Alright, ive gotten pretty steady with my dremel, i try to use it atleast 1hr every day before i work and its really helped.



However i am currently working on my bridge and am cutting the 'eyebrow' and keep running into the same problem. As i get my bit down in my almost complete eyebrow sometimes it will bounch off one side and start to viberate violently from side to side uncontroably and i have to pull it out hoping it doesnt slide across the housing



Anyeone else have this problem? Im using carbid burs from home depot right now, i would use sanding bits but i cant find any that are long and skinny that would alow me to get in there. I have about 40 pics of this first port but there on a normal camara, and im to broke to develop the film



-Jacob

Summit porting kit



https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../sum-g1060.jpg



This porting kit is available through summit racing, and has the sanding drums your looking for. Dragon has this, its cheap and has all the sanding drums you would need to do a port job on your engine.

Thanks!!!



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

It also helps if you use the proper tools.

You should be using a pneumatic rotary tool and not a dremel.

Dremels have that tendency to bouce around.

Not everybody has access to an air compressor, so using a Dremel may be his only option at the moment. With a dremel you also have the option of having the attachment wand, which is far easier to handle than the dremel itself or a die grinder that is blowing cold air all over the place.



I will warn you, the supplied chucks in the kit are 1/4 for a drill (but conviently fit my die grinder.

you can probably make a dremel more stable by adding some weight to the body of it.

I have use a Makita die grinder for porting. It works great with the 25,000 rpms that it spins at.

I don't like the air tool because I find it hard to maintain a constant speed while keeping a steady grip on the tool. Its all I have to work with right now along with a dremel.

I THINK, if you are going to use the dremel tool you should buy the flex shaft, instead of trying to balance the whole dremel tool trying to do delicate work. You would probably able to get better control if you used a flex shaft

I have air tools (there also in my bedroom oddly, so using them isnt a problem) But i also have the problem keeping my air grinder at a useable speed while working with it. Maby using a regulator would help, hmm ill think about that



Ill go to homedepot tommrow and see what a flexshaft is going to set me back, if its not bad ill pick one up and give it a try



What do you mean by adding weight to the body of my dremel? When you say that i picture random tools ductaped to my dremel.



One thing i did find that helped is shortining the shank on the bits that i dont need to be long helped out quite a bit



-Jacob

something like that, lead or something strapped to the body. it will be less twitchy if it is heavier, think of the weight as a damper, the same input won't accelerate it as quickly when heavier. Of course, if it's heavier, if it gets moving, it will take more to make it stop moving too.

Here is what has been good for me. Grinding on the right side of the bit going down, or left side going up, high speed with light/medium presure. Hope the pic of the bit comes out.

chuck

Ya. What I wanted to mention is: pressure

You control the dremel with speed and the pressure you apply to the work itself. If you hold the tool with a firm grip and guide it toward your porting surface you should be able to control the vibration you mentioned.

PK797 NYC

anyone have the info on which bits id need..

picked up the dremel with flex to practice on old housings...