yeah, i was with my friend today that i was working on my car and every time i push the clutch in and it was making a noise for about 3 weeks that i thought that was the trow out bearing, but is not is the E shaft that was moving foward when i was pushing the clutch. and is a notible moving, you can see it go foward i would it said about a 1/4 of an inch but i could be wrong. the engine was rebuild about 240 miles ago but was torn apart because the guy that had it before me decided to put better apex seals and he drove it for 2 miles more and the car cougt on fire but not in the engine. so he sold me it to me and i just have the engine for only three weeks and i thought all the time that the trow out bearing when bad. what could it be wrong? any gess please? the guy that i brougt the engine said that it could be a spacer that goes in the front betwen the couter weight and the front plate. any gess of what could be wrong? thanks



george



EDIT: BTW is a street ported and rebuild 87 turbo II engine

Yeah you definately have a problem. I think endplay should only be about .002" not .250".

Bearings are shot. Atleast you don't have to take the engine completely apart. They are behind the front cover. I wouldn't drive it as is, until you fix it.

This happened to a motor I was working on before. The needle bearings went bad. I pulled the motor out and took off the front cover to fix it. Seamed alot easier than doing it in the car on a 3rd gen.

well check the play and is only .022, and i took the spacer out and it looks kinda worn out. i dont know how many miles the engine have before being rebuild but i look clearly that is been never replaced. im gonna see how worn out is and talk to the guy about it because he told me that hes gonna fix any parts that are damaged so that good

the spacer should never get worn.unless somebody assembles it worng,like not geting the spacer on the inside of the needle bearing.the https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif n cranking down the front

e-shaft bolt,then finding out later there is problem.

Don't forget that everything is connected, most likely more than what you can see under the front cover is fucked. Mine car ate the front needle bearing and spacer causing the the reat stationary gearbearing/ rotor bearing to get worn down pretty bad. I have a twinplate clutch, push type that only made the problem that much worse. I would just pull the motor completely apart, because who know what else is wrong or wore down due the extra movement.

well here the verdict. yes it was a needle bearing, the one that is on the back of the plate got chew pretty bad. my fault when i put the dam spacer in at first but i found out another thing too. that the stacionary gears bearings are worn out at lease the front one, i dont know the rear one yet but i gess are the same. anyway im getting new bearing and new needle bearings and the spacer and some others things so im gonna be buzzy for a while https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/dry.png ohh well thanks guys

Be careful in how you re-assemble the front cover stuff, especially the flat thrust washer -> it is not entirely flat. The center of the washer is beveled (angled) to match the curvature of the edge of the eccentric shaft just past the front stationary gear bearing journal. If the washer is installed backwards, it will zero out the end-to-end play on the crankshaft (it'll be super tight) and eventually tear itself apart.



Thrust Washer Pictures -- Notice the angular bevelling in the center

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/1...rustWasher.Jpg



http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/1...herUpClose.Jpg



http://bdc.cyberosity.com/pictures/1...rInstalled.Jpg



B

yeah i saw that, i can see it how it goes from the old one, the rollers of the bearing is marked in it so i wont have problme with it. thanks for the info

You bet. Good luck with the re-assembly,



B

Thxs for the pictures.

i have a question, can i change the bearings of the stacionary gears my self or i have to take it to a machine shop for that?

yep

Heck of a reply ya got there, eh. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



On changing the bearing, yes you can do it yourself but you'll need the gear bearing tool as well as atleast a 6-ton shop (hydraulic) press.



B

good point, isn't that bearing tool like $200?

ohh well i just take it to a machine shop to doit. thanks for the help

93BlackFD Posted on Jan 5 2004, 05:41 PM

yep

This info can get kinda scary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png . My suggestion go to a machine shop, if anything goes wrong they have to correct it, no cost to you.

93BlackFD Posted on Jan 5 2004, 05:41 PM

yep

This info can get kinda scary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png . My suggestion go to a machine shop, if anything goes wrong they have to correct it, no cost to you.

Sorry my BOO BOO. Was on my cell. Talk about a guy who cant walk and chew gum at the same time https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png .

another question, whats the difference betwen the regular needle bearing and the competicion ones that mazdatrix offer? and somebody have use the competicion one before? i just order the competicion ones because they are the same price as the stock one

I can't tell from the pic, does the curve part go in facing the engine or out, facing away?

The curved part goes on the end of the crankshaft; flat part faces away. Look closely at the crankshaft; it's beveled and angled towards the front end of it just past the front stationary gear bearing journal. The thrust washer matches that.



B

Great thread guys, but chances are who ever built that motor installed that spacer wrong thats why you had that problem. He probably got it caught on top of the roller bearings and not under or between the bearing and the E-shaft as it should be.

PK797 NYC

like i said on the tread, it was my fault, im the one it put the spacer and i didnt knew that there was another bearing there because i was looking at the wrong picture in the hayes book. but at lease i caugt it on time and i caught the worn out stacionary gear bearing bad on time too