, those are the same pieces

templates show you the outside shape, but most of the portwork is done where you can't see.

I want to know as well which way to go with porting on my 13B rew (FD3S). I'm planning to port it in function of a streetable car with non seq turbo's and no emission controls, later to be switching to a GT35R single Turbo.



I want a port but want to keep control of emission through my PFC and useable for street use.

Like Guitarjunkie said, the template is only a small input into the total end product. Just because its bigger does not neccasarily make it better. The final results of the port job are only as good as the person doing the porting.

Ok I totally understand. But all oher mods can be bolted on. Porting is a job you need to do wnet the engine is open.

OK the port job it's self is a significant factor as well but with some good advise and preparation(eye for detail) nothing inposible.



I just wonder which kind of streetporting will allow idle to be at a close to stock ratio (not jumping or unpleasantly high).

Which will go best with the powerband of a non seq or 'small' (GT35R) sinle setup. Low rpm powerband that is.

All in all a failry stock engine behaviour with the extra flowing capacity to make a GT35R to it's 'allmost' full potential ('full' will need extra race-mods which will interfere with the goal of this project).

That's just not an easy question to answer. First off opinions differet but secondly trying to accurately convey a shape by just typing a description up just isn't terribly detailed. By saying "not big" isn't terribly descriptive. I personally say leave the opening side alone and only go up. At least that tells you one side as you just don't touch it. Others will tell you to open it earlier though. If you don't hae a degree wheel then telling you port timing isn't going to help much either. Then it still doesn't show you the shape underneath the port window as it transitions into the runners. The closest thing you can do to give you a semblance of stock performance is to stay stock or very near it. The best thing to do is to actually meet with an engine builder and go over what you want with them. It's just hard to do over the internet.

my not having a flowbench/way to test results/pass smog/not wanting to build xxx motors just for testing is to not do much porting at all. i clean the casting flash off the runners, maybe port up a tad, but other than that leave lone, it does work stock afterall.

SMART-ASS REPLY: BUT Pineapple Racing sez a Flowbench is useless. :End uinsolicited sarcasm

I have had monster street ported motors. The question you ask is asked everytime a new owner wants to get HP out of the motor. The idea that porting will make your car stumble around and lope like a V8 with big ass valves and a ported head is not the case. Actual low end loss or street hassle on a street port is negligable to most any owner. I can say NA monstor bridge and PP are whole different matter.

Its my belief that since you going through the time and money to break apart the motor, buy templates go ahead and read alot and make them nice and big. Then support this with the proper set up.

This motor is not like a sick 10 second V8 at the light. the difference between 780 RPM and 1000 is nothing especially since you engage at a much higher RPM to engage the clutch.

Its my experience that the over all performance gains offset what you think could be a hassle when in reality afterwards you may say "**** this nothing , I should have done a nice large port."

However, the larger the more experience needed to design them correctly.

IMO

PS: pic is of my NA four port with a 50mm Haltech. This wasnt a hassle at all as a daily driver.