Rotary Engine Building and Porting FAQ Section FAQ Area for Rotary Engine Building and Porting

What's Absolutely Necessary When Rebuilding?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-20-2003, 06:16 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
rx7tt95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
Default

I acquired a Cosmo motor to throw in my third gen temporarily until I have the three rotor plans in order and ready to execute. I wanted to experiment with the engine a bit just to see if and how well it work. I originally intended to slap it in unmodified. I became worried that it may have unseen internal problems (based on the experience of others).



Well I cracked her open today and it was mint inside. I really got lucky judging by others experiences. It was definitely a low mileage engine. Housings were perfect, side plates were mirror.



Anyway, to try and keep costs down I'm porting and assembling the motor myself. My main question is, what can I keep? I've decided to replace the apex seasl with Atkins (but I may now go back to Mazda OEM 2mm). How about the side seals? I've removed them and labeled them as per rotor and position so I can put them back where I found them. Anything else that I can keep? I'll be upgrading to a 3rd gen planetary gear while in there and upgrading to the Atkins side seal holders which are one piece and eliminate the piece of plastic in the inboard side. Anything else I should do while I'm in there? I'm actually rebuiding it at the local rotary shop and will be receiving their help in the rebuild. I'd just like to do it as inexpensively as possible without hurting reliability. TIA.
rx7tt95 is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 06:28 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

I would highly suggest replacing all the seals and their springs if you want good compression.

also the mazda factory apex seal are the best ones your gonna find. My .02
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 06:31 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
MAZDAROTARYPOWER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Jersey
Posts: 194
Default

i have heard the atkins apex seals are the best!
MAZDAROTARYPOWER is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 10:59 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Apex13B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,679
Default

from other people's opinion's around here i heard atkins OR mazda OEM are the way to go...depends who you ask..just dont get hurley..baddddd
Apex13B is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 11:30 PM
  #5  
Member
 
shift7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 68
Default

straight edge, feeler gauge, torque wrench, razor blade, carb cleaner, wire brush, and scotch brite. you might as well clean everything since it's already apart. get the atkins 2pc 2mm apex seals. you can keep the springs, side seals, and that other stuff. get new inner/outer oil rings (6 inner and 6 outer), 6 outer water jackets, 6 inner water jackets, new inner/outer oil seals, new o-rings, thermal pellet, hylomar, vasoline, tap-die set, and i can't really think of anything else you'll need. the bearings, washers, and needle bearings should all be good. do the webber 200cfm oil jet mod, you can pick those up at BAP imports. that's all i use to rebuild the engines (if they're as good as you say). have fun!
shift7 is offline  
Old 02-21-2003, 08:53 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
93 R1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,867
Default

What did the cosmo cost you?
93 R1 is offline  
Old 02-22-2003, 07:08 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Judge Ito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NJ USA
Posts: 1,915
Default

Originally Posted by shift7' date='Feb 21 2003, 05:30 AM
straight edge, feeler gauge, torque wrench, razor blade, carb cleaner, wire brush, and scotch brite. you might as well clean everything since it's already apart. get the atkins 2pc 2mm apex seals. you can keep the springs, side seals, and that other stuff. get new inner/outer oil rings (6 inner and 6 outer), 6 outer water jackets, 6 inner water jackets, new inner/outer oil seals, new o-rings, thermal pellet, hylomar, vasoline, tap-die set, and i can't really think of anything else you'll need. the bearings, washers, and needle bearings should all be good. do the webber 200cfm oil jet mod, you can pick those up at BAP imports. that's all i use to rebuild the engines (if they're as good as you say). have fun!
6 inner and 6 outer oil rings?? he needs 4 inner and 4 outer oil rings. I think he has a 13B Cosmo engine not a 20B Cosmo engine..





If your going to rebuild this engine I would agree with FD3boost.... every single seal is mandatory for good compression and reliability. Atkins apex seals work, but stock Mazda 2mm seals are better. Make sure you use a nice Micro-meter and the necessary gauges and tools to mic and clearance every single part. From your engine bearings to your seal clearances to the wear on the side housings, to the width on the rotor housings, to the end-play on the flywheel.
Judge Ito is offline  
Old 02-22-2003, 05:29 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Feb 22 2003, 05:08 AM
6 inner and 6 outer oil rings?? he needs 4 inner and 4 outer oil rings. I think he has a 13B Cosmo engine not a 20B Cosmo engine..





If your going to rebuild this engine I would agree with FD3boost.... every single seal is mandatory for good compression and reliability. Atkins apex seals work, but stock Mazda 2mm seals are better. Make sure you use a nice Micro-meter and the necessary gauges and tools to mic and clearance every single part. From your engine bearings to your seal clearances to the wear on the side housings, to the width on the rotor housings, to the end-play on the flywheel.
Arghhh, Ito how do you do all that measuring.. It's enough to make your eyes pop out.
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 02-22-2003, 05:41 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
setzep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 911
Default

How do you plan on porting the stock "D" exhaust ports? Or will you replace them with FD/FC ones?
setzep is offline  
Old 02-22-2003, 09:15 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
rx7tt95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
Default

Well that's the big question....Check out the porting thread. Setzep, since you have an RE, what did you do? Isn't it possible just to remove a bunch of the material as you would with the FD's exhaust sleeves? Ito? What would you recommend?



Yes, it's a 2 rotor, not a three. Cost was $1600 with shipping.



If porting the exhaust sleeves isn't an option, I guess I'll replace them with FD sleeves. I've also heard there are some custom sleeves available out there as well but I haven't had a chance to do any searches for them yet.



I've pretty much decided to replace all the seals except for the side seals. If the side seals turn out to be inexpensive then I'll probably replace those too. There was soooo little internal wear on this engine though.
rx7tt95 is offline  


Quick Reply: What's Absolutely Necessary When Rebuilding?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:19 PM.