seals that you can't break, thats gotta be good. if link doesn't work try www.performancetestedseals.com

seals you cant break tend to break your rotor housings

Am I the only one who read the thread title and expected to read about furry aquatic mammals with big sharp teeth ripping flesh?

Things that are related to RX7s and include the words "guranteed, fail-safe, idiot-proof, and won't break" are libel.

i expected flesh eating aquatic animals too.





NOTHING on an RX7 is unbreakable or fail safe

Say the seals don't break. Then you're shredding dowel pins or where they are located in the side housings.



So you beef that up, and then you start crushing rotors.



Then what?



It's not as if the stock seals are particularly fragile, they just don't tolerate detonation. At high power, NO engine will tolerate detonation. Ever see a drag V8 split its engine into two or three convenient chunks?

Well if Abel Ibarra, Anthony Rodriguez (Mazsport) and Rocky Rahem (Pac Performance) is using them they can't be too bad. If you follow rotary drag racing scene then you know who the aboved mentioned racers are Abel Ibarra 6 second 20b, Anthony Rodriguez has been building high powered rotarys for a long time, Rocky Rahem 6 second 20b also. The seals are from Australia but they have a distributor in Puerto Rico. And Puerto Ricans are known to have some high powered rotarys. Don't know anything about these seals still trying to find some info on them. Their site is kind of vague on the info for the seals. But found out that a set of 2mm 13b seals can be had for $1150 USD. That's in the price range of ceramic seals. Nothing wrong with looking into new seals. I wish someone would come up with better side and corner seals. Everyone seems to concentrate on the apex seals but with the strength of apex seals being upped other things will go, like side seals. Hell I've seen intermediate plates cracked along with housings but nothing wrong with having better seals.

hey, i know you can break a lot of **** in an engine, look at top fuelers. the seals only bend, lose compression. pull them out and straighten them. as for other stuff in rotors i guess its just r & d for the little things, but were all stuck with some bits unlike most expensive v8 stuff, ali blocks and things. until someone with to much money makes there own rotor engine's, if ever, were stuck with factory stuff. 209 mph by abel shows he's making heaps of power. hey 13btnos, rodriguez crashed his new car last month testing for fast fours jamboree, smashed it up good.

After trying other well known "super tough" apex seals, I really think there is no point to it... As the others have said, if the tune is off enough to break the apex seals, its off enough to break the next link in the chain, which is usually rotor denting which makes any seal bind in the rotor, cracked irons, or broken side/corner seals...

The only time an aftermarket part is really needed is when the stock part simply cant withstand the power output.. There is no issue with the stock seals related to power output, they just dont blow out because of output, it takes combustion/tuning isssues to do it, or in the case of the 3 piece seals, excessively worn rotors with excessively worn seals..Lots of people in other places are making over 800 hp on 13bs with stock seals..

There are alot of big names on that web page, but really there is a difference between running a race car and a street car. I dont think the race car will ever see the time on the seals that a street car does.. Look at this way, my first set of super seals lasted about 10,000 km's, and by the looks of it, 14,000 on the second set.. If they were in a drag car or even a road race car, how many passes/laps/seasons would it be to equal 10,000 km's to see if they were really that **** hot of a seal or not.. Using a low mileage test base is not the best test base when selling them to the public who are going to drive these cars long distances, combined with high output..Someone who might even do 200 passes a year doesnt know enough over the longterm in terms of wear on the housings and seal life/seal wear characteristic to be giving props or advice to someone who is going to drive their car daily, so putting pictures of pretty drag cars on website doesnt do much to for me in terms of confidence for the long haul..

Imho, you are far better off with stock seals, and spending the money on tuning/knock detection for the whole motor, rather than concentrating all your resources on the apex seal and only taking care of that single aspect..

all the top name drag cars that go 6 seconds really dont have to worry about the longevity rotor housings, hell, those engines get rebuilt less than 20 miles of use (that would be 80 1/4mile runs) hehe https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png thats not enough time to wear the housings out, so for them, the harder the seals are, the better.



for us that are not sponsored or us that expect to see more than 100 miles from our engines... softer, housing friendly seals are the best way to go. seals are cheap, housings are expensive.