im going to be puting my repu motor together soon and i was thinking about putting it on the bottle latter on and i was wondering if any one had some advice for me befor i asemble the motor.

here is what i got

gsl-se rotors, and housings

s5 6pt irons

rotary avation ra classic apex seals

atkins dual 3mm apex seal springs.



here is a pic of the seconday port

would have stayed with 2mm seals man, they seal better and are way more forgiving on the rotor housings. 3mm seals eat rotor housings man. this is a 12a housing with 3mm seals, both rotor housings look like this and no the seals are not broken.

gls-se rotor come from mazda with 3mm, and those are the only good useable rotors i have right now.

solid 3mm corner seals, 3rd gen. corner seal springs.. and when ever you start using and tunning nitrous, start with the lowest hp available. I would suggest a 50 shot. and work your way up carefully. Nitrous is non forgivin....



I forgot to add. replace your rear oil pressure regulator with a 3rd gen 110 to 125psi. and the timing cover oil pressure release spring with a 3rd gen. also.

cool, i forgot to add that i alredy have solid corner buttons, fd coroner button springs, race side seal springs (ones with white on them), 12A oil control rings springs.



as far as oil pressure regulators, could i get away with just shiming them? or is it not a good idea to shim, just to let everyone know im on a fairly tight budght for this build because the truck requires so much stuff at this time because it has not ran since 1986.

You can't sacrifice quality for low price. It will work better if you get a new one.



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you can hit the stock oil psi reg with a hammer and flaten it... it will get your oil psi up to 90+ depending on how much you flaten it...

Or you can use a press.

is their any visual way of telling the differance between the serious as far as the regulator, we have a box of used one in the shop but i dont know how to tell the differance between them