Hi ppl,



Just got good used houisngs and started the rebuild with my mechanic.... this is our first rotary rebuild.. we r following the manual and Bruce turrentines rebuild video...



The problem is that we r using Rotary aviation 2 piece seals... When we install the first rotor and then lift the eccentric shaft 1 inch to slide the intermediate housing in.. the corner piece of the apex seal pops off... sometimes from one at times from more apex seals... and sometimes its a pain to look for them...



In thev video i noticed that the 3 piece seals that bruce used slid into each other.. what do i do with these two piece seals... Do i need to glue them together.... Its very frustrating...



Please help... I am still on the front rotor.. Will go there in the morning.. Please reply Soon



Also all the corner pieces are supposed to face towards the flywheel right... My mechanic thinks otherwise.. can that be.. i am skeptical cuz in the video it clearly says that all corner pieces apex seals are supposed to face the flywheel...



Please help urgent....

Superglue is your friend.



Yes, triangle assist piece is normally toward the rear of the rotor (housing).

Check the rotor housing for the groove that the tip normally creates.





-Ted

Can i do that... Won't it give up with heat and then maybe its particles can create some trouble in the housings... just an assumption... i am a frist time rebuilder.. If this is too stupid a question... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I would love to use super glue thats the easiest way...



thanks

I've always used stock three piece seals, but my motto (when putting an engine back together) is that you can never use too much vaseline. Enough petroleum jelly in the grooves always holds everything in fine for me.

if u put the corner pieces on last before slidign on the middle houing then u can just have the lightly popped up and when the housing goes down they will align themselves, so glue is not neccissary, but as a first time rebuild you might want to puer glue them. they will stay together untill u first crank the motor and then they will break appart and work as they were intended to be.

Tried it did not work... still pops off... The corner seal of the apex seal...



Am thinking of using super glue now....Should i.. People are telling me that it is ok...

do not press teh corner pieces in because they WILL pop off when th erotor moves aroudn while u ar eputtign in the eshaft and the middle iron, also you have do this procedure very slowly and take your time.

remember the first time you did apex seals........



Super glue is ok to use, but like karen said take your time and be patient. It is very frustrating untill you get the hang of it.

Use Superglue. Yes it will come apart once the engine is fired up, but the glue isn't there to hold the seals together....just hold the seals together while rebuilding.

If you buy Mazda 2 piece seals they are glued together for you already https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif



Just glue them and be done with it.

The super glue is there only for assembly.

It breaks soon after you complete the rebuild.

Some of them break when you crank the engine over by hand for the first time.

It's a bit unnerving when you hear the *tink* when the super glue bonds break. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png





-Ted

So true!

when using 2 piece seals I did what kahren said.



I didn't have any problem that way. Work really good and 2 piece ended up being A LOT easier than 3 piece b/c of that.

Thanks a million guys... Used very little superglue.. it worked very well for me... Installation became very easy.. Thanks



Ok one more question..The first rotor is supposed to go in one apex seal facing twelve o'clock... i did that... then after the intermediate housing the eccentric shaft has to be moved to the six o'clock position and then the rotor has to be installed in the six o'clock position...



I do remember that the second rotors one apex seal was facing the six o'clock position but i do not remember if the eccentric shaft was moved to the six o'clock position... Can that happen.. I mean is it possible that the rotor was facing 6 o'clock but the eccentric shaft was not... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif I have a doubt because i had to reopen the housing so many times because of the seals poping off.. My mechanic is sure we did it...



I am thinking of taking off the side housing and confirming...



Have checked the compression on the stand.. In three complete rotations it does make 6 strokes or chubs.. Is that an indication that everything is ok inside??



Thanks for all you help guys.. really really appreciate it..

You pretty much cannot install the rotor 'wrong' especially the rear one, after you've done the front (obviously).

So long as you didn't _force_ it in i'm sure it's fine.



And yes so long as there is 6 even(!!) pulses it sounds like its good. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

thanks White_Fc .. i was sooo scared.. we did not force the rotor in..



Also it is giving 6 good pulses does that mean that the car would start ok once the engine is installed....



Sorry for silly questions.. First time rebuild...

Basically no, it doesn't mean it will start right off the bat.



I know mine didn't, I had to tow start mine...

Now after 50kms on it it starts first crank just about and runs perfect.



Just make sure your timing is spot on before trying to crank it forever https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



And if worst comes to worst just tow start it.

here is a pic

Ok guys.. thanks alot for the info



The engine is in the car.. just put it in today... but the problem is that it does not start...



if i keep cranking at times it seems likes it tries to fire up but does not....



The same happened when i installed my last engine.. the only thing is last time i did not rebuild it...



Please tell me what to do... is this normal...



last time i let it sit for a night and the next morning it fired up...



Please help....

check air, spark, fuel, timing, then push start...

THe plugs may have gotten fouled. Take them out and clean them. Check for spark first, make sure you are gettings spark and make sure you are getting fuel.



I've seen guys put the car in 2/3rd gear with the ignition on and then pull start it. That has never failed, even with fouled plugs it works.



Anthony

Ok i took off all the plugs and took out the egi relay... then cranked the car to check compression by placing my hand over the leading plug holes.... There is compression and it is not bad in both the rotors....



Why would'nt it start https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif



Will try push starting it tonite

Sorry if this seems remedial but it is well worth the checklist.



1. check for spark (if you have spark go to step 3)

2. if no spark check coil packs, ignitors, CAS, etc

3. check wires for correct connection, check timing marks etc

4. check for fuel delivery (plugs wet?, if not check for pressure at fuel rail).

5. If you have pressure at fuel rail but plugs are dry check injectors and wiring from ecu to injectors (try noid lights).

6. Make sure intake air is getting to manifold.



BTW you mention that compression is OK, what are your readings

I hear the RA seals will have low compression to start with...making intial cranking hard.



Sorry for no input...good luck and keep posting.

Hi Guys,



Its alive....



after some cranking it fired up and is running ok now.. i think... flames cud be seen inside the exhaust after some intervals... so i uninstalled the just installed mid pipe and put on my cat convertor and everything seems great..



There seems to be more exhaust pressure out of the exhaust compared to my old engine... This is good right... I mean more pressure air coming out of exhuast equal more power or am i wrong....



Thanks alot guys for all your help...

good work! flames aren't bad https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png or was this at idle?



I've read numerous threads on break in (RA seals) periods...



which method did you decide?

also did you use solid corner seals too?

I need to know how to give it a proper run-in... I can't wait to floor it but at some posts in the forum i have read that i need to run it in for about 3000 miles...

I'll need lots of control not to drive it fast before that..



Also i read that there should be no boost for the first 500kms... how do i do that.. with the sequentials boost is diffcult to avoid... the max i hit was 1.5psi is that ok?



Also these are Rotary Aviation hard seals how do i run them in...



For the time being i have put up three fans infront of the car and have told my driver to let it idle for 20 mins and then turn it off and let it cool for an hour and then again start it up for 20mins.....Is this a good idea or does this have any bad effects.. I told him to keep an eye on the temps still.....



thanks a lot guys

interesting read



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=40493

Ok i have driven it 260 kms in 2 days... i need advice on the following break in procedure that i have come up with but am not sure of.. Please tell me if this would be wrong..



I drive the car for 1500 kms under 3000rpms

alongwith this i let it idle for 30 mins..5-6 times a day with an hourly interval and three fans on the engine with the hood open...







Ok this method i am contemplating because i am at work the whole day... and i can't wait to drive the car fast... 3000kms break-in period will take ages... will the above method be ok...



Is there any other convinient method...

My car was rebuild with Rotary Aviation master rebuild kit...