I removed the nut already but now do I remove the flywheel???

That thing is really on there. Would I need to hammer it or using a puller?

Or do you guys know any other tricks?



Thanx https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

Put the flywheel nut back on there, but leave it on a few threads just so when the flywheel does come off, it doesn't cut off your toes.



Buy a BFRM (Big ******* Rubber Mallet) and smack the side with the key. If you have someone else present, put a prybar on the key side and smack that side.



I use this trick and it normally takes 5 good whack's and the flywheel comes off.

you mean the gap where the key goes?

But what do I smack the flywheel nut or the flywheel itself?

I used a make-shift puller. There is bolts that thread into the flywheel itself, same size and pitch as the bolts for the A/C mount bracket. I got those bolts, and the tow hook mount off the front bumper of my FC. Stuff some wood between the hook mount and the e-shaft, and put the bolts on either side threading into the flywheel. I just kept tightening it until it popped off. Took a while though.



Any piece of steel that's about 6 inch in length with holes at each end to fit bolts through will work. Just remember to put wood or something between the "puller" and the e-shaft to prevent damage or something of the like.



I tried prying the flywheel off with two bigass prybars and that didn't work. So that's where the inspiration for using stuff laying around to make a puller came through.

just start beating on it... when i got mine off my friends and i had tried everything, heating it up and hitting a mallet, prying it off to no avail. In the end we found a 7ft solid bar of steel i the shop and to quick prys later the thing popped off.

A simple claw hammer worked for me. Of course the oldest engine I've tried this on was rebuilt in '95, so it wasn't very old (3B '74 REPU 13B). I'm quit worried about my Cosmo engine though (early R5 '76 13B) which has an automatic counterweight; less material to whack.

Firewood, i thought that was explained and covered in the FAQ.



Take big ass piece of birch. lie underneth, thread the flyhweel night back on slightly and beat the **** out it.

I tried that when I remembered reading you posting that a few times. Didn't work. I had to use the puller.



But that was just my case.

I just hit them very hard where they will not get hurt as close to the e-shaft as possible. 1-2 good square ones and they litterally fall off.



Good luck



Gregory

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Lots of great ideas but I will try the puller

but will give the firewood a shot first. What ever happens I will get that bitch off

I hold a steel bar against the flywheel in the cutout section , and beat the hell out of it with a BFH. The metal bar keeps you from bending the flywheel.

keep the nut on 1-2 threads so that the flywheel doesnt fall off on you!

BFH and try NOT to hit the clutch disc mating surface.

I usually aim for the outside edge and not the inside, as the outside edge is flat.

If you're going to aim for the outside, watch out for the ring gear!



Yes, you swing THAT hard.



I've gotten good at it enough to gaurantee the flywheel pops off by 3 whacks. On average it only takes me two.





-Ted

I dont think I was clear enough on how I do it. I hit the backside of the flywheel by the intake and exhaust ports. A few good hits is all it ever takes.

Thanks mazdaspeed 7

I will try that https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Timing gear puller from Autozone, a chunk of high grade steel for the center, and a pair of M10x1.25mm 50mm+ bolts.. Does the trick well and doesn't damage anything.



B

Maybe I just had a flywheel that was put on with hells fury, but I had this one flywheel that broke 2 3/4" breaker bars tryign to get the nut loose, it eventually took a diesel truck shop to get the nut off, got the engine home, and then proceeded to break a flywheel puller and a crow bar trying to get the flywheel off. I eventually got it off, but it took a lot of work.



I havent tried a puller since.

First, refer to the other strings on removing the flywheel.



Second, forget anything that involves the words "Pry" or "Hit" as in Big Hammer or Crow bar or the like.



Any blow that is struck in a fore or aft direction makes small fractures in the thrust bearings and bends the thrust plate. If you have beat the flywheel off already, discard the hard washer on the back of the front counter weight, both bearings, the thrust plate and the hard washer at the front of the first throw.



Same thing if you "Pry" on the wheel with a bar of any kind.



Put a piece of plate stock over the end of the crank to protect it. Use the steering wheel puller because it uses the existing bolt holes in the wheel. Just take a good strain on the steering wheel puller, or the official puller from Racing Beat, and heat around the center of the flywheel with the cutting head of your acetylene torch. Just loosen the nut enough to leave a 1/8" gap between the nut and the wheel. The wheel will come loose with a bang. If you leave the nut off, it will fall off onto you foot. It may then ruin the ring gear or that puller you borrowed.



Install a new rear seal as the hot flywheel center will have changed the old seal to junk, even if it still looks good.



So now you have the flywheel off and no damage to the thrust system or flywheel at all.



In the event that you have no way of removing the nut. You are not alone. It is torqued to over 300 foot pounds, and, may have been Loctited.



First, heat the crap out of the nut with your torch. The heat will fail the Locktite (if any), and the nut will get a bit bigger with the heat. Then with the 2 1/8" socket and the 3/4" to 1/2" and a breaker bar all from Sears try the nut. No luck? try an impact gun. No luck? take the whole works to anyone who works on trucks. Take the socket with you. A 3/4 impact gun will take it off. No luck?



Drill a pair of 1/4" holes side by side in the nut in line with the crank. With a sharp chisel cut through the outside of the nut at 90 degrees to the crank. The nut will fail through the holes and will come right off.



Install a new nut to within 1/8" of the flywheel surface before pulling the flywheel.



Even if there was a locking plate under the nut when you started, throw it away and on rebuild run the nut on with just a light film of Locktite on the mating face of the nut. No Locktite on the threads. If any amount of Locktite gets onto the bearing, it will destroy the bearing. No locking plate.



Finished second on Sunday. Shifting at 9,700 RPM. Water 165 degrees, oil 180 degrees, oil pressure 100 PSI.





Lynn E. Hanover

I have the mazda puller but prefer to just smack it once or twice. I dont see this type of damage happening from that. Maybe other people hit it more than me or something but there is no way I am wrecking the thrust washers. Certianly no more than a centerforce clutch being dropped at 5k. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png That much iorn absorbs a ton of force. Thats why it just falls off when you hit it.

I'm too lazy to deal with anything else, and I've broken a *Racing Beat* flywheel puller before.



Uh, I usually yank everything in the front section, so there is no thrust washer to get damaged.



Prying will get me no where, and I usually end up chipping crap underneath.



Sure, a stronger and well designed puller will work, but I don't usually lug one around. And, currently, I'm in Europe and lugging something that heavy will usually cause the same security people to stop me during travel! :(





-Ted

I have a Snap-On steering wheel puller with the right taper adapter that fits in the e shaft but doenst not damage the shaft of the pilot bearing. After i have it bolted up, i use an impact gun to turn the puller and the flywheel pops right out.

how bout the rb puller..

Ted broke one.



I should make some out of thicker steel!

I finally got the flywhel off

Hit it from behind with a piece of pipe where the exhaust and intake ports are.

It took about 3-4 good wacks and it was off.

Thanks Mazdaspeed7 and everyone else for your advice.

I can finally open her up and will post pictures as soon as I do. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR