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-   -   Porting Is A Little Harder Than I Thought.. (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/porting-little-harder-than-i-thought-36221/)

Fd3BOOST 03-27-2004 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' date='Mar 26 2004, 08:24 AM
Dremels suck for porting. I use a 1/4" die grinder with carbide bits for rough porting, and an 1/8" pencil die grinder for the detail work. 70K rpm, it doesnt overheat, and its small and easy to control.

Exactly!

The reason your having such a hard time is because your using the wrong tools.



You need a pneumatic die grinder and carbide burrs.

I have never even heard of a shop porting with a dremel.

rx7_re, There is a right and wrong way and the dremel is the wrong way.



Here are the links so that you can buy the right tools.

Die grinders for sale



Carbide Burrs





One good link to an idex of the different burrs. You need double cut burs for the housings and a single cut burr for the exhaust ports.

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/burrs/solid/

sleeper7 03-27-2004 09:59 AM

I disagree with the dremel being bad. I use it all the time at home. When I have access to air I do use a die grinder. Both are good but both need practise and using the right bit for differant metals helps.

chuck

1Revvin7 03-27-2004 11:06 AM

I ordered some burrs from enco. I have an angled die grinder that should work well.

rx7turbo1 04-25-2004 12:06 PM

Last night, I had my first STAB at the primary intake ports. And they turned out great. I used a 1/4" Die Grinder with cross-cut carbide bits made by Ingersoll-Rand to shape the port. I was able to work 90% of all angles with great precision. The dremel was also useful because of it's size. I was able to squeeze in the tight places to sand/polish the corners.



The two tips I can offer, which I found very effective:



#1 Control your cutting speed, to a nice slow speed. Almost to the point where you bog out the cutter when you get on it. I found doing this with a 1/4" die grinder is a bitch, On-Off-On-Off, so I used a piece of rubber coolant line to put on the underside of the lever. This gave me great control over the variable speed, and will avoid a lot of 'OH ****'s' where the cutter gets away from you. You can't get a 3 speed dremel low enough in the RPM's to cut with carbide easily. So if you buy one, the variable speed cordless dremels are awesome, but then you are stuck with the tiny bits...



#2 Shape the port at exact angles, not like you are cutting hair.. I drew the template and cut to the outer edge at a 15-20deg angle. Then I shaved down at greater angles each pass until it looked like a machine made the cuts. I found this helped a lot with port matching and precision.



If you ask me, I'd say the exhaust ports are the easiest to port. I'd keep practicing on those with better tools. Then go to the intake ports. Good Luck!



-Brad

1Revvin7 04-25-2004 12:56 PM

I got to use a friends electric die grinder with a flex shaft and foot speed control. That is Super nice! Having the right bits helps a ton also. 2" bits just don't work well at all. 4-6" would be optimal.

Rob x-7 04-25-2004 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by rx7turbo1' date='Apr 25 2004, 01:06 PM
#1 Control your cutting speed, to a nice slow speed. Almost to the point where you bog out the cutter when you get on it. I found doing this with a 1/4" die grinder is a bitch, On-Off-On-Off, so I used a piece of rubber coolant line to put on the underside of the lever.

why not adjust the air pressure going into the tool to control the

speed of the die grinder and prevent any over revving?



revvin- you can get long carbide bits for the die grinder


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