what do i need to do to keep the engine together at 9k? the gears on the tranny are to wide so on some corners i can bog 3rd or rev the piss out of 2nd. what do i need to do to keep the motor together over 8500rpms for long periods?



mike

uh, I don't really know.. But aren't you supposed to have extra dowel pins installed, and torque the engine down like up to 35 lb. ft of torque..

oh yeah and stiffer springs for the Apex seals..

so far the stock reman has held up, i should say that its getting spun way over where the tach stops anyway



mike

Another thing you'll need is hardened stationary gears and rotor clearencing.

yeah, i was thinking about that



mike

I picked henrys brain over @ mazdatrix when I was ordering my parts to build my NA



what I've found is needed is...



increased oil pressure

cleareanced rotors

hardened stationary gears

uprated apex seal springs (and either carbon or ceramic apex seals so it doesnt eat the housing up)

he also mentioned they have their eccentric shafts machined for a larger clearance for the rotor bearings, I think it was .040" that he said, but I may not remember correctly

balanced rotating assembly

lightened rotors will help but arent required

and ports to flow enough for that rpm, coupled with intake and exhaust of course.

another thing is the two piece eccentric shaft that adds a roller bearing on the intermediate housing which is helpful to reduce flex.

oh and the rotor gears should be retained w/clip or something to keep them from walking out.





I think my next motor will be a >10k rpm NA, but I want to go crazy and use the aluminum side and intermediate housings from RB and ceramic apex seals. It would be nice to drop all that weight from the motor by replacing the iron housings with aluminum, mmm.

yah that would be cool. good stuff



mike

Man I run my engines at 10,500 to 11,000 rpm and I don't have half of that info. posted here from mazdatrix. Mike what excatly is your question? are you looking for a tranny gear combo to keep your engine at 9000rpm on every gear shift?? or engine reliability at 9000rpm?

I think he just wants to take it their reliably to 9k. No one mentioned a clutch shatter sheild.

i either need a closer gears, or and engine that will stay together at high revs, for long periods of time



mike

what about a shorter rear end ratio..would that help..i seen to have the same issue..in 2-3rd gear corners....either bog or hear the buzzer



4.30's from the GTUs(or racingBeat)

Yeah I've heard of people running them higher without this stuff, it's just what they recommended.. alot of it apparently can be skipped at the cost of reliability/longevity...

Why not run a 12a tranny in your SE?I hear the gears are shorter.

I'm not 100% on it tho.Does anybody know? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

Basicly you just need to get rid of the fuel cut, and put in some good apex seals and you should be fine.. I wouldn't increase the rotor bearing clearance however, this would just give the rotor more room to move around and if you do get a little bit of e-shaft flex the tips of the rotors will touch the housings. Then you'll have stuck corner seals and side seals. I would also run the FD oil pump and put 200cc jets in the e-shaft to keep the rotors a little cooler under the extended high rpm stuff to help get rid of predetonation due to hot spots. It would also be a good idea to maybe run water injection as well..



I run my car to 9500-10000 often with no problems, but not for extended amounts of time...

hmm, cool. the car is na so i dont have fuel cut, but bigger pump and e shaft jets i can do



mike

9k and reliable would be fun. :smirk:

yup

Isn't there some sort of fuel cut built into the ecu to keep you from overrevving the engine?

not on an 84-85 https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



mike

Sweet https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

i used to rev my old GTU to 8400rpm daily :smirk:

all along i thought you guys were talking about the 20b.

nah, that thing has a hard time getting over 6500...



mike

is this the stock rev limiter on the gsl or did u **** with it?

there is no rev limiter in the 1st gens



mike

:bigok:

Really? I always dreamed of a 12,000rpm peri port 20b. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

well a peri porto might spin like that, but the stock ports wont



mike

I'm assuming all motor?Most people don't want 20B's with a turbo.I don't get that.It came stock with a turbo.It just needs a bigger one. :smirk:

yeah, the stock ports and turbos peak at 6200, after that its like falling off a cliff. i have dyno sheets to prove it too



mike

Oh I want a 20b with a turbo too! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/devil.gif

Who doesn't?I want a 20B turbo FB with a T04R to back it up. :twisted:

I've heard the japanese don't... they seem to be the hot ticket here but not there hah, why is that not surprising? The country of the SBC and BBC has even rotary entusiasts craving the rotary 'big displacement' equivalent... think about that next time you knock one of those v8 guys.

in a 1st gen a turbo 3 rotor would be nuts



mike

I don't argue that at all https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



an LS1 in a 1st gen would be nuts too.

I don't argue that at all https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



an LS1 in a 1st gen would be nuts too. [/quote]

I won't argue mikes statement but as for the LS1 FB.Keep those 8's in thier cars and not in the lightwieght that were built to handle as well as go straight.The rotary has the advantage of lightwieght.I'm still thinking of a 20B turbo swap starting next winter tho.I just need another FB to dump it in to. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

You know thats interesting and reminds me of a funny story in my 82 gsl. One day when pulling out of my driveway it felt like the throttle was sticking. When I took my foot off the gas the car didn't slow down, so I braked and then sped up again. Same thing happened, car didn't slow down. Then I put the clutch in and the tach just pegged itself! I was like wtf is up. I tried pumping the gas pedal and it didn't do anything. My poor motor was spinning like crazy. So I coasted to the shoulder and contemplated shutting it down, but I didn't want to do that. I then realized that when the brake was depressed the rpms would drop, but would shoot back up again when it was in neutral. Finally after having the engine pegged for like 15 seconds I realized the ******* cruise button had been flicked on. I never use cruise and must have bumped it on accident. Anyways it was kinda funny and after that the car ran great. :bigok:

haha, thats funny. every morning i pull out onto the main road, and i only go a short way, and i should shift to third, but its more fun to keep it in second and see how many rpms i can hit, before i turn in https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



mike