Okay I am getting close to reassembly of the P-port motor that will power my racecar.

I figured I would just post a picture of the locked distributor that I made.

Its an S4 distributor, European S4´s came with a dizzy. I have mad the leading and trailing a bit adjustable in timing, milling some elongated boltholes in the brackets that hold the advance-rods, you know for ease of tuning.



Opinions are very welcome



http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/distlock.jpg



Tomorrow I will start fabricating the intake manifold for the IDA, is there a way to keeep the runners the same lengt and still have the carburettor sitting horizontally level ??



-Kmi

There is no need to split the timing for racing. I drive both MSDs from the leading pickup.

Any timing change is then just moving the whole distributor.



Total advance of 20 degrees is good through 8,000 RPM. Over 9,000 25-27 is good. It will start, idle and race just fine at 27, on 93 octane fuel. Lower octane just stick with 20-24 degrees. Look for EGTs in the 1570 to 1625 range. The angle of the carb on the manifold makes no difference. The engine is two one rotor engines on a single crank, so the slightly different lengths makes no difference. You can run a step smaller air corrector in the front hole to get the EGTs to come out even. The fuel level in the bowl will be tilted toward the rear during accelleration.



Remove the little bug screen on top of the needle seat. Use a 300 Weber needle and seat or a 350 Gross jet. Drill the port above the needle seat a bit bigger, so it is does not become the main jet. If it still leans out at top revs, you can cut a notch in the lip of the unused accellerator pump well, and drill through the bottom of it to increase bowl volume. Let us know how it runs, and we can get those jets squared away for you.





Lynn E. Hanover

aside from tuning issues/preferences i believe the reason they run zero split is cross fire. if you are running split timing there is a margin for plugs to fire at the wrong times. if you fire everything at once it can cross fire all it wants too, and it doesnt matter.



good thing is timing split doesnt seem to be worth a lot in either power economy or driveability

The FC dizzy has no VAC advances? Or did you remove them.

just for kicks whats the part number? there should be an N304 or N345 number stamped into it

N322, same as the ECU.

Your pic doesnt show where you locked it. You took all that mess off and locked it underneath right?

Yup, the centrifugal thingies got a spotweld each with the Migatronic...