Did you guys ever re-cadminum plate your tension bolts?
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I believe if you are going to use those stock T bolts, use them once and replace.
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Agreed, unless you like coolant leaks.
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we did it for the race car, oOoo shiny. i dont think the inside of the engine cares weather the bolt looks good or not
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Out of curiousity whats the cost on that?
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' post='778735' date='Nov 15 2005, 08:01 PM
Out of curiousity whats the cost on that? its like powder coating, they do it by the pound. that was something that paul had had done a couple years ago. it really does look nice to redo all the little bolts and brackets and stuff, in the gold cad |
What is it supposed to do to the bolt? Just make it shiney?
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='778858' date='Nov 16 2005, 08:37 AM
What is it supposed to do to the bolt? Just make it shiney? yep. you know how if you order a new bolt its that shiney gold color? |
So everyone here who rebuilds their motor replaces even single tension bolt?
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I think of it like a cylinder head, or a flywheel, I wouldnt dare reuse bolts on one.
Torque isnt too high for them, so i guess you could reuse them. But I wouldnt, new bolts are cheaper than another rebuild. |
how much are new bolts?
kevin. |
Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='778874' date='Nov 16 2005, 09:49 AM
So everyone here who rebuilds their motor replaces even single tension bolt? ive never seen a new tension bolt |
Originally Posted by teknics' post='778931' date='Nov 16 2005, 12:23 PM
how much are new bolts? kevin. they list for 18.95 x 17 and 22.35 for the long one |
i've never used new t-bolts, partially because nobody has ever wanted to pay for them.
i've never had a tension bolt-related failure on any motor i've ever built. a few have even put 430+ to the ground. |
How about the Stationaries, oil pump, pickup tube, oil pan, studs, motor mounts, water pump, or manifold nut & bolts? Who uses new ones, or just reuses them... and why?
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Originally Posted by guitarjunkie28' post='779409' date='Nov 17 2005, 04:37 PM
i've never used new t-bolts, partially because nobody has ever wanted to pay for them. i've never had a tension bolt-related failure on any motor i've ever built. a few have even put 430+ to the ground. gtus kevin (rarestrx) broke a couple |
Originally Posted by Newguy707' post='779466' date='Nov 17 2005, 06:23 PM
How about the Stationaries, oil pump, pickup tube, oil pan, studs, motor mounts, water pump, or manifold nut & bolts? Who uses new ones, or just reuses them... and why? none of it is really under much stress, ive replaced most here and there, but mostly cause the old ones arent shiney, and they are usually cheap |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='779503' date='Nov 17 2005, 09:10 PM
gtus kevin (rarestrx) broke a couple what kinda power was he putting out. more importantly, how fast was he spinning the motor? |
I got new stats just cause the S4s arent hardened. RB hardened stats and new bolts for em. Everythine else is accesible on the outside of the engine
Im probably overreacting with the new bolt thing. But using old bolts that have been through 18 years of heat cycles makes me uncomfortable about reusing them. |
Originally Posted by guitarjunkie28' post='779506' date='Nov 17 2005, 09:14 PM
what kinda power was he putting out. more importantly, how fast was he spinning the motor? oh come on you know the car, stock s5 gtus with about 160rwhp, stock redline |
cant find the thread i'm looing for, but read http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...9&page=3&pp=15
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='779642' date='Nov 18 2005, 10:08 AM
Im probably overreacting with the new bolt thing. But using old bolts that have been through 18 years of heat cycles makes me uncomfortable about reusing them. Are you worried about the rest of the bolts in the car? There are lots of other things that have been through those same heat cycles. One way to look at it is that if the bolt has never been overtightened and thereby stretched out of shape, it should last indefinitely. They have already been proven in use, although some simple nondestructive testing beyond a simple length check isn't a bad idea if you're really over-toilettrained. New bolts, on the other hand, are an unknown factor. One tech writer I know likes to say that NEW means Never Ever Worked, and this is true for bolts as well. Best to do some NDT on new bolts, or get certified bolts that get NDT as a matter of course, otherwise you are actually inducing more risk than using the old bolts. Modern engines are assembled with bolts that are specified to be overtightened (torque-to-yield) which is why you must replace the bolts for a shocking number of services nowadays. Older engines aren't. I've built engines from 40 year old cores and reused the stock bolts. |
I just took the bolts out of my engine and they are still shiney. So it looks like i may not need to re-plate them. I'm considering doing the dye/lamp to look for cracks. The motor I just opened up is absoltely mint. It's a S5TII jspec I bougth off someone who was quiting the rx7 scene. paid 200 cdn for the keg. It has brand new housings, plates the works. You don't even see wear on the housings... wowsers... all the bolts so far are cad plated shiney still.
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Originally Posted by heretic' post='779760' date='Nov 18 2005, 09:40 PM
One way to look at it is that if the bolt has never been overtightened and thereby stretched out of shape, it should last indefinitely. They have already been proven in use, although some simple nondestructive testing beyond a simple length check isn't a bad idea if you're really over-toilettrained. But I must admit, in the grand scheme of things, it still seems better to just put new bolts into the more critical parts. I just cant help but think about those people finding main bearing soup in their oil, or developing a coolant leak 6 months down the line and not knowing why. Words like "it should last" dont comfort me. Cheers: What a steal, i need to find someone quitting the rotary. |
Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='780030' date='Nov 19 2005, 07:48 PM
Well thats a great idea. How long should my tention bolts be? How about my stat gear bolts? I'll check em right now... Just check them against each other. If one bolt is stretched, it's highly unlikely that they would all be damaged the same. If they are all close to identical they are okay. Given that bolts usually fail at the threads, and that the realities of mass production mean that no two bolts will actually be identical in length, a better check might be to just check the bolt threads against each other. But I must admit, in the grand scheme of things, it still seems better to just put new bolts into the more critical parts. Assuming that you know that the new bolts are any good, which you don't unless you have them checked out, like Magnafluxing or X-raying. |
Originally Posted by heretic' post='780040' date='Nov 19 2005, 11:50 PM
Just check them against each other. If one bolt is stretched, it's highly unlikely that they would all be damaged the same. If they are all close to identical they are okay. Given that bolts usually fail at the threads, and that the realities of mass production mean that no two bolts will actually be identical in length, a better check might be to just check the bolt threads against each other. |
Is it true Pettit Racing torques some of their stock-bolted engines to 50 lbs? I just read that in an old thread the other day, and I can't get it off my mind...
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='779737' date='Nov 18 2005, 03:53 PM
oh come on you know the car, stock s5 gtus with about 160rwhp, stock redline forgive me if i wasn't familiar with one guys car out of the many thousands. interesting though. |
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