I am continuing with the assembly of my engine and really appreciate all the good advice I have received from this forum. So if I may, here are a just few more questions –







I only have a ½” drive air impact. Will that be enough at 120 p.s.i. to tighten my front bolt? Do I need to use red thread locker? What about the flywheel nut? Is 120 p.s.i. enough for that one? Does it get threadlocker also? I remember it came off much easier than the front bolt when I was dis-assembling my engine.







I plan on using some type of sealant at the base of the oil pump when I bolt it on. I have black RTV. Is that OK or will Hylomar do?







I have a multi layer metal gasket where the LIM attaches to the block. Put that on dry or use a sealer? If so, what do you guys recommend?







How about the gasket at the LIM to UIM? I think mine is paper. Any sealer and if so, what kind?







What about the front cover to the block? I don’t know what that gasket is made of but it seems kind of hard. Any sealer and if so, what kind?







I bought the older NA engine gasket kit from Atkins Rotary for all of the short block gaskets. They included a thick paper (or something) 1 piece exhaust manifold gasket. My engine had 2 metal gaskets, one for each port. Can I use the one in the kit?







Is the general opinion that a thick bead of RTV (and no gasket) will do at the oil pan to block? From what I have read, people have had good luck when the surfaces are cleaned properly and the motor mounts are bolted on until everything sets up. Any other ideas there?







That’s all I can think of right now. Thank you and I appreciate everyone’s continued support.







Jeff

this was looking really long last night!



um i'm not sure about the air impact guns, i go old school and just torque em. for the flywheel nut ive got a 3 foot bar.



i use a little silicon on the oil pump, i think hylomar would be ok too, its a real thin layer of sealer there anyways, so i'm not sure WHAT you use is super important.



i use a thin layer of silicon on the gasket, i think mazda's bulletin had you grease it... like the oil pump you just want something to make sure you dont have any really small leaks



paper gasket gets silicon too, that way it doesnt stick, and you dont have to scrape gasket next time!



i also silicon the front cover gasket, make sure this one gets a chance to dry, it really sucks to change it



the older mazda exhaust gasket is like some sort of metal covered fiber thing, these are fine. if its real paper it'll last about 20minutes, its 2000F in there!



yep the factory uses just silicon on the oil pan. silicon the mount too, and bolt it on. FC pans dont leak much, but again, it shouldn't see oil for 24 hours or so

this was looking really long last night!



um i'm not sure about the air impact guns, i go old school and just torque em. for the flywheel nut ive got a 3 foot bar.



i use a little silicon on the oil pump, i think hylomar would be ok too, its a real thin layer of sealer there anyways, so i'm not sure WHAT you use is super important.



i use a thin layer of silicon on the gasket, i think mazda's bulletin had you grease it... like the oil pump you just want something to make sure you dont have any really small leaks



paper gasket gets silicon too, that way it doesnt stick, and you dont have to scrape gasket next time!



i also silicon the front cover gasket, make sure this one gets a chance to dry, it really sucks to change it



the older mazda exhaust gasket is like some sort of metal covered fiber thing, these are fine. if its real paper it'll last about 20minutes, its 2000F in there!



yep the factory uses just silicon on the oil pan. silicon the mount too, and bolt it on. FC pans dont leak much, but again, it shouldn't see oil for 24 hours or so

Sorry for the long looking post. I didn't check the formatting before I submitted it. Thank you for the reply - just a quick one. When you say silicone do you mean RTV (like blue or black) or do you mean something like G.E. 100% silicone which I can get at a hardware store?

Jeff

i like the grey mazda stuff 8527-77-739 but i'll use the grey parts store stuff too.

I used to stand on the three foot bar, and had a rig to hold the engine down while I did that. Usually it takes another person to help. I got over that.



I use a cheap 1/2" impact wrench for the front pulley bolt, with just one blast from the gun then torque it up to 90 pounds with a good torque wrench. The extra torque is to make the crank nose a bit stiffer.



The big nut I install with just one drop of red locktite between the face of the flywheel and the nut. Never any more than that, and never on the threads. If any locktite gets between the crank and the bearing, it will ruin the bearing. A drop of anti-sieze on the threads. Clean taper but no sealant. Warm the counterweight or flywheel center up to just about uncomfortable to touch, about 140 degrees. Mind the key and slip the taper on, and quick after impact the nut on with a full air tank. Mark a nut corner with a magic marker, and as soon as the compressor stops running, run the impact on the nut again. Repeat until the nut stops moving. You will be between 200 and 400 pounds. When working with tapers you will be generating thousands of pounds of force between the pieces. At 400 pounds of torque the joint is as good as a weld.



Do not use the soft steel locking washer. It flows over the years and lets down some of the nut torque.



If you have used prying or hammer blows to break the taper on disassembly, replace the entire thrust assembly. Use a factory puller or Mazda Trix or Racing Beat pullers. Very nice. No damage. Leave the nut on just clear of the flywheel face so it cannot leap off the engine when the taper breaks.



Piece of cake...........





The picture is a Renesis used as an airplane engine. Note the GM air conditioning condenser used as a water radiator. They are cheap at the junk yard and make great oil coolers as well.



Lynn E. Hanover

Thanks for the replies to this thread. I have a few more questions but I think I'll start another thread. Don't know what I did to make this one not flow from reply to reply.

Jeff

Very cool--learn something new everyday