Here are some pics of what I managed to do over the winter. Just about ready to assemble the long block. All pieces are measured up, everything within tolerance and clearance.



The plates are very flat, couldn't even get a .0015 feeler gauge with a straight edge on them. Housings are bang on 80.01 mm all around. Rotors are 79.79 mm all the way around on both. No measurable wear on the side plates where the oil rings will pass over.



I'm stoked. The engine looks like it sat around for a while (I picked this engine up for 100 bucks) I wasnt' expecting much. But the housings are nice and smooth, very very little chrome flaking on the edges. It was carbon locked to hell and back though. Took lots of scrubbing. A bit of rust in the porosity of the casting. Still I think the plates are usable.



Here are some pics.

Oh and the port job. I don't claim to know what I'm doing. All I did was rework the shape of the stock ports internally. Timing wise the ports are the same (intake and exhaust). I just make the transitions nice and smooth. All work was done with a dremel, flex shaft, some 1/8" carbide burrs, stones, various sanding drums. It's not polished mirror smooth. But we'll see how that works.



Just need to goto the dealership and order a rear stat gear O-ring, and maybe rotor bearings. Depending on what others say about my other post.



[attachment=41786:attachment]

[attachment=41787:attachment]

[attachment=41788:attachment]

[attachment=41789:attachment]

[attachment=41790:attachment]

[attachment=41791:attachment]

[attachment=41792:attachment]

[attachment=41793:attachment]

[attachment=41794:attachment]

On the second picture do I see pitting in the o-ring groove?

yes. It had some pretty bad pitting. I cleaned up the spots and used some high temp metal epoxy and filled them a bit. What you see is the difference in color between the epoxy and cast iron

Metal epoxy... like JB Weld? Does that work? If so.. I have some plates I can fix. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif