Here she is, all nice and Purdy. Spent wayyyyy too much money this fall, but next spring/summer I will be getting a Haltech E8 then maybe a nice Garrett turbo.



I used the Atkins rebuild kit, it's semi-ported, meaning I only cleaned up the rough casting marks, fuel might not mix as well, but that **** was rough, I'm sure it will flow much better. Now to break it in and find a Dyno.



Pics are here: http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h...ebuild/?start=0

That link is busted here is a functioning one.



http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/Nis...gine%20Rebuild/

nice! i ported my turbo engine like that, not sure it made much difference, but it did have really nice response

nice job.



just curious as to why not put a mild streetport while you had it apart and were cleaning up the casting flash?

Well it's still technically a "stock-port motor" and 400hp is doable, why go for more, it's not much use on the street, and well I'm lazy, and cheap.

awesome man it looks great



can't wait till im done with mine

Looks really good but I found one little thing I have an issue with. That paper gasket you made for the oil pump should only be on the pump body mounting surface. Not on the inside where the pump rotor spins. That piece of paper will shread out and will in a good case get caught at the filter, in a worse case it could clog something and cost you that Jewel of an engine you have assembled.

If I put on on the other side i don't think it would be any different. You could be right, but I still don't see how it's going get sucked in it's basically been glued down with gasket tack.



I get what you are saying now, makes sense, should be ok tho, oil changes are done ever 3k KM's I'll have to keep an eye out.

Thats not what he means. The gasket area you have layed out around the oil pump shaft hole is going to be touching one side of the inner most " rotor " of the oil pump. There are better solutions that are cost effective to that problem.

I doubt that there was a gasket in the stock engine. I have never seen one. Although I have never built up a 13B, I have been around helping while it is done. For a leak free pump body, use the Racing Beat "O" ringed pump body, or pop the one you own into a lathe and cut an "O" ring groove in its mating surface.



One thing I did when I used the stock, then later the Racing Beat pumps was to freeze the pump in the freezer and then measure the end clearance. It should not be over.002". I have found them around .010" on some pumps. This lets high pressure oil around the end of the pump, and reduces total output at any RPM.



Take the pump apart and lap the mating surface to shorten the pump body. Assemble the pump and measure again. When you get close, freeze the body and measure again. This is done so in the winter time the body does not get too short and clamp down on the rings and rotors in the pump.



As soon as you get some oil temp going the pump body (Aluminum) grows longer than the rings and rotors(Steel), and additional end clearance appears as if by magic.



A home made gasket can only fail eventually. Do the "O" ring thing after shortening the body if you must.

I never thought it was a problem to be cured.



The gasket has some thickness. Say its only .012". that makes the leak around the pump elements .o12" plus the stock clearance, say .006" and this means .018" and lower oil pressure everywhere, more noticible at idle speeds. The gasket material inside the pumping chamber will be destroyed very quickly.





Sorry, but better now than later.





Lynn E. Hanover