Spelling change only. LEH



quote name='Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jun 21 2007, 11:14 AM' post='875785']

So long as it starts out as thick as the original or slightly thicker.



Sounds good to me.



Lynn E. Hanover

It is required to protect the oil cooler from over pressure during a cold start up. The column of oil in the loop represents a thick static load, that is difficult to move quickly. So while the rear relief in a dynamic system will determin oil pressure, there will be a period where part of the system is dynamic close to the pump, while oil lines away from the pump are static, and the pressure near the pump can become very high long before there is any pressure increase at the rear relief.



In a static system, pressure is uniform throughout the system. Or, (pressure measured anywhere in the system would be the same)



In a dynamic system all kinds of interesting things will be going on. Or, (pressure near the pump will decline with to distance from the pump).



So, it does'nt hurt anything. It might save a cooler. Its already installed. Unless the spring breaks, the one's with the lowest pressure settings are 110 pounds, So, unless the rear regulator is set higher than that (115 pounds) there is no need to change anything. Of course you want the rear regulator controlling oil pressure.



You could rig up an old front cover and a gage, and actually check the cracking pressure of any front relief valve. You could even do it with a grease gun, as the media will not change the cracking pressure.



You can do one for the rear valve as well.





Lynn E. Hanover

the downing rx3 ( its white and black) has this note taped to the dash that says not to drive the car until oil temps are over whatever, maybe they pulled out the front regulator?



at the bottom it says, if you have any trouble call jim downing, and then lists his cell phone...

most likely its says to not rev until warmed up because the t-stat for the oil coolers is removed. I have the same issue on mine...just a guess on his though. Wouldnt you have major oil pressure problems with you removed the front regulator completely?

Most likey thats it. I ballooned a TII oil cooler from running no stat, as an experiment.

I havent had a front oring failure even with my external regulator setup that ran 135 psi, but the newer REW does use the metal gasket and has no o-ring recess.

What was the air temperature outside? I've never experienced any of that w/ the stat/front reg removed.

But then again this is AZ https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

copper washer.

I just ran a 1/2UNC tap into the front iron transfer gallery and screwed in a 1/2UNC grub screw with a 0.020" hole drilled in it. Screw in with a litle loctite or your favorite sealer and no more o-ring problem. I'm running the loop line but need a little oil for the 2 cycle oil pump adapter. Its a bit worrying starting the engine on a cooler morning but the injection keeps the half bridge at a sane idle until the oil temp gets up a bit.



Chris.

Could one just make a little machined tube that would allow you to run the regualtor externaly, there fore getting rid of all the front cover stuff but still having the regulator?