checking end float.



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just curious as to peoples opinions on how to test end float.



Haynes manual says with the front facing down to setup your dial indicator on the rear plate and needle on flywheel then use your hands to lift the flywheel and check your reading.



my diy13b re video the engine is horizontal he sets up the dial indicator on the front plate and uses the e-shaft bolt but doesn't show how he moves the float.



the Atkins Video shows That they have the engine front up with the dial indicator on the front plate to e shaft bolt.and they use a flat head screw driver and pry between the stat nut and counter weight.





when doing it by hand checking for play i get the correct reading of 0.5MM which is spot on but when i use the screw driver method and pry kinda hard i get as high as .09mm which is the max limit. my question is can your pry to hard and get a false reading?



and if the pry method is best can i just sand the spacer on some 400grit sand paper. since i dont want my endplay to be at max



thanks

kiwi

The method is of no matter. The end play should be the same in every case on either end.



The travel should end when the away bearing touches the thrust plate. And it should just touch. The thrust plate is easy to bend, or flex. So aggressive prying will show up as more end play (the actual end play plus the plate flex) and more reserved prying (or lifting) will show the actual end play.



.0015" to .0035" for normal street rebuilds. For high performance or racing, .0025" to .0035" to allow for crank flex using up part of the thrust distance.



If you plan to run more bolt torque (to make the crank nose stiffer) be sure to have the bolt torqued up to what you plan to use before measuring end play.



Try it with the nose up. Thumbs on the rear iron and finger tips on the flywheel or flex plate, and just squeeze.



Lynn E. Hanover

thank you very much Lynn E. Hanover



i was counting on your reply:)

heres my project lynn check it out



http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=653888

Very nice. Where did you find it?



Lynn E. Hanover

a friend in portland oregon had brought it but ended up with some trouble and needed it gone asap so i gladly took it off his hands for free.so i made a plan and sold my rx7 +toyota pkup to pay for this project and im learning every step of the way. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



i just pulled the engine and trans today ill have to slip the t2 tranny+engine in tomorro and figure out the tranny mount and how much to shorten the shifter time to learn how to fab. but that all depends if the wife gets upset cause im spending to much time with my truck instead of her lol.

I should have included this drawing. The idea of the end play measurement is that the bearings involved will not survive a 100% duty cycle. So a space is left between the bearings and the surfaces they run on. There is a tiny hole in the crank that sprays oil on this assembly.



If you install a stiffer pressure plate, the load of the clutch being cycled will increase on the rear thrust bearing. You can use the later big bearings by machining a bigger flat on the stationary gear, or using the later stationary gear.



If you have to sit through a red light cycle, put the trans in neutral and let the clutch pedal up. This removes the load from the rear bearing completely.



A longer spacer gives you more end play. A shorter spacer gives you less end play.



Lynn E. Hanover