To make a 'short' three rotor would be price competitive with a big turbo upgrade if you have to buy all the turbo bits anyway (intercooler, etc)





We called down under late one night https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif





BTW, the think 20b centre plate is 50mm thicker than a normal one.

Go for the 26b and then when you can, get a new e-shaft machined to make it "true." Hell, go as crazy as you and your wallet want to/allow.

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Aug 21 2005, 11:30 AM']i might point out that the r26b is rated at 750bhp, i'll go out on a limb and say you dont really need turbos for this one https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png


[/quote]

But two non-turbo 13Bs would be less than or around 400hp at the flywheel. Not really worth the effort or added weight without turbos.

[quote name='SilverSeven' date='Aug 21 2005, 08:47 PM']But two non-turbo 13Bs would be less than or around 400hp at the flywheel. Not really worth the effort or added weight without turbos.


[/quote]





Please tell me you got this number some other way than just taking bhp numbers of a 13b and multiplying by TWO



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

[quote name='SilverSeven' date='Aug 21 2005, 05:47 PM']But two non-turbo 13Bs would be less than or around 400hp at the flywheel. Not really worth the effort or added weight without turbos.


[/quote]





[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Aug 21 2005, 09:26 PM']Please tell me you got this number some other way than just taking bhp numbers of a 13b and multiplying by TWO



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif


[/quote]



Seriously, it makes no difference at this point, the only time it will make the slightest bit of difference is when it comes time to attach a transmission and readend or transaxel so those components work correctly and efficiently from whatever power the engine makes.



Streetable is also a goal to keep in mind, an emissionless groundpounder, and it will take the good graces of the local hot rod council to grant an SP license plate to make it happen.



To put the 13b's into perspective, the engine that I am lined up to buy is nearly 3000 dollars cheaper than a full blown p-port race motor, having an e-shaft made to make the firing order act and sound more like the real thing, not to mention the other benefits, will eat most of that savings up, if I go that route, but essentially I will only have to invest as much as someone whom is buying a full race p-port engine.

[quote name='TYSON' date='Aug 21 2005, 10:34 AM']Sounds like you'd need a 1 ton pickup to fit all that in the engine bay.


[/quote]





I submit that a four rotor would easily fit in a first generation RX-7 with the stock transmission placement. One would likely need to scallop the crossmember, and definitely relocate the radiator to the hatch, but it would be doable.



Shift the transmission back several inches and you could probably use a front mount radiator, if you made new mountings that pushed it as far forwards as possible. The issues of relocating the transmission are moot, since a new crossmember, driveshaft, and potentially a shifter hole will be needed for a sufficiently strong trans.



The second generation cars don't seem to have as much underhood room, but that may simply be an optical illusion due to the hood opening in a different direction. Rear mount radiators seem to be easier for these, however.

i'm a bit of a newb but if you are going to get a custom 4 rotor e-shaft up, would it be possible to make VERY thin intermediate plates, like 10mm thick, that way you would decrease the amount the rotors travel in the middle of the engine by making it shorter, but also reduce weight/length making it easier to fit.

I think the importance of the stationary gears and corresponding bearings become even more important when adding rotors, increasing the length of the shaft will, in turn, increase the possibility of flex in the shaft. The smart money says the plates should remain at the maximum thickness.



The "center plate" in a cloned 4 rotor is also an important issue it seems. Mating a rear and front plate from a 13B, while using an adapter piece intermediately, makes some strange restrictions to the coolant passages, as well as the cosmetic appearance from the outside.



I am leaning towards having a custom center plate machined, in addition to the E-shaft, allowing for proper; coolant flow, dowel pin placements, stationary gears, bearings etc.



Keep in mind, even if it were possible to walk in and order a 26B, the price tag would be in excess of 70,000 dollars. Having some machining work done to improve the overall aspects and performance of the cloned motor offsets the budget some, but still leaves the finish build cost way under that of an actual 4 rotor.



The challenges involved in installing the engine in an RX chassis will be nothing in comparison to getting a clone built!

This is pretty much what the shaft will look like...



http://89rag.nopistons.com/gallery/a...t/pg03_17b.gif

variable length, multi-step intake trumpets, I only wish!