Well alright engine building guru's...



I don't need help rebuilding the engine. I need help with the oil pan. HOW THE HELL DO I STOP IT FROM LEAKING FROM THE MOTOR MOUNTS?!?!?!?!?! I've built 3 motors so far and ALL THREE of them leak at both motor mounts! The last engine I put in(one week old engine) I was super duper careful with the oil pan. I cleaned up the engine REAL nice and scrubbed and cleaned the oil pan for almost an hour. Then I applied an even coat of high temp sealant to the oil pan and tightened the bolts down, then let her sit overnight. Then I put the engine in and had a few minor oil leaks here and there(turbo return line and a small one on the front cover)...but all of them got fixed...EXCEPT FOR THE MOTOR MOUNTS!!!



I have absolutely NO luck with keeping the oil pan sealed....SO....What's the trick?

You need to shim the motor mounts against the oil pan.

Youcan use RTV on some fender washers and that should do the trick.

Also use RTV when putting the bolts in the motor mounts.

you gotta put a crap load of sealer on those pans. total you need to use almost the whole tube, the whole back part of the pan needs to be gooped and so does the motor mount to oil pan surface and put a bunch of goop on the motor mount bolts. and then you need to tighten everything and let it sit for at least 12 hours (24 is better) before it sees oil



mike

I used the whole can of RTV. What do you mean "shim the motor mounts"?

hmmm...I gooped the motor mount area with almost half the tube of RTV, but didn't put any on the motor mount bolts themselves.



So....you think I could pull the motor mount bolts out, RTV them and then re-install them?

hmmm...I gooped the motor mount area with almost half the tube of RTV, but didn't put any on the motor mount bolts themselves.



So....you think I could pull the motor mount bolts out, RTV them and then re-install them? [/quote]

that depends, do ya feel lucky?



i think you could do it, if you can get all the oil out of there, goop doesnt like oil when its wet



mike

brake clean is your friend. Pull the bolts and clean the holes. Goop them up and torque them down.



Mine is good so far but its only been 3 days https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I put RTV on the threads, don't hold back. Is the problem the oil pan, is it the same one leaking everytime?

I had this same problem recently it turned out the rear plate had a slight crack in the threads, what i did to make do was pulled the mount off drained the pan and sprayed the crap out of it with brake cleaner and air until it was completely dry, I also don't know what RTV your using but over the years i've found Hondabond works really well, I put it on the threads in the plate around the edge of the pan where it meets the block, on the mount and on the head of the bolt so that all contact surfaces are covered, it worked. If you have access to the riht tools you could also o-ring the mounts, that works as well.



-sean

This is OT, but jspecracer7, I sent you a PM a few days ago.

Here's what you do:



- Assemble the engine (or do your oil pan job) with the engine on a stand with it upside-down

- Using brake cleaner (as another poster mentioned) and a scotchbrite pad, clean the heck out of the surfaces on the bottom of the irons, front cover, and rotor housings as well as the oil pan (they have to be spin 'n span)

- Use Permatex Ultra Black (and nothing else); use a liberal amount of it

- Let rest and 'skin up' for atleast 2 to 3 hours prior to introducing fluids (such as oil)



This is my technique and I don't have any leaks whatsoever.



B

Thats pretty much what I did. Except I used "the right stuff".



I also put some on the threads when I put the mounts on. 1 week and all is still good, no leaks yet

The factory service manual says to , properly clean out the motor mount bolt holes and to apply sealant to the bolts themselves before assembly , If not cleanned properly the old sealant (in the holes ) can cause the plate to crack .

I don't like the idea of having silicone in the hole at all, I thought it had a pretty high coefficient of thermal expansion. Putting it in a closed space like the threads of a blind bolt hole seems like a recipe for disaster, considering the temps it can experience.



Now, if the shop manual says to put sealant on the bolts, what kind of sealant is it referring to?



Anyone care to comment on the thermal expansion properties of rtv?

It can only expand so much. The actual amount that is between the threads of the bolt and the block is very minimal. I can't see it causing any problems

mazda has their own sealant



http://i.xanga.com/HyperRex/t/mazdabond02.jpg

I have a trick that I've been doing lately and I have notice it works really good. If your intrested let me know.

Im not having any problems, but im still interested

me too

me 3!!!!

PM'ed you Judge Ito.

Let the cat out of the bag Judge! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

Ahh, yes, but are you talking about the sump sealing, or the Mazda Sealant/human injection, Judge Ito? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I've decided to show you guys better with pictures. It's a bit complicated to explaine with words but alot easier to show with pics. It's a bullet proof method and it's seperate from sealant. yes you need to use sealant but first you do the modification. Ill post pics tomorrow friday for sure.

I'll add the oil pan mod is fairly simple but works.

Post pics of this "mod" so I can pull my engine already! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

TTT...we all know Ito's a busy guy...



I'll be pullling my engine within the next month to fix my oil spillage.

Pics !!

I need pics! I've found the exxon valdez in my drive way! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

I'll make a big effort and have them soon.

Thanks Ito! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683827.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

i got some orange sealt from ari at rotary performance.com. like 93 said alot of brake clean nice flat pan rails. the orange dries alot harded than black rtv stuff i have used. i put the pan on let it dry overnight and no leaks as of about 11 months later. honda bond is good from what i have heard. and we use a gm anerobic sealer on the North Star half blocks we re-seal that stuuf never leaks. hope it seals man.

Yeah just do what I said. Beat the pan rails totally flat, clean everthing real nice with a wire brush and razor blade, squirt it down with brake clean, chase all the bolt holes with a tap, and go to town with the sealant("the right stuff" from permatex). I also put it on all the bolt threads before tightening them down.



Everything is good so far.