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-   Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/)
-   -   Cooling Issues (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/cooling-issues-37392/)

ColinRX7 04-17-2004 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Apr 17 2004, 06:19 AM
I know its a dumb question, but is the fan pulling the right way?

That would definately do it.. If you wire it backwards it will spin the opposite direction..

j9fd3s 04-17-2004 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by knonfs' date='Apr 17 2004, 04:59 AM
BTW - It just hit me, I am not running the air pump, and the alternator still have one belt. I was told that it is not a belt slipping, since there is not "belt slipery nosie"

it ususally wont make a noise.

knonfs 04-17-2004 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Apr 17 2004, 10:19 AM
I know its a dumb question, but is the fan pulling the right way?

That's not it either, the e fan has been wired for years, no issues until this rebuild engine :(

knonfs 04-17-2004 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2004, 11:07 AM
it ususally wont make a noise.

really?



Hmmm...



I have the dual pulley, now I need the FD alternator. Man if that's it....



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turborotor 04-17-2004 02:15 PM

I never had luck with an electric fan, car will start to heat up just like yours but will be fine at idle. Went back to stock configuration and no more problems.



Hopefully is just the belt slipping.

ColinRX7 04-17-2004 03:28 PM


Originally Posted by turborotor' date='Apr 17 2004, 11:15 AM
I never had luck with an electric fan, car will start to heat up just like yours but will be fine at idle. Went back to stock configuration and no more problems.



Hopefully is just the belt slipping.

I always had lots of success with the e-fan? Consistantly cooler temps..

knonfs 04-17-2004 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Apr 17 2004, 04:28 PM
I always had lots of success with the e-fan? Consistantly cooler temps..

Same here, untill this engine was installed.

FC_Joe 04-18-2004 10:31 AM

Hey, I am having the same problem!! I can let the car idle all day long - haltech shows 185 with my efan in place and set to come on at that temp, or 190ish with the stock fan in place. The autometer gauge I have shows about 190ish. Once I drive the car, it gets VERY warm. After a 4 mile trip, light throttle, no boost (still tuning) the haltech will show anywhere from 200-215 degrees and my autometer temp gauge is pegged!! The car has a stock port engine, never been opened. All the stock oiling system stuff internally is in place. T04E turbo with custom oil feed and return, Fluidyne Radiator, PermaCool efan, 65/35 mix water to antifreeze, GReddy 3 row FMIC.



My timing at idle is 8* and 0*. This portion of the map was set up for my by BDC, so I am hoping its right. I have double checked my timing 0 and its right on. I installed my dual alternator pulley and belt with no change in temps at all. Removed the thermostat to see if the old one was sticking shut or something...car will idle at 153 per the haltech and get to 205-210 after 4 miles.



I have the radiator fan shroud in place, but not the plastic underbody piece, or the top piece. Both of those are coming in shortly. Can the FMIC make that much of a difference in air flow? I know I am not the only FC owner with this intercooler and cooling system combo....what do you guys think I should look at next? Where at is this oil cooler thermopellet located?

RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ 04-18-2004 10:10 PM

could be your coolant seals the compression could be leaking into the colling system, ohh wait you say it is not overflowing?

FC_Joe 04-19-2004 10:48 PM

Come to think of it, I dont know that the level in my overflow bottle ever changes. I am relocating the gauge temp sender to the location of the stock one in the water outlet housing. I should see what the haltech is seeing that way. There has never been any sign of burning coolant nor have I had to add any.


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