Heres the deal. My apex seals in my NA went. I need only the parts necessary top open it up and put new seals on both rotors and put it back together. i am so confused by all these diff sites, what is the cheapest i can do this for? I only have 500.00 i know its not enough but how close am i?

Can you reuse anything?? Springs? Side seals?



When mine chunked I thought about trying to save stuff but it just didn't seem like any of it could be saved so I chucked it all. Most the seals were busted anyway.



I don't think you can get a full rebuild kit for under $700. I thought you could get some kits for $800 or so, maybe less, from some of the shops.

you need to pull it apart and see what needs to be changed



mike

well it didnt like blow blow. It had a prob for a few months where u had to pull the inj fuse and crank it a few times then put the fuse in and she would fire right up. Its been sitting for years tho so i doubt i can save much.

If I were you, b4 I started I would buy the Atkins/Turrentine rebuild video, this will give you additional insite into whats needed

well the vid is just how to tear it down and whatnot rite? because we've tore rotaries down before.

You sure it is blown and not just leaky injectors or something? HAve you ATF'ed it and then compression tested it?

No i havent, its my dads word, he said hes pretty sure. Whats ATF'd? Can i use a regular compression tester? Tell me what im doing and i'll go do it : )

Ok:) ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid and rotary people like to use it to unstick their seals. Many times the apex seals will stick inside the rotor groove and create very little, if any, compression. When this happens you just need to put in some ATF through the plug holes and spin the engine. Take out the plugs, put a cap full of ATF in each chamber and slowly turn the engine by hand. Some will spit out and then you will put more in. Do this 4-5 times and see if that helps unstick things.



Once you have done that you can use a regular compression tester to see if you are getting even bounces. Just pull the pin out of the tester so it DOESN'T hold the reading and then give the car a crank. Make sure to pull the EGI fuse when you do this. You can also check the compression by ear:) You want even sounding pulses when you crank the engine. It will just whirr if there is no compression. You can hear it out the exhaust or you can pull the plugs and listen for the "whooshes".



-E

Ok, let me go do some slick talking and i'll be back.