On the s4 does the air pump have to be on the car for the actuators to work. And should i be able to see them working when reving the engine in neutral. And at what rpm should they open at.

no s4 works of back pressure from the exhaust s5 is air pump dependent. and no you wont see them actuating in neutral. if im not mistaken they normally open up at 4500-5000 rpm not sure.

Thanks alot man

You still need the split air pipe coming from the main cat. I'd cap the unused air input end to make sure there are no unwanted pressure drops to the actuators.

Check the actuators by pulling the hose going to them and charge with 1-2 psi. Factory man. says fully open @ 2.1 psi. for S4.



If the actuators don't move the valves might be stuck. Be careful with spray lubes and cleaners around the exhaust sys, don't leave flammable puddles to ignite when you run the car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.gif

Use a good dab of anti-seize or grease lube on the shafts after you verify valves turn and actuators work, then go for a drive. It should operate at about 4500 rpm. If the shaft doesn't show any signs it moved through the grease, then there is a prob on the split air pipe /exhaust pressure side.



Electronic 6 port modification is a worthwhile project IMO.

electronic 6 port mod wat is that

IT USES A 2-STEP CONTROLLER, ROTARY RESURRECTION HAS A GOOD WRITE-UP ON THERE SITE.

Another thing a lot of people forget to mention with the S4 actuators is their gaskets. There are small gaskets between where the actuators meet the manifold. The exhaust pressure is get into the manifold THEN into the actuators. Once you take one of the actuators off, youll see the little hole that the pressure feeds into. Ive had good luck using RTV instead of getting a gasket. I have a Rotary Performance downpipe which uses the stock manifold but replaces the precats and cat with a presilencer and 2 1/2" piping. Since there are no cats, RP drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole and used copper brake fittings and copper line plus a foot or so of vacuum hose to keep the actuators working. Sounds and looks pretty ghetto but it seems to work ok.

Check out The Other Forum for a diy rpm switch if you're into electronics tinkering. The original plans for a single switch came from sylvr7 I think. If you keep your air pump you could easily tap into the unused wire for the EGR solenoid in the emissions harness. (everyone gets rid of EGR and AWS right? Reuse them for 6 ports and VDI) A little replumbing of the EGR Solenoid valve, an aditional valve for VDI, and you'de be in business with a simple, tunable 6 port VDI activation.

Well, thats just about what I did anyway when I swapped on the entire S5 intake and vac nest. It looks nearly stock. I don't like extra wires going here and there under the hood like so many other people have done. Just my preference. No offense to those who don't. The switch box is Velcro'd to the underside of the heater core box for easy access and stealth.



I made my own doubled rpm switch before bshusted came up with his fancy pcb design BTW. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.gif I built mine with LED indicators and an interlock type of switch to inhibit valve function when engine braking.

I didn't have the luxury of a pcb program and did everything by hand on a copper strip board tho. I was going to do a double switch write up until I found it had already been done. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.gif