What's the easiest and cheapest way to fix the ignition on a rensis 230hp block?



Sometime we will drop it into a first gen or rx3.. a modified 6 port manifold and holley will fuel it..



Now for the ignition, are there some "ignition only" ecu's out there? or is it possible to put a old front alu housing on it so you could use a distributor.. but what with the gear not being on the eshaft..



I'd like to leave the front cover on.. and use the cas sensor with a simple ecu to solve it.. anyone done this before.?



Greetz

Check with MSD

electromotive has or had an ignition only ecu

If you're dropping it in an early car you'll want the early front cover anyway for the engine mounts. This would allow you to use a dizzy if you wanted. Or do like has been mentioned and look into Electromotive which will allow you to run everything off of one box with programmable advance curve.

What about the dizzy gear not being present on the eshaft?

The REW still had the gear to drive the OMP even though the CAS was on the front pulley. Havent opened up a renesis, but that may still be the case.

One reluctor on a wheel behind the pulley. Three pickups 120 degrees apart. Each pickup drives an MSD or Chrysler amplifier driving a double ended coil for both plugs on a housing. Set the timing at 22 degrees. Engine will start and run fine on this timing. Enough advance for 9,000 RPM.



Lynn E. Hanover



Picture is a three rotor converted to airplane use by Mistral.

its got something there, i think its a spacer, but a gear should just go right on

Very nice engine done by Mistral I mailed them a few timis because I wanted to run my project sage there as I'm studying aeronautics.. but email communication was badly :/:/:/



o it doesn't hurt to have 22° advance at 2500rpm?

It isn't a problem on the race car at 27 degrees. It idles at 2,200 RPM. On a street engine you could do 18 or 20 with no problem. This is for 87 Octane pump gas. For 100 Octane race gas or 110 Octane avgas you would want 22 to 24 degrees.



The rotor turning 1/3 the crank speed gets it a long time at or near TDC, (Dwell time). So the rotor is at 10 degrees BTDC when the crank is at 30 degrees. So, at 24 degrees at the crank, the rotor is at 8 degrees BTDC.



It doesn't sound so bad now does it?



Back a few years when both leading and trailing were jacked around by electronics and vacuum pots the timing could be 10 degrees leading and 5 after TDC trailing. There is little value in fooling with split timing in a race engine where you just don't use the engine below maybe 7,800 RPM.



The split is used down low, where it adds just a bit of torque and helps out the poor HC and NOX emissions.



I take it your project is for a street car?



I helped the Mistral guy after I met him at the Sun&Fun flyin at Lakeland Florida a few years back.



That guys first name is Frances but I cannot remember his last at the moment. He bought the company but did not know much about the rotary. They had one in a Piper but it would overheat the oil on climbout and they chose not to have the plane at the show. Look it up. Its a long story.



It is a very good product, but is very close in price to conventional certified aircraft engines.



Is your interest in aircraft design or a flying career? I am working on drawings for a low wing 4 place using Jim Bedes construction techniques.



Lynn E. Hanover



That story is on this site in the data about oil pumps.