I am about to begin making my 13b peripheral port turbo with either a 75 or 80 mm turbo. I am wondering, if i only plan on reving to 9000 rpm, if i am going to require a balanced rotating assembly, clearanced rotors, or new stationary gears. This engine was origionally an S4 N/A. I am on a tight budget, so knowing this information is very vital for me. I want to get away with spending as little as possible, and still have my setup work well.



thank you

if this was my motor, i'd be assembling it expecting it to come apart pretty quickly, PP turbo isn't going to live a long easy life.....



to answer the question; you should upgrade to some hardened stat gears. you want to be aware of the rotor side clearance, depending on what you are starting with, you might not have to do anything. since its only going to see 9k it doesnt need to be super loose.



balancing is kinda the same, if you have a gram scale, and the rotors are close, i wouldnt bother. unless you're willing to rebalance when you rebuild it.

Alright. i have to buy an rx8 eccentric shaft, so i might just get rx8 stationary gears as well, i hear they are good for performance applications.

it will be my daily driver, but drivability to me means it is capable of getting me from point A to B.

Why on earth do you want to do a low budget pp turbo for a daily driver? You know its going to be a monster, we're talking 500-600 whp on pump gas here. At that hp level, you can pretty much throw any reliability out the window, and Im not talking about just the motor.

rx8 eshaft wont hold the power! will take out a lot when it starts to fail too

You're essentially making a race engine with a 9k PP 13bt, why would you put that in a street car? I mean, you might as well put a dog box and an unpadded roll cage in your car while you're at it. Your engine is going to wear quickly after a little bit of whatever racing you intend to do and then you're going to have major engine failure on your way to work. Not to mention your pockets will empty due to the gas and oil consumption of a turbo P-port. Your plan is pretty much the opposite of low budget. If you want to make a race car, then go for it, but go buy a cheap econobox to get yourself around town. You'll save crap loads not replacing parts and topping up fluids on your RX-7, and you won't have to compromise either. You'll get something to drive and something that will be made ONLY to haul ass at high RPM.

You need to start with a FD rew core as a minimum. The FC turbo blocks are good for n/a pp applications, but you are going to need as much oil pump and factory clearancing tricks as you can get. You can drive a p-port on the street, I do it all the time, just don't expect women to get in the car with you, or use drive through intercoms at Burger king.

Actually a p-port for me has proven to be a very reliable long lasting setup, Mines going on 3 years now of mixed street, road course racing and highway use. Still starts first flick of the key. Its got around 16,000 km's on it now.

i have a rx8 e-shaft in my 500hp extended port 13bre and have zero problems with it. i drive the car hard and latly have been beating on it daily befor winter hits

I will be doing many things to make it usable on the street. One will be the primary injector placement, will be right above the intake port, into the rotor housing. This will allow me to loose zero fuel to overlap at the power levels i will experience during regular or even speedy driving. It will have an Regular style externally mounted dry sump system, preferebly 5 stage, but i can deal with 3 stage.



i believe my internals will hold up just fine. I have S5 9.0:1 rotors, and i know a guy who is making nearly 700rwhp of an s4 engine with these rotors.



my exact question that i ask, is do you guys think it will be necissary to modify such things as the stationary gears with that of an rx8, and if the rotors will need clearancing.

What ecu are you thinking of using? If you buy new rotors and FD stat gears you wont have to do anything.