Here is an idea.

I tossed the engine into the white REPU on Tuesday. Then I installed the stater and fixed the radiator (soldered and drilled out a broken oil cooler stud) and installed it on Wednesday. Then today, I installed a battery, carb, hooked everything up and she fired right up. I made sure to crank it first without any plugs in untillI got an indication of oil pressure. Then I installed the plugs and it started to fire within two seconds of cranking. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif It fired right up and ran with a bit of a brap while the choke was one. The amount of smoke was a lot less than I thought it would be (I've seen a veritable bat-screen on some first-fireups after rebuilds before). Then after about a minute I let the choke in a little and it smoothed out.



I wished I had a video camera or something, as I bet it would be hard to believe that it fired up and ran as well as it did, but what do I know? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I let it idle at about 1200 to 1000 RPM for maybe 25 to 30 minutes and then shut it off and it fired right back up. There was just a tiny bit of smoke.



I then put around 5 miles on it trying to keep the RPM below 3000. I think I hit 3500 a couple times.



This is only the second rebuild I've ever done, and the first one was hard to start and smoked like a chimney (it stalled a couple times during the 45 minute first run and required the plugs to be cleaned each time before it would fire back up). As you have seen earlier in this thread, those large NON-BEVELED exhaust ports are probably at least partially to blame. The rest could have been the dellorto and a lack of a choke.



So is this a tight engine or something? Is that why I've had such good luck with it so far? By the way, the OMP is set to the 9 o'clock postion because I don't have a rod for it yet. This means it's a little rich at idle, and lean at WOT, which is still many miles away, so no worries. ;)Ask Dan Atkins at the other forum for more info about the OMP stuff.



I guess those D shaped ports are working well. I'll do them on my '74-'75 rotor housings too. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif