ioTus

Hey guys, i hope this isnt way too noob of me to ask. I've tried searchign for hours, maybe i'm just not searching in the right places.



I'm doing a j-spec s4 tii swap into my S3 gsl-se.



I have EVERYTHING done. The engine turns over, runs like a champ, but no oil (so i hvaent run it for more than a minute before i realized and stopped it).



Its not just the guage taht says i have no oil pressure, the turbo oil lines are dry, and the oil filter is empty.



In an attempt to prime the oil system, i have poured oil down the filter pedastal until its full, both holes, i've poured over a quart of oil in there.



When i turn the key, no oil comes out ofthe pedastal!!!! My starter is almost dead from all of the "priming" i've been trying to do.



For closer info, here is how i primed it:

1) pour oil down the holes

2) crank engine backwards for a long time.

repeat times 4 or 5, try cranking the engine.

repeat above cycle tons of times, thats how long i spent.



my hands are bruised from cranking the engine backwards by hand. and still no pressure!!!





I'm just about ready to take off the front cover and check the oil pump in there and see if its even working. However, i'm really not very motivated to take off the front cover again (this would be the 2nd time). I dont have all the right tools, and not much time to go out and do it all in one sitting (tho i could w/ propper motivation, that i KNEW it was the oil pump, etc).



So anyways, is there any advice i could get before diving right into the front cover and inspecting the oil pump??



Thanks guys.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

S3 Turbo II swap information:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>S3 mounts on the front cover. Thus, front cover must be replaced to mount.

>Front cover of gsl-se engine is shaped dif. than that of TII, thus, oil pan must be replaced.

>Oil return line from the turbo is tapped into the exact location of that of the TII front cover. A custom return line is made to suit this.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

More info on my specific car:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

>Entire rats nest removed

>Blowthrough Weber 48IDA

>Stock S4 Turbo

>Stock oil send line

>Custom Oil return line

>No air pump, PS, A/C, or any other belt-powered thing.

>YES, there is oil in the pan (reading above "full", after that quart of oil i "primed" the system with)

>YES, I'm nearly positive i put the chain on the pump gear when replacing the front cover last.

>NO, the guage is not broken because there is no oil moving in the lines.



Hm. thats all i can think of.



Thanks guys,

~Geoff Jensen

Webmaster: www.inwr.org

www.iotus.com

ioTus

EDIT:

For closer info, here is how i primed it:

1) pour oil down the holes

2) crank engine backwards for a long time.



STEP 2:

when i say crank the engine backwards, i mean w/ a socket wrench on the e-shaft bolt on the front thingie.... yeah.



Ok bye now.

sleeper7

Are you sure you installed the 0-ring on the front cover? There may be a problem with you pick-up tube. Did you use the SE one.

chuck

pk797

Ya. I'm suspecting something with your pick-up tube also. You said it was custom right, but why not use the SE part to go with the SE oil pan?

As far as the oil pump itself. That would be relatively easy to diganose ones you have it out. I mean I know it maybe a bit of a bitch, but you can do both checks at the same time.

Step1- Have car up on stands. Drop the SE oil pan. Measure distance from bottom of motor to bottom of pan. Check pick-up tube to ensure proper length, shape and sizing. You should also be able to visually inspect tube for any oil. If that all looks good and you feel sure the oil pick-up is working than do step 2.

Step2- Support engine. Remove mount, front cover, chain/sprocket and oil pump. Visually inspect everything for signs of oil starvation. Next with oil pump out check the oil pump for wear or damage. You can do this by measuring the clearance between the inner lubes of the oil pump with a feeler gauge.



Standard clearance (as stated in the Mazda workshop manual) is:

0.03~0.12mm or 0.0012~0.0047inch



The clearance limit is:

0.15mm or 0.0059inch



Anything more than that and the pump is useless. infact if it's close to the .15mm limit I would replace it anyway even if that's not your current problem.

ioTus

Okay. Yeah i'm sure i installed the GSL-SE pickup tube in there. The TII one went down too far. Wouldnt allow the oil pan to get on there. I'll probably end up taking her apart this weekend.



Anything else to check before diving into it?

Thanks guys!

~Geoff

rotaspec

I have a relatively simple trick that might help. Get one of those oil suction guns (big syringe). Remove the oil cooler line from the front cover. Get an old oil cooler line and modify it to fit tight on the suction gun tip. Fill the suction gun with fresh oil, fit it to the front cover oil fitting and squirt the oil in there. It will take a bit of forcing it back through the pump. Refit your oil cooler line and check for pressure.

Ive done this a couple of times with stubborn pumps and it works a treat.

setzep

Is there oil in the pan? (hope so )



Maybe you forgot to tighten the two bolts that hold on the oil pickup and it's sucking air.

sleeper7

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

chuck

ioTus

Excellent! I'm definately going to try this before taking off the front cover!!



I'll report back and let you know how it goes.



Thanks a ton guys!

ioTus

Edit:



Sleeper7, i'm nearly POSITIVE this is what happened. All i did was installed a gasket, and i have an earlymodel casting.



Its the O-ring, i'm positive of it. Thanmk you very much man, i can't believe i missed that!!



Now i know. learn something new every day.



Peace guys, thanks again for all your help.